need a Genesis serial number


 
D

Dick Ross

New member
I'm trying to modify a Genesis NG grill to reduce the lowest temp I can hold for smoking. With everything stock, the Lowest temp I can hold is about 275-300 deg. with the 10K sear burner on as low as it will go.

I modified the sear burner by plugging about 1/2 of the holes. I adjust the burner by turning it back toward off instead of toward the low mark on the dial. I can adjust the flame so that I can hold a temp down as low as 200 deg. The only problem is that the valve used this way is very sensitive and difficult to get adjusted. I think an LP valve would reduce the maximum gas flow and allow a full range of adjustment.

Weber won't sell me an LP valve to modify my NG grill. They would however sell me an LP valve to repair my LP grill (if I had an LP grill), but they need a serial number for the grill that I don't have. What I need is some kind soul who will loan me the model number and serial number off of a vintage 2015 +/- Genesis LP grill with a sear burner.

Just for reference, my grill is serial # AH1112994

Thanks,
Dick
 
If this thread isn't locked or deleted, I would check eBay as many of the sellers on there would either already have one for sale or be willing to put one up. That way there's no fraud. :)
 
First off "plugging" holes in the burner is not a smart thing to do. You run the chance of flames either A "backing up" into the manifold area or B simply flaming out leaving you with a grill full of unburned gas. Same with trying to reduce gas flow into the burner. Insufficient flow is just as dangerous as too much (maybe more so). Again it promotes an uneven burn, accumulation of unburned gas and more. You run the VERY real risk of having unburned fuel accumulate to the point that when you lift the lid to check things you have a sudden rush of air move the gas and BOOOM a very nice conflagration come up to meet you right in the face.
There are other ways (safe) to accomplish your needs but screwing around with gas flow and your burners is NOT the way to do it
 
THyde said:
Another idea here would be to just install LP orifices on your NG manifold ..
Click to expand...

The way the valve itself is designed that wouldn't work. When you turn it to low setting it does not just choke off the main port. It opens to a secondary passage in the valve that contains a smaller orifice (not replaceable) that controls the minimum flow. I assume this is to control the minimum flame so that it will not blow out. It's also part of the reason you can't convert a weber between NG and LP by just replacing the orifices.
If i changed the main orifice to something smaller than this secondary orifice, it would result in lower flow and less heat, but it would not be adjustable.

Dick
 
Agree with LMichaels. We had a neighbor a few years ago that converted his propane grill (not a Weber) to natural gas by messing with the valves and orifices and burners. He really didn't have a clue to what he was doing.
One afternoon we heard a big boom and saw smoke coming from his yard. The grill blew up and they found the lid in his next door neighbors yard and the front of the fire box on the far side of his yard.
Fortunately he was inside when it blew up so no one got hurt, but it could have been fatal if he had be standing in front of it.
If you're going to convert get the whole manifold.
 
Chris in NY said:
AH0275240
2014 ep330 with sear station
Get the whole manifold, if they ask say it tipped over
Click to expand...

Thank you much for the numbers. I just talked to Weber. they will only sell the whole manifold. $83 including tax and shipping. That's a bit more than I was expecting (although it's a lot cheaper than I would expect for a manifold with 4 valves!). I'm going to continue checking E-bay and Craigs list, for a broken or junked grill, but I may end up just paying the money.

Dick
 
LMichaels said:
First off "plugging" holes in the burner is not a smart thing to do. You run the chance of flames either A "backing up" into the manifold area or B simply flaming out leaving you with a grill full of unburned gas. Same with trying to reduce gas flow into the burner. Insufficient flow is just as dangerous as too much (maybe more so). Again it promotes an uneven burn, accumulation of unburned gas and more. You run the VERY real risk of having unburned fuel accumulate to the point that when you lift the lid to check things you have a sudden rush of air move the gas and BOOOM a very nice conflagration come up to meet you right in the face.
There are other ways (safe) to accomplish your needs but screwing around with gas flow and your burners is NOT the way to do it
Click to expand...

What I'm trying to accomplish is to make a burner and valve that is adjustable from about 5K to 1K. Please explain how I can accomplish this without modifying the burner and changing the gas flow? If I end up blowing myself up and burning the house down, I'll let you know.
 
I have converted several grills (not weber) from propane to Natural gas. Never had any problems. The valves seemed to work fine as far as "useable" adjustment. I just looked up the orifice size for the BTU rating of the grill and screwed in the new orifice.
 
