Got my redhead to rebuild serial number says natural gas


 

Brian B Atlanta

TVWBB Gold Member
Well I need to go on the Weber site and check this it has a propane connection but something was weird about it there was no tank scale nor the decal the guy had gotten it from his mother in law so I take the control panel off and something weird about that also no screws in the side no plastic plug to put the screws in although I think in an old Weber manual they used plastic rivet plugs on some of them.

They always talk about 2 screws to remove it this has 3 square holes if you know what I mean maybe they only used 2 and had 3 were already there.

So maybe and just maybe they replaced the manifold so is there a part number I should look for on the manifold that would identify it as a propane manifold might account for the forgetting about the screws as they needed to remove it to put in the new manifold.

Model Number 310000, serial number EO182900, 35k BTU, Natural, Outlet Pressure 7 pounds for sure that was nat gas I think.

Brian
 
MODEL #: 311001DESCRIPTION: GENESIS 1000 NG BLK (USA) this is what I got when I put in the serial number and its red by the way so now I am really confused.
 
Brian,
I looked at several Weber's that were currently propane grills that were converted over from Natural Gas.

As long as they did it correctly either by replacing the orifices or replaced the complete Manifold you should be all set. The other thing that might of happened is the previous owner made one grill out of two and the frame used originally a NG model.

Jeff
 
Brian,
I looked at several Weber's that were currently propane grills that were converted over from Natural Gas.

As long as they did it correctly either by replacing the orifices or replaced the complete Manifold you should be all set. The other thing that might of happened is the previous owner made one grill out of two and the frame used originally a NG model.

Jeff the problem is how would you know that or take a chance I will try to see if if the manifold has a part number on it to see if they changed that out.

Thanks for the reply by the way.
 
I bought a Genesis Silver B that stated it was Natural Gas on the label, but indeed was propane. I have no idea if it was converted by a previous owner or not.
 
Bruce I think that is the problem so hopefully others will way in. Yes they could have put an LP reg on it but that does not mean they changed anything will see if the manifold has a part number if its not an LP manifold there is now way I am going to trust that someone else made the conversion. It was 40 bucks can use it for parts not the end of the world learning fast not sure the cost of the manifold is worth it wife's grill got to be safe but thanks for the input.

Brian
 
Back in the day dealers always mixed and matched parts. Heck they did it to my own to get the combo I wanted on both the Summit and the Genesis. Neither grill matches it's s/n. Sadly both dealers are out of business so getting proper parts through Weber is a challenge at best now.
 
"Back in the day", you could call Weber up and order a conversion kit directly from them or you could walk into your local Weber dealer and get it from them as well.

The way to check is to hook up a propane tank, remove the grates and flavorizer bars, fire the grill up and see how the flames look on high, medium and low. Trying to remember which way the conversion issues are. If the valves and/or the orifices are still for NG, they would have larger port openings so the flames should be fairly tall on high, and you won't notice much difference between medium and low. If they are about 1.5 to 2 inches on high, noticeably less on medium and very small on low, then it was probably a full manifold replacement.


As for the black vs red hood, Weber doesn't have every schematic for every single grill model they ever made. Basically, no need to have separate schematic for "GENESIS 1000 NG BLK" and "GENESIS 1000 NG RED" as every single piece on the two grills are identical except for the hood. Your actual model number would be slightly different, but it would be pretty close to 311001. Perhaps the last number changes to denote color difference, so your's might be a 311002 or something like that.
 
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I agree with DaveW, it should be easy enough to discern the "correctness" of the conversion by the flame size differences between High/Medium/Low.
 
Everything soaking with pb blaster now got some bolts coming out easy trying to take the manifold out tomorrow on the valves I see a product id or whatever of L264 I believe the correct model number for the Weber 1000 manifold was 56038 the natural gas was 56039 so we will see. It appears Weber and the other sites only sell the full manifold so when I get it out tomorrow hopefully that part number is somewhere.

Thanks everyone.
 
I agree with DaveW, it should be easy enough to discern the "correctness" of the conversion by the flame size differences between High/Medium/Low.

