Hole in my cookbox


 
Bruce

Bruce

TVWBB 2-Star Olympian
Any suggestions??? I started my personal grill yesterday. My Genesis 1000 Redhead. Today, I was cleaning up the cookbox and notice a hole that I didn't see before. It is where one of the Flavorizer bars rests. It looks like the same spots in other slots have similar corrosion. Probably from heat and junk dripping off the flavo bars.

What are my option? I don't weld, but I could find someone, I am sure. Not sure what they would charge or if it is really repairable at all. The only garage option I can think of is to put a stainless steel bolt in there. Or, just leave it be. Or, also, I could find a donor grill with the deep box. In fact, I think I have one in the garage....except that I would like to keep it as original as possible and probably worse, I already cleaned and painted the cook box. I didn't notice the hole until I was getting ready to paint it.

I am open to opinions and suggestions.

The pencil is there to give size reference to the size of the hole.

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Bruce said:
I am open to opinions and suggestions
Click to expand...
Do everything you planned to do (long as it didn't require a large outlay of cash) and when it's all done, just still a small ball of aluminum foil in the hole. It looks like you have future holes in the making where the other bars sit, it happens. Depending where you keep it, there's still plenty of life in that bad boy
 
I thought about tin foil, but that seemed too simple.

Any other thoughts/suggestions?
 
Bruce,
If it was me I'd do a stainless bolt surrounded by some Quiksteel or JB Weld in puddy form.

In the meantime I would keep my eye open for a "mint" cook box as there is no time limit as the repair would probably outlast the grill.

Don't let this dissuade you from building your dream grill.

Jeff
 
I am going to finish it up with this box. Not sure on the hole repair yet. I wish my son was closer than 1300 miles away. He is a welder. Anyway, like I said, I think one of the grills I have lined up in the garage would have a cook box that is a direct replacement for this one. But, since I already have this box cleaned and painted, I dont want to have to go through the drill again. Plus, I am hoping to rehab that grill for resale. I have already stolen parts off another grill to make this one whole.

I checked and JB Weld only is rated to 500 degrees. These grills get much hotter, especially in the spot the hole is in. But I did a little searching and found this. It might be the answer:

https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000BOAZM8/tvwb-20
 
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Bruce said:
I am going to finish it up with this box. Not sure on the hole repair yet. I wish my son was closer than 1300 miles away. He is a welder. Anyway, like I said, I think one of the grills I have lined up in the garage would have a cook box that is a direct replacement for this one. But, since I already have this box cleaned and painted, I dont want to have to go through the drill again. Plus, I am hoping to rehab that grill for resale. I have already stolen parts off another grill to make this one whole.

I checked and JB Weld only is rated to 500 degrees. These grills get much hotter, especially in the spot the hole is in. But I did a little searching and found this. It might be the answer:

https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000BOAZM8/tvwb-20
Click to expand...

We sell that at my work, it's only a temporary fix. Use the Quiksteel instead.

Jeff
 
That looks like the stuff I need. Thanks Jeff. I can pick some up at Oriellys. I am thinking I can forgo the ss bolt altogether. I guess I will find out.
 
Do you have a radiator shop or a farm implement repair shop nearby ?
After a total cleaning of that area, welding would be a quick, permanent fix.
 
Yah, there are welders in my area. I could take it out to one of them I guess. But, I think I will try the QuikSteel first. Cheap and easy. If it doesn't hold up, I will either replace the box or take it out to have it welded.

I am kind of interested to test this Quiksteel out since I have taken up buying Weber rehabs and fixing them up and reselling them. I am sure I will come across this issue again as I have seen it mentioned more than once on this forum.
 