Have fun I'll keep an eye out for flaming UFO's but frankly I think you're a little loopy on this. But what the hell.......................have fun
 
Water pan is an idea I have used. But sometimes you don't want that moisture. Also the OP is most likely using the hood thermo which is sitting just over that burner. Better to use a far left or right burner and use the opposite side to cook. Also use an accurate oven thermo. I have done VERY successful smoking on both my old Genesis and on my Summit without resorting to off the chart ideas. As I am sure you have too Chris. And, sometimes we just have to face a fact that there are going to be times that a gas grill is just NOT going to work and get on with life and not do things to it (the grill) that can compromise it's (or your) safety. Darwinism is alive and well LOL ;-)
 
LMichaels said:
Water pan is an idea I have used. But sometimes you don't want that moisture. Also the OP is most likely using the hood thermo which is sitting just over that burner. Better to use a far left or right burner and use the opposite side to cook. Also use an accurate oven thermo. I have done VERY successful smoking on both my old Genesis and on my Summit without resorting to off the chart ideas. As I am sure you have too Chris. And, sometimes we just have to face a fact that there are going to be times that a gas grill is just NOT going to work and get on with life and not do things to it (the grill) that can compromise it's (or your) safety. Darwinism is alive and well LOL ;-)
Click to expand...



Water pan helps a little but not enough. I'm using a K thermocouple, not the "heat indicator" in the hood. I have sucessfully smoked ribs and brisket, etc. At temperatures that gradually rose to over 300 deg during the process. The meat was pretty good. But I'm going for perfection! for that I need a burner I can turn down low enough to maintain 225 deg. Building a 5K burner just doesn't seem like it should be that big a deal. There are hundreds of people building NG burners from a bunsen burner to a million CFM flare. I don't see any reason why I can't build one.
I have blown up numerous things during my career, but never with natural gas. If you want to have some fun, heat up 50 gal., of water to 600+ deg and then turn it loose.
 
need a serial number?????

Chris in NY said:
AH0275240
2014 ep330 with sear station
Get the whole manifold, if they ask say it tipped over
Click to expand...

Weber is telling me this is "Q" model portable. What I need is a serial number for a 2015+/- vintage genisis with a sear burner for LP gas.

Can anybody help?

Thanks,
Dick
 
Chris in NY said:
That's so weird. I took it from a customer's s330. Will go out to the boneyard tomorrow and get you another
Click to expand...


I think someone probably transposed a digit/character somewhere. If you input that SN on Weber's Support page, it comes back as a Genesis EP-330 LP. (Could get into a long discussion how Weber's site doesn't give you exact model based off sn, just something "close enough" so that you can order the right parts.)
 
Sucess!!!

For the benefit of those with a short attention span, I'll explain what worked first. On the sear burner tube I covered 6" of the ports with foil duct tape, leaving 8" of open ports. I removed the NG sear valve and replaced it with an LP sear valve. I tested with a 3 quart sauce pan half full of warm water with a lid on the right side of the grill. With the sear valve on high, it ignited normally and flame seemed just a little lower than high flames on one of the regular burners. Regular burner turned on momentarily just for comparison. With the lid closed, temperature climbed rapidly to 250 and still going up fast. I turned the sear valve down to low and left the lid open for a minute to cool down then closed the lid. Temp climbed slowly (5-10 min.) to 225 deg and an hour later it was at 227 deg. I should mention air temp was 100 deg. with little breeze. Flame height on low was adequate to prevent accidental flame outs.

This is pretty close to what I was aiming for. I would have preferred a slightly lower temp on low, just to give me some room for adjustment, but I can live with what I got.
Now for the stuff that didn't work. On the original sear valve I changed the orifice to #63 and covered 1/2 of the burner tube. As expected this cut down the heat output on high, but did not change the heat output on low. Actually there was very little difference between high and low.
I then modified the valve by grinding back the rotation stop and making this a half turn valve. I filed a groove in the valve rotor to get some flow at the lower setting. This is difficult to do without a lot better equipment than I have. I ended up with a valve that would adjust down very low but the maximum grill temp was about 190 deg. Gave this up as a bad Idea.
I also tried replacing the sear valve with one of the NG 12K burner valves. These are 1/2 turn valves and should give me more adjustment. This functioned OK, but the holding temp with the valve on low was about 250 deg.

I may have to come up with a better way of closing off the burner ports. I don't expect the aluminum tape to last long when I crank the grill up to do some steaks. I'm going to take a better look at the 12K LP valves to see if i can think of a way to plug and redrill the orifice in the valve rotor.

After that maybe a Thermostat!! Or I may just conquer a small country!

dICK
 
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