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BobW

TVWBB Fan
CL find tonight. Can't tell if it's a Silver A or a Spirit 500. Mica green hood, stainless grates, stainless bars. Burners, grates, ignitor box and bars all in top condition. After disassembly only appears to need several plastic end caps for the frame. Got it for $20. A project for the weekend place. Some elbow grease and paint should be all this one needs!! guy had gotten a great big box store special and had to get this out of his yard. i was glad to oblige. The first pic is from the CL ad. Came with the original cover as well, but its pretty beat up.
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Any tips for cleaning the plastic parts? first one I've done with plastic, the other 2 were wood trim.
 
I'm thinking it's a Spirit with a Silver lid because I don't think the Silvers ever came with that old-style tank scale.

Regardless, that's a nice pickup for $20.

I have the Durawood handle and the side table if you're interested.

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Yah, Good deal on that one. Especially if all the internals are good as you say they are.. Looking forward to some AFTER pictures.
 
BobW said:
Any tips for cleaning the plastic parts? first one I've done with plastic, the other 2 were wood trim.
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On my knobs and the white plastic weber wheel inserts I did a solution of half bleach and half water not my idea someone else came up with, let them soak overnight and looked like new.

Wondering if you sprayed them down with simple green cleaned them with a rag the best you can and my wife has all these plastic bins stores the Christmas lights think that would be big enough for the table piece and handle. You could use the half and half and let them soak overnight then use a nylon brush for anything that did not come clean. Saw that idea here I think somewhere.

Rub them down with 303 protectant and you would be good.

Brian
 
That is a great find! I am partial to the green since I have had one since 2001! Looks like it is in really good shape already. I double down on Brian B's comments re:the plastic we have been talking about this over on my restore thread and that should work well!

Looking forward to the finished product!
 
Thanks I used the bleach and water on the knobs the last couple restores and every year to brighten them up. Was wondering about the table and handle. I'll try some degreaser first
 
Bob, try the 303 on the knobs instead of bleaching them every year you can do it once a month or whatever it should protect them enough.

Brian
 
JKim in MA said:
I'm thinking it's a Spirit with a Silver lid because I don't think the Silvers ever came with that old-style tank scale.

Regardless, that's a nice pickup for $20.

I have the Durawood handle and the side table if you're interested.

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JK can't thank you enough for that offer. I'm going to try and make a go with what's on here already even though the shelf has a melted edge on it. I'll post more pics as this progresses. Should have it done by the end of the week
 
So the restoration begins. found the standard frozen bolt in the left side, and a bit of cancer there in the frame that wasn't evident until the box was removed.
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always been an advocate of penetrating oil and heat to coax the frozen bolt out but this one was very stubborn, and i grew impatient so over to the drill press and 10 mins later all was right with the world again.
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a little work with the grinder and my evening was done. more to come.
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Yah, looks like you have a good start and lot of work ahead of you. Don't be surprised if those screws holding the two aluminum drip pan rails have to be drilled out. Good to try some penetrating oil, but they can get pretty frozen in. Good luck.
 
Yeah Bruce those screws are scary. Have always left them alone. The rails are in good shape so I'll keep those in place. That's one of the things I check when looking at a prospect for restoration
 
I don't really worry too much about them. As long as the rails are in decent shape, I just twist off the screws and the drill them out if they won't come out with a little coaxing. It just adds a little work to the project is all.

I always pull the rails off in order to be able to fully clean the cook box with an angle grinder and wire brush.
 
On my Gold C I didn't take the rails off either, I just cleaned around them as best as I could and made sure there wasn't any build up in the way so the tray would slide easily. I have another one I am about to start that the rail is broken so I WILL be getting into that soon!
 
Upon further reflection, maybe I will just start doing that on my rehab projects. The bottom of the cook box doesn't really matter that much and you really don't see it anyway. So, maybe cutting off the screws and redrilling is something that is really necessary and a little overboard. I love the varying opinions and suggestions that come from this forum.
 
I actually got my rail screws off 2 of the posts has holes in them which is probably why those 2 came out so easy, used quiksteel around the posts did not fill them in like Jeff did but of course some got in the screw holes which was good I did wrap that quiksteel at least a half inch past the repair did not even bother to sand them. My rails were in decent shape but where the grease trey slides in it was bumpy on the rails due to the rust over the years. I took my flat file got the high points off, then I took a metal putty knife using JB and skim coated them to fill in the low points kind of like if you have ever touched up sheet rock screws then I flat filed them again nice and smooth could have used another coat to make it perfectly flat but did not bother.

Since the quiksteel is epoxy I just started new screws in the post holes and they threaded themselves I did spray the rails with the high heat ultra.

Brian
 
Let me add that it took multiple applications of PB Blaster to get them out I would usually let that sit overnight then hit them again then try to move them if they moved hit them again I was in no hurry. One screw actually stuck to the rail I just turned it in place the whole rail and it came out, sprayed the bottom of that screw with PB blaster let it sit overnight it came out. I could not find the rail screws in Ace meaning stainless, they are #12 by 1/2 inch found them in zinc home depot in the bags put them in my trusty 2x4 which I use to paint screws meaning a bunch of holes so they will stand up sprayed them with a few coats of ultra used anti-seize when I put them in they ain't coming out again I hope.

Brian
 
painting and cleaning done. re-assembly tomorrow. the emblem will take a bit to sand after painting. but everything else should go back together quite nicely with some stainless steel screws. this the third that i have restored is so far the easiest and cheapest as the only parts I had to get were push nuts for the wheels and emblem. Couple of stainless bolts/screws, and some tubing end caps. that and paint was all this one took.
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Why don't you remove the lid end caps to paint them. It is a lot easier?

Did you strip them before painting them, or did you just clean them up and paint over the old paint?

Good job and a cheap rebuild should get you a good profit margin on the flip.
 
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