2003 Weber Genesis Gold C - (339001) - NG -> LP Conversion


 
B

BHeemsoth

New member
I got a great deal on an excellent condition 2003 Genesis Gold C for $25. The firebox, frame, and replaceable parts are all in very good shape. The catch is that the grill is setup for NG, and I only have LP available.

I have read conflicting reports - some saying that I only need to purchase new orifices, and others that I need to replace the manifolds, as the valves themselves are different. I also read that some older models had variable valves that would not require replacement, and in such cases I could get by with just purchasing valves and properly drilled orifices. Does anyone know if the Genesis Gold C grills of this vintage may have leveraged these variable valves? If not, I will begin looking to source a manifold somewhere.

Thanks in advance!
Brian
 
Brian, here is the skinny on it. If your valves have 3 settings (low/med/high) than simply changing out orifices will NOT work properly. The trouble here is unless you actually take the valve(s) apart you may not know as after years of service the detents get worn and you cannot feel them. So follow these instructions which Chris was so kind to translate from my written into a full blown step by step. http://virtualwebergasgrill.com/2017/05/cleaning-lubricating-weber-gas-grill-valves/#more-2000 If you take a valve apart and it looks like what he has pictured a simple orifice change (either way NG to LP or LP to NG) will NOT work properly and could even constitute safety hazards. To do it PROPERLY (not like some idiot on YouTube might think) you will need a full manifold for the fuel type you want. With careful shopping and scrounging it should not be too hard to come up with it. Another solution is maybe to run a gas line to it and enjoy the fact you'll never again have to run out of gas mid cook
 
Not the ones I have seen. This seemed to be hit or miss with Weber. I think it was whoever gave them the best quotes at any given production time. There is really no outward way to tell either. Last one I did with variable ones I did not realize they were until I opened a valve and discovered it.
 
Great news. It looks like I may have the continuously variable valves, based on my inspection (see pictures at link below).

https://imgur.com/a/1VHxI

I am struggling to make certain that I am ordering the correct orifices for the main burners and side burners. They measure about 9/32 in head diameter.

Edit: i think these may be the ones I need for both the burners and side burner? http://www.grill-repair.com/weber315orifice.html
 
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Hi all I am doing the same as BHeemsoth, except my grill is a 1996 genesis silver B. I checked my valves and they have 180 degree sweep and appear to have no detents at low med or high. You push the valve knob down and turn 90degrees to light it on Hugh position, according to instructions. This grill was seldom used and the valves move smoothly with no evidence of notchiness. I will disassemble one of the valves to examine the plug.

What exactly am I looking for to determine whether this is a variable or low, med & high valve ? I saw on the valve cleaning video that the preset temp valves have several different size holes and the variable that BHeesmoth shows in his pic has a small graduating to large slot going around the plug. If I see a similar slot then I assume this is a variable valve. In that case am I good to go and just can change the orifices ?
 
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Look at the images that are posted in BHeemsoth's post. If the valves don't look like this an orifice change only will NOT be sufficient to properly and SAFELY do a conversion. Just going by the feel is not enough to tell. Many times the detents are worn just enough to not feel them. My old Genesis and my dad's are like this. The valves work perfectly just the click stops are worn. Given the age of yours I doubt you have the correct valves to do this
 
Okay I pulled one of the valves apart - voila same valve plug as BHeemsoth. So i assume I can proceed to changing the orifices. My grill is rated at 36000 BTUs with three burners. I see the number drill sizes are not exact to 12,000 BTU's I assume I should go one size smaller at 59 ? Does all this sound right ?
 
BTW just for the record if you're going from NG to LP the only issue you will have (if you have the fixed orifice valves) is you will have very little if any changes in flame or temp from medium to low. Medium will be quite a lot hotter than you may like and low will be just a step higher than medium on a properly done grill. So actually the main issue will be one of lack of control not so much safety.
If you are going the opposite way LP to NG than you will have a safety issue because if you try to run the grill on low there will not be enough gas flow to totally propagate across the burners allowing unburned gas to accumulate under the lid. Very dangerous
 
Chuck Hanson said:
Okay I pulled one of the valves apart - voila same valve plug as BHeemsoth. So i assume I can proceed to changing the orifices. My grill is rated at 36000 BTUs with three burners. I see the number drill sizes are not exact to 12,000 BTU's I assume I should go one size smaller at 59 ? Does all this sound right ?
Click to expand...

It's the "safest" way. Honestly I have done them both ways (1 size smaller and one size up) I honestly cannot tell the difference. It's when you start going all "Tim the Toolman" on them that you can have a problem.
 
Excellent - now I will have to figure out what the thread is on these orifices, and ID the proper replacement. The hex head is 9/32".
 
Chuck Hanson said:
Excellent - now I will have to figure out what the thread is on these orifices, and ID the proper replacement. The hex head is 9/32".
Click to expand...

These are the ones I picked up for my grill + side burner - http://www.grill-repair.com/weber315orifice.html. That site will drill them if you purchase the regulator from them. The regulator is a few bucks more than Amazon, but the orifices are a comparable price and you save the hassle of drilling.
 
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My replacement orifices came in from Grill-Repair.com yesterday. $52 shipped including drilling for four orifices and a replacement hose/regulator. In total I have about $81 into this grill, including purchase of the grill itself, the orifices, hose/regulator, and replacement paint for the firebox. Thank you everyone for your help!
 
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BH- Thanks for the recommendations. I was going to go your route, but changed my mind. What I did to get the orifices etc was buy a beater propane weber grill for $30 with the same size burners. I salvaged the orifices and found them smaller than the btu rating chart. Which surprised me. The beater was an earlier style that used 5 flavorizers and then another 8 flavorizers above that. Maybe those used a smaller btu output. I could not read the weber part labels with the rating - it was worn off from age. I already had the correct size pin drills and gradually opened the size up to 0.041". With the junk grill I got the tank hanger, regulator, and a set of stainless grates. The beater has a green lid, which I tested and fits perfect on the keeper grill. So for about the same money as you I built a nice grill...I have yet to test it. Still have the old onward Huntington grill working until it dies. The weber is now stored in the garage for the winter. Thanks all for your help !
 
It's a shame the beater was in such lousy condition. The seller said one of the valves was stuck, and the other two would only open and allow a low flame. I suspect the grill was left without a tank on the regulator and spiders or bugs got in and plugged up the works. The polymer slat shelf surfaces and metal brackets were rusted and falling apart. However the flavorizers and the burners were serviceable. My buddy has a similar grill and he grabbed the extra parts for his. I took the square tube frame apart and may use it for a welding project. I don't plan on using the regulator. I will salvage the regulator off the onward grill when it dies. So what the scrapers got were the fire box, the regulator and a few slat panels. The rest will be used at some point. Recycling at its best.
 
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