I would use the high temp quick steel. I use the low temp stuff and it repairs castings on the KitchenAid mixers I rebuild. I have repaired a few of them like that when a gear has let loose and punched through. Once cured the stuff is harder and more durable than the metal around it. I actually have to use a die grinder to trim it. I think the high temp version can withstand to nearly the melting point of aluminum
 
Well, it is advertised to with stand 2000 degrees. I would think that is plenty for a grill. And it sounds like it will be durable enough otherwise. I will pick some up later today. At some point, I will post back the results, but it will probably take several cooks to ensure it will hold. Also, I am still in the process of cleaning the grill up and getting it put back together.
 
You need to make sure you prep the area VERY well. Slightest amount of grease or oil will cause the patch to not hold. You also need to overlap on to the good metal then after full cure grind back the excess. This give the patch a chance to "bite" onto a solid area. Those holes are caused because of the flavorizer bars expanding and contracting and they cut into the soft metal eventually. Might be wise than to grind off the corners on the bars and put a nice rounded area on them.
 
That sounds like sound advice on the prepping and curing. I will head. I may also round off the corners on the flavo bars as you suggest.
I stopped at a True Value HW store this morning and they were all out of the QuikSteel stuff. So, I went to an Oriellys this morning and they didn't have the Quick steel, but had the JB Weld version. It has the same 2000 degree heat resistance and says for use on BBQ's. It basically looks like the exact same thing as the QuikSteel. So, I will get out and clean out the areas and apply the stuff and see how it goes. And, again, I will try to update on my success or failure with this.
THanks for the help everyone.
 
I did the JB weld thing and it seems to be holding OK. It took much longer to dry than what I expected so I am not sure if I didn't get it mixed up good enough or what, but it looks like it will work. If not, I will just pull the cookbox and find a donor and clean it out.

I am going to order some SS RCPlanebuyer Flavo bars after payday and I already have a couple useable grates, so, I will get it fired up and see how it works and if the JB Weld holds up to heat.

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Bruce said:
I did the JB weld thing and it seems to be holding OK. It took much longer to dry than what I expected so I am not sure if I didn't get it mixed up good enough or what, but it looks like it will work. If not, I will just pull the cookbox and find a donor and clean it out.

I am going to order some SS RCPlanebuyer Flavo bars after payday and I already have a couple useable grates, so, I will get it fired up and see how it works and if the JB Weld holds up to heat.

ET16qmo.jpg
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Hey Bruce, how is the cookbox holding up? I am in the same situation as you and was thinking of using the high temp quiksteel or jb weld.
 
Mine seems to be holding up just fine. I have done several high heat cooks as well as smoking projects and rotisserie cooking.
 
Sam I see no reason it would not work fine either product as LM said it needs to overlap the hole which I am sure Bruce did and the area around it oil and grease free, If the hole is not that large I might run a drill bit gently in the whole edges if you know what I mean so its a clean bite. I have used the JB many a time but not the 2400 temp if its thin like the normal stuff and yes it needs to be completely mixed on the normal stuff you must mix it 50/50.

Not sure what Bruce did but I would take on one side a beer box cutout piece the shiny side not the brown side put it on one side of the hole taped down if this JB weld is a paste like the normal stuff I use a metal putty knife to apply over one side of the hole, let dry pull the patch off on the other side then do the same thing with the putty knife. Inside the cook box would not even bother to grind it after its applied on the outside if you have a flat metal file you should easily get it flush on the outside depends where the hole is.

Blue Magic 18003 QuikSteel High Temperature Metal Repair Blister Card - 3 oz.
J-B Weld 37901 ExtremeHeat Metallic Paste Adhesive, 3 Oz

I assume Bruce used the above J-B for sure the Blue Magic is non-toxic once cured not sure about the J-B Weld but I would guess it is.

Bruce I have work with J-B weld quite a bit if you let it dry a day it still might feel tacky but once you sand it you will find its dry.

Brian
 
I put masking tape on the outside of the cook box. It doesnt create a solid seal, so some of the JB weld will ooze out slightly which is a good thing. I just applied it to the inside and scraped away the excess. You could use any tool from a piece of wood to a piece of cardboard to a flat head screw driver. Then, after it dried, I took a dremel and cleaned up both the inside and outside.
 
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