Weber e210 spirit NG conversion?


 

HTran

New member
Hi, I am just getting started on my first Weber grill. It is a Weber e210 Spirit with the control on front. From searching I understand that it is not a popular grill but I got a good price so I decided to buy. It run on LP from factory. I don't like having to buy propane and I already have NG line in the back yard. I am in the process of converting it to NG.

So far I have the NG regulator installed and line connected to my house gas line, checked for leaks, it fired up but the flame burn very low and blue on high. I know I definitely need to change to bigger orifice. The grill has 2 burner with a total of 26500 btu. I looked up the Anderson Forrester conversion chart but don't understand what size orifice I need just see so many numbers and not sure what the number scales is.

I am not planning to change the valve unless someone with experience tell me it is necessary. I want to start next with the orifice. Any help with reading the conversion chart is greatly appreciated.

I also do not get much result searching for e210 spirit conversion so if there is already a post out there, let me know.

Thanks.
Htran
 
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Welcome to the forum! If you want to keep it simple I believe that the entire manifold for lp is not all that expensive and may save the hassle of trying to find the correct orifice
 
IT scares me when I see posts like this as it's obvious the proper knowledge of working with gas and gas appliances is not there. Honestly before you blow yourself up you should have someone who knows what they're doing help you or do this for you. The process is NOT hard but it IS exacting and requires knowledge of how to work with gas plumbing, and the basics of BTU content and pressure settings. And BTW this part of the forum is for the "Q" series grills. You may want to post future questions in the other forum here.
 
First, this thread should probably be moved out of the Q grills forum and into the Gas grill forum. But, it doesn't look like the process is all that hard or expensive.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDCeZ2cg8ns

The TRUE answers are not always on Youtube. IT MAY work sometimes and may not. Not every conversion is a simple orifice swap. In doing over 20 grill conversions (from one type of gas to another) I have only seen ONE that ONLY required orifices to work CORRECTLY. When I do a job I want it done CORRECTLY not just enough to only work. There IS a difference!
 
I will trust what LMichaels says regarding the swap. I agree, "don't believe everything you hear on the internet" but make informed choices.
 
DaveW: I did contact grill repair via email and they say they don't sell just the orifice but u have to buy the regulator (I already have NG regulator).

Michaels: I agreed about safety and I posted in the "Q" section thinking "Q" stands for "Question". If you know someone/mod that can move this thread to the appropriate section, I appreciated. Back to safety, I don't have the knowledge nor experience like you so this is why I posted this asking for info. I gave very detail of what I have done. I purposely did this in incremental step: 1) change regulator and hose 2) connect new hose to NG line 3)turn on NG and test for leaks 4) fire it on with original orifice and manifold.

Would you explain to me in the above step where I could cause danger to myself and those around me? In my test I make sure I turn the valve on high (so the flame does not die). But the grill did not have enough heat.

I am thankful to still be here to post this experience and hope that the next person do not do what I do if it was a stupid idea.

I will go back to the conversion chart and see what drill size is needed for a 26500 btu divided by 2 burner = 13250 btu. Any help on the orifice drill size would be greatly appreciated. For now that grill stay dormain until I either source a NG manifold or drilled the correct orifice size.

Thanks.
 
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There is no need for a regulator to run on NG. If you take into account what pressure your house supply is. You need a manometer to check your supply pressure. Most homes run on 7" WC. Now you have to find in the chart what orifice size is needed for the required BTU at 7" (or whatever you have). This ONLY takes care of how the grill will work wide open (all valves on full). Where things fall on their face and that goofy company you spoke to falls on their face is ONLY grills with continuously variable valves will work PROPERLY using this method. Most (due to cost factors) do NOT use this type of valve. Most use a valve with 3 or more fixed settings. If you run NG into a propane valve of this type you will lose flame propagation in your burners, (will not stay lit properly) yet gas can and will still flow in a closed (lid down) environment. Potential explosion OR perhaps even worse. Gas continues to flow though the unlit burner tube(s). Now here you come to check on your food. Lift the lid and whoosh a ball of flame comes up to greet you. Bottom line do whatever you want. I am trying to give you good advice yet you seem to want to be sarcastic. So please best of luck have fun.
 
Where things fall on their face and that goofy company you spoke to falls on their face is ONLY grills with continuously variable valves will work PROPERLY using this method. Most (due to cost factors) do NOT use this type of valve. Most use a valve with 3 or more fixed settings. If you run NG into a propane valve of this type you will lose flame propagation in your burners, (will not stay lit properly) yet gas can and will still flow in a closed (lid down) environment. Potential explosion OR perhaps even worse. Gas continues to flow though the unlit burner tube(s). Now here you come to check on your food. Lift the lid and whoosh a ball of flame comes up to greet you. Bottom line do whatever you want. I am trying to give you good advice yet you seem to want to be sarcastic. So please best of luck have fun.

Hi Michaels, if I offended you or anyone else, my sincere apology. I believe I know why you feel I was being sarcastic, the fact that I am here I truely am blessed I did not do any harm to myself or anyone around me, there is no sarcastic in this statement. I have followed the LP to NG thread and fully aware of where you stand on safety.

Back to safety I now see where the potential issue with what I did, but I guess instinct tell me not to turn on the grill for long time and walk away. I was testing it in under 1 minute the most with the lid closed to check the temperature gauge which was not moving much in wide open valve. As I said I learned a bit more from the above potential explosion from your example so my grill is staying dormant for now until I source the proper manifold or just put things back and use the LP.

Mod/moderator please help me move this thread to appropriate section since I thought "Q" means Question section.
 
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I have updates. I bought a NG manifold based on suggestion above and for peace of mind since I am not an expert. I will let the photos speak for themselves. In the photos, left is always LP and right is NG.

I changed it out and test for leaks. I turned on the grill and seems to work ok. But I am not sure how to test for proper flame. For me the high setting seems weak. I still have the NG regulator inline.

Ah, unfortunately I don't know why I cannot post attachments.
 
Because this site makes you jump through hoops to do it. As to your question. You need to know what your gas pressure is in the house, also the line you have may be too small or may have too many other things feeding off it. If your mainline pressure in the house is between 3" to 5" WC you really don't need the regulator. If it's over 6" than the regulator will be in order.
 

 

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