Is this Genesis set up for LP or Natural Gas?


 
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PaulD

TVWBB Member
I'm so looking forward to restoring this Genesis, but it looks like I'm off to a crummy start! My fault, of course.

Picked up a little redhead, and thought I was in business. It had the Liquid Propane connector and everything. Flipped over the control panel (the porcelain piece with text that lists the proper meat cooking temperatures) and saw the factory sticker. "Type of Gas: Natural". DOH!


How can I tell if this unit has been converted to LP or not? Do the current photos give any indication as to what fuel it currently uses?
Is it as simple as replacing the burner tubes? Or would the entire manifold be different?
The current manifold has a threaded nipple that threads perfectly onto a standard LP hose with regulator. Would a natural gas connector be threaded/sized differently?

For what it's worth, the manifold appears to have very tiny output holes (almost as small as a pilot light for an LP patio heater I recently took apart).


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Oh, and also, the two thumb bolts that attach the manifold to the firebox? Yeah, they snapped right off.


Have any tips on the fuel type or the broken bolts? Any help to steer this project in the right direction would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
 
Honestly it's hard to tell. It could be the sticker is wrong because back in the day the stores would swap parts. As for the bolts time to break out the drill bits. You'll need to remove the fire box (most likely will snap that bolt). Then carefully start with smaller bits and work your way up to the size needed. DO NOT TRY TO USE A PUNCH. The old aluminum gets VERY brittle and it will shatter (ask me how I know LOL). Then get some good stainless bolts and nuts and use them along with a little anti seize compound. Try shooting a photo of the manifold from the orifice side that is in very clear focus. I may be able to tell from that
 
Those look like someone took a pair of pliers to them. But to my eye they appear to be the larger ones for natural gas. Only way to really know for sure would be to get a set of number index drills. Carefully insert the shank end (smooth) into the orifice until you get to one that is snug but the next size up does not fit. That final one that fits snug (but not "forced") is the opening size. Once you have that knowing that the older Genesis grills were 36k BTU total that means 12k per burner. Than look up a gas flow chart such as this http://andersonforrester.com/conversion-chart/ and you can actually calculate what has been done. Sadly you won't know if it has been dine correctly since it is not just the orifice size on some older Weber grills that determine proper performance with LP or NG. But at least you can have a start
 
Took a chance and started it up with the existing burner tubes. I shot a little brake cleaner in there first, let it air dry a bit, and then tried it out.

The back burner has beautiful blue flames coming out of it. (It may be difficult to see in the photos). The front burner isn't great, but also not like a huge fireball either. I didn't expect that left-side (running North-South) piece was an actual burner as well. Interesting. Well, that one doesn't have a particularly good-looking flame (lots of orange).

Also, I'm pretty sure that's not how the tray should be attached down there. That might also have an effect on the flame. I'm assuming that the tray goes *below* the hole in the bottom of the firebox. (That's how it came, and I couldn't immediately find a clear way to attach it. I'll keep reviewing the rebuild threads to see if I'm missing some rails or holding device.)

Anyways, not sure if the flame in these photos is good or bad news. I had always planned on getting new burner tubes, just hoping I don't have to replace the entire manifold.

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The piece on the side is in fact a burner. It is the crossover burner. It does need to be cleaned. If you buy a set of burners I think it comes with. Flames look decent. Is this on NG or LP? You're right about the grease pan also. There should be a bracket under the grease tray to hold that little pan
 
As far as I'm told (I went from propane to natural gas) the orifices and valves on the propane manifolds have smaller holes and different gas control in the valves, end result LESS propane is coming out of the orifices. The natural gas manifolds have bigger orifices and the valves let MORE gas out, because propane basically "burns hotter" than natural gas. So from your flame test, if you are using propane there, it looks like you are OK. From what I'm told, if you put propane into a NG setup, you'll have enormous flames and it doesn't look like that is the case there.

Slainte!
 
This is what a Weber Summit NG looks like when only the regulator was changes.

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Yours looks like it was done correctly.
 
I'd put the lid on, take that grease catcher pan out of the bottom pan to allow correct airflow, then fire it up. Let it get over 500 degrees, then lower it to medium. It should come down to within range on the thermometer, assuming the thermometer works (most of my rescues definitely needed thermometers). If it comes down below 500 I'd say you have the correct manifold.

Also, just as an opinion, those burners might not be as bad as you think. I'd brush them with a metal brush, clean them up as good as I could and see what the flames looked like.

Good luck!

Tim
 
LMichaels, Scott P., and THyde: Thank you for your encouraging words and your wisdom. I really appreciate it.

Was feeling quite discouraged until you guys replied. Thank you. Even better news that the burners might be ok to try out.

THyde: this is a dumb question but: how did you figure out that the thermometer was bad? Did it give a slightly incorrect reading when compared to, say, an oven thermometer? Or did the needle not move at all? (Basically: slightly off? or wildly incorrect?)

Does anyone know if the black plastic spider protectors are available to purchase? They attach at the point where the manifold inserts into the burner tubes. The existing ones are a bit brittle, and close to snapping.
 
The thermometer just didn't move at all, or was pinned at the maximum even when the grill was off.
 
Paul, on the main burner tubes, as THyde said, give them a good cleaning with a wire brush. Inspect each of the holes and make sure they are clear. if any are clogged, use something small like an eyeglass screw driver and clear them. Doesn't hurt to run a brush up through the inside of the tubes as well if you can. The thing to look for on the burners (and the cross over tube) is if they are solid, or if they are splitting apart along the line of holes. It kind of looks like that has happened to your cross over tube. If so, not a big deal as you can buy that individually for about $10.

As to the spider guards, they are available at many outlets, Weber, eReplacement, Amazon, etc. Part number is 4089700
 
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