Treating rust on frame of Genesis 1000


 
B

BryanL

TVWBB Member
Ive been pouring over threads here on how to best refurbish my Redhead grill and i saw somewhere on sat about a rust treatment that hardens the rust and changes its composition. Yesterday when i was at the store i couldnt find it anywhere on the forums. Could y'all chime in and let me know what works best for treating rust on our grills. Thanks in advance. Pics of said products would be great.
 
Best stuff I have EVER found are 2 products available from Eastwood.com this one http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-ru...i-2YIYjEbD9LkdT5BYDwNMOkllDj-ynoaAgJ4EALw_wcB and another product they sell called POR15 the rust encapsulator has a hose available to get inside frame members. It's messy (both products) thick and "gloppy" but it works. I recommend using it over a tarp. I treated one of my cars with it and it dripped down on my concrete in the garage and it does not come off. Looks like black epoxy on the cement
 
That POR15 stuff is highly regarded for automotive rust protection if that helps in any way. The Eastwood stuff looks good too and I notice it says it is heat resistant up to 400 which is critical because the frame around the cook box is going to get pretty hot at times. It might even go above the 400 degree limit.
 
They actually sell a high heat version of the product though I don't think it's truly necessary. Really the 2 biggest issues are dissimilar metals causing galvanic corrosion (primary reason for the rust issue on the side with the bolt through the fire box) and moisture on the inside that does not evaporate
 
Thanks for the replies. I did find the other one i saw and it was VHT rust converter. Rustoleum had a rust treatment product but was only good to 200 degrees so i passed. i'm wondering if sanding it down and then just using the High heat paint from rustoleum would be enough to stop it?
 
I have tried other products like the Rustoleum rust converter. They are imitators. They don't hold a candle to the Eastwood or POR15 products. No comparison here. Buy the Eastwood or POR15 and you'll be glad you did
 
LMichaels said:
I have tried other products like the Rustoleum rust converter. They are imitators. They don't hold a candle to the Eastwood or POR15 products. No comparison here. Buy the Eastwood or POR15 and you'll be glad you did
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Is it in any retail stores?
 
Don't think so disagree with Larry a bit the Rusto converter I have used before good results the Eastwood is the best 3 times the price if your keeping the grill forever spend the money but depends on how bad the rust is only surface rust not sure I would go with the Eastwood I was doing some car stuff so needed it so I had it.

Brian
 
Brian B Atlanta said:
Don't think so disagree with Larry a bit the Rusto converter I have used before good results the Eastwood is the best 3 times the price if your keeping the grill forever spend the money but depends on how bad the rust is only surface rust not sure I would go with the Eastwood I was doing some car stuff so needed it so I had it.

Brian
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Most is surface rust. Was reading ratings on the Eastwoods and they said if you aren't putting on 100% rust (Some rust and some bare metal or paint) it will never dry. Hmmm.
 
BryanL said:
Most is surface rust. Was reading ratings on the Eastwoods and they said if you aren't putting on 100% rust (Some rust and some bare metal or paint) it will never dry. Hmmm.
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Not true. It dries. You can come look at my garage floor to prove it LOL. And it's like ceramic after it dries. I can't chisel the stuff off. Wish I could do the entire floor LOL
 
Bryan, tough it is. I just used some on the cross member where the firebox bolts to had to do some minor repair with quiksteel. It has a texture though just to warn you I got some on the top rail it was a spot repair so I need to sand that today.

For the other minor surface rust on a few places on the frame just used the rusto the rusto goes on like regular spray paint meaning smooth.
 
What rustoleum product did you use for the spot repairs. I have a can of Westwood on the way. I have the same issue where the cook box bolts to the frame which I plan to use it on. I also have with several other surface rust spots that I would consider the rustoleum product for.
 
I will back Lee up on this stuff is tough I used POR 15 on my 07 Genny lower cabinet and and it works great but you need to top coat it with a paint of the color you want as UV does hurt it.
I got a drop of this on my toe and took forever to scrub off days, this stuff was developed by the Navy and used on there ships to cover salt water rust it is real good, can be bought from you guessed it "AMAZON" i believe East woods to be of the same formula.
Messy but rust will not come back to the area protected i would do the hole frame as you will never have issues again.
 
Oh, crap, I hope this stuff isn't the crap they used to use on Army Equipment. They called it "CARC" or something like that. It was clearly marked with cancer causing warnings.
 
Bruce said:
What rustoleum product did you use for the spot repairs. I have a can of Westwood on the way. I have the same issue where the cook box bolts to the frame which I plan to use it on. I also have with several other surface rust spots that I would consider the rustoleum product for.
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Bruce I assume you meant Eastwood so I put some quicksteel on the right side at the top of the cross member sure you know what I mean it seams to separate there a bit with rust had not used it in a while great product. I sanded it with 320 today it sands fine had gotten some on the top. For the other rust minor surface used Rusto rust performer the Eastwood is kinda overkill for that but do what you want.
 
Bruce I did not use the por 15, I used the spray can of Eastwood rust encapsulator for the frame that meets the firebox just wanted to clarify if there is some confusion.
 
Yah, I am working on a grill with the problem rust at the mounting bolt for the cook box. I plan to use some JB weld high temp to shore it up and then the Westwood rust stuff on top of that, then some Rustoleum Ultra High temp to finish it up.

The brace is still strong, but since that area is prone to rust, I want to make sure it is good to go when I am done.

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Bruce I have an idea maybe a bad one but I think if it was me take the cup brush hit that rust. Then do the Eastwood over it so it solidifies the rust then JB weld then hit it with the ultra. This is what I did with mine my theory was make sure that rust was treated before anything over it.
 
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