If a conversion is done correctly the flames whether on NG or LP should be identical. IOW a PROPER NG grill should have flames that look identical to a PROPER LP grill. Also with no reference point you'd never know
 
If a conversion is done correctly the flames whether on NG or LP should be identical. IOW a PROPER NG grill should have flames that look identical to a PROPER LP grill. Also with no reference point you'd never know


You lost me on this one.
 
You lost me on this one.

What L is saying even if you have an NG manifold and you hook it up to an LP tank and turn it on high unless you know what the flame pattern should look like or you have either a correct LP or NG grill to see what the correct pattern looks like you won't know if it's correct or not.
 
Interesting stuff I think anyway, called Weber they were great. Serial number came up as natural gas but it was registered as LP, they have another system guessing its the registration system that correctly identifies the grill I thought it was 1998 it was 1995 and the model number is 211001 not what the serial number info came up with when I typed it in. I asked him about the lack of the tank scale decal as well as the tank scale parts he said it was possible they made a model that did not have that no real way to know.

They will sell parts to me no problem I want that tank scale but like the newer one that Jeff did on the Platinum, so since I have nothing on the right side brackets or anything what would be the part numbers I need, he said they were still showing the middle piece and bracket in stock.

Working all day on this handle bolt won't come out on the left side, right one came out fine. Lid side pieces just spinning on 5 of them so stuck.
 
What L is saying even if you have an NG manifold and you hook it up to an LP tank and turn it on high unless you know what the flame pattern should look like or you have either a correct LP or NG grill to see what the correct pattern looks like you won't know if it's correct or not.

I came away with a different interpretation that's basically saying that flames on a "proper" NG grill and flames on a "proper" LP grill will be the same. "Proper" here would mean that the fuel source, valves and orifices are all sized and matched correctly. I concur.

In
this thread, what was thought to be a propane grill is actually a natural gas model with a propane regulator and hose. At question is whether a "proper" conversion was done, I. E. Was the entire manifold replaced.

It's my understanding that if you push propane through a NG ported manifold, the flames will be considerably higher across the low, medium and high spectrum and the grill will run quite hotter across all three. This has been talked about in just about all the threads where the question of conversion is involved.
 
I came away with a different interpretation that's basically saying that flames on a "proper" NG grill and flames on a "proper" LP grill will be the same. "Proper" here would mean that the fuel source, valves and orifices are all sized and matched correctly. I concur.

In
this thread, what was thought to be a propane grill is actually a natural gas model with a propane regulator and hose. At question is whether a "proper" conversion was done, I. E. Was the entire manifold replaced.

It's my understanding that if you push propane through a NG ported manifold, the flames will be considerably higher across the low, medium and high spectrum and the grill will run quite hotter across all three. This has been talked about in just about all the threads where the question of conversion is involved.

You are correct you will get very high flame compared to the correct manifold, if you have a solid blue flame about 1 1/2" high max you're probably good. Higher with a lot of red showing in the flame you need to investigate more.
 
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Yeah if you put an LP hose and regulator on a NG grill you'll have quite the flame thrower. Likewise if you stick NG hose on an LP grill it may only be able to muster a small flame on high. Additionally for both types Weber used 2 distinct types of valves. A continuously variable and an indexed type. If you have the type with 3 distinct settings H/M/L you cannot do a proper conversion by simply changing out orifices. If you have the variable type simple orifice change will usually suffice. For the most part though simply staring at flames is a hard way to tell unless you have one operating correctly as a comparison tool.
 
Okay what is the trick to getting those damn studs on the side caps on the lid. Got 4 of them just spinning can't get them out

Not sure if they're the same as mine, but just put a paint scraper underneath them and slowly pry them up. Mine weren't real nuts in the traditional sense, they are thin metal. I re-used all of mine. Good luck!
 
Ed thanks I started a thread on the rebuild. I got them off with my angle grinder should have tried what you said but they were badly rusted. They have a notch so cut them all around because they are wider the closer you get to the firebox so not much if any damage to the screws. Also your reply in the Bruce thread on the slats yes my Lowes have them so good. I think I will replace them with MC part number 93791A552 which are black at least I know you can get them out if they need to be for some reason, Jeff did the same thing but he used the unpainted ones these are black thinking it over. It was another member who used that part number.
 

 

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