Speed Nuts and End Cap bolts ?


 
K

KevinRH

New member
Hi,
I saw this post...

Endcap bolts
"I used Stainless 1/4" x 20 5/8" long tapered bolts.
Weber uses splined bolts with those thin "speed nuts" originally.
You can reuse the nuts if you want too." - Jeff MA
https://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?690...l=1#post762871

.....But I still have questions.

How do you get the old bolts out?
How do you reuse the old speed nuts? just turn them on?

thanks Kevin
 
Could not get 5 of mine off, there is a notch on those nuts turn them you will see then I took my angle grinder started on the notch and went all around them go easy they flare out on the side closest to the lid so go gentle you won't hurt the screws if you want to use them again.
 
Kevin a small angle grinder and cutoff wheel is about the only way. Then go ALL stainless steel and if you ever want to remove them again use Never Seize on them. Trying to save those stupid screws and nuts is total waste of good time after bad
 
LM I agree with you and a waste of time but I wanted to save the original screws I like the way they look obviously the nuts I trashed and bought stainless.
 
The couple I had problems with turning I took mt Dremel and cut a screwdriver slot in it and held it while I loosened the nuts. Most had the speed nuts that you could just pry off but my older brown lid had 1/4" nuts which made removal not at all fun.

Stainless steel is the only way to go.

Jeff
 
I have struggled with several of these lids with these kind of screws/nuts. I finally found a solution that doesn't require any destruction to the parts. First, spray with a penetrating oil like WD40 or Liquid Wrench, etc... Then let it sit for a half hour or so. Put a (i think 7/16") socket in a cordless drill and start unscrewing the nut. IT will come out slightly but then the bolt will start slipping. Putting finger pressure on the bolt doesn't usually help. So, I get a thin flat blade screw driver and wedge it under the slightly unscrewed nut. Then, while keeping pressure on the nut, I again try to unscrew the nut with the cordless drill. Usually it will come the rest of the way off if you keep pressure on the nut with the screw driver while unscrewing the nut. If not, preposition the screw driver making sure you are putting pressure under the nut and try unscrewing again. It may take another shot of penetrating oil, but I have yet to ruin a screw or nut since doing this. If, after initially trying to unscrew the nut it doesn't come off far enough to slip a thin flat head screw driver in, use the tip of a sharp chisel or other sharp thin tool to wedge in there enough to put pressure outwards on the nut.

I am not really sure why I go through the trouble however. I have since started just replacing the nuts and bolts with Stainless Steel bolts and nuts. I think it looks cool and it solves any issues with removing them later on.
 
Bruce said:
I have struggled with several of these lids with these kind of screws/nuts. I finally found a solution that doesn't require any destruction to the parts. First, spray with a penetrating oil like WD40 or Liquid Wrench, etc... Then let it sit for a half hour or so. Put a (i think 7/16") socket in a cordless drill and start unscrewing the nut. IT will come out slightly but then the bolt will start slipping. Putting finger pressure on the bolt doesn't usually help. So, I get a thin flat blade screw driver and wedge it under the slightly unscrewed nut. Then, while keeping pressure on the nut, I again try to unscrew the nut with the cordless drill. Usually it will come the rest of the way off if you keep pressure on the nut with the screw driver while unscrewing the nut. If not, preposition the screw driver making sure you are putting pressure under the nut and try unscrewing again. It may take another shot of penetrating oil, but I have yet to ruin a screw or nut since doing this. If, after initially trying to unscrew the nut it doesn't come off far enough to slip a thin flat head screw driver in, use the tip of a sharp chisel or other sharp thin tool to wedge in there enough to put pressure outwards on the nut.

I am not really sure why I go through the trouble however. I have since started just replacing the nuts and bolts with Stainless Steel bolts and nuts. I think it looks cool and it solves any issues with removing them later on.
Click to expand...

So... I took off all the nuts with a 7/16, painted the end caps and cleaned the hood middle piece and re-assembled.
Worked fine, lid is tight. Would never think it was going to work but the lid is tighter and better than it was.

Looks to be the studs are molded in the end cap?
Do you have to drill out those studs for those who are replacing with stainless?
Mine did not look like the were coming out with minimal effort.

thanks Kevin
 
Kevin,

If your end caps have molded studs, the recommendation to use 1/4" x 20 5/8" tapered bolts would not apply. The older grills like the Genesis 1,2,3,4, 1000, early Silvers had the splined bolts + speed nuts that can be a pain to remove sometimes (I managed to remove 9 out of 10 speed nuts this evening on a 1996 grill without any problems, though).

Weber sells an inexpensive kit that has all the speed nuts and 2 new lid clevis pins, p/n 80158: http://www.ereplacementparts.com/shroud-hardware-p-1476221.html
 
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