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Thread: From Drab to Fab - Putting together a "How-To" Restoration Guide

  1. #31
    TVWBB All-Star Bruce's Avatar
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    Looks like you have a great grill to work with. Hopefully, you can rescue that drop down swing table.
    Good luck with the rebuild. Keep us posted on how it goes.
    Genesis 1000-Redhead Q100 Q1400

  2. #32
    New Member MarkSiebel's Avatar
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    GREAT INFO!!

    what is RCPlaneBuyer ?



    Frame
    Inspect for rust
    treat for rust
    Sand (400+)
    paint with high-gloss, high-heat paint

    "For the frame, Rustoleum High Heat BBQ paint. We all use it." - Bob Ivey
    https://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?676...l=1#post747308

    "The frame is in great condition so I sanded down some light surface rust by the weld joints, shot it with VHT Rust Convertor, sanded with 320 grit, then hit the spots with Etching Primer, lighted sanded with 400 grit, and then used Wax and Grease remover to cleanup. If it ever stop raining here in Mass I will apply several light coats of black paint to the frame." - Jeff MA
    https://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?663...l=1#post734395

    "If you sand down the frame, use 400 grit or higher. I made the mistake of doing a light sanding with 100 and that made the job a lot more work than necessary. The sanding was very visible with the high heat gloss paint. I had to sand, paint, sand, paint numerous times to get them out." - MarkMac
    https://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?666...l=1#post739195


    Rust treatment
    "You can have a look at a company Eastwood.com they have chemicals that coat and turn the rust into some other material that becomes very hard. I have used it in automotive applications. They even sell a long hose with a spray nozzle on the end that is 360 degrees. The stuff works.
    Don't pound on the bolt BTW or you will shatter the cast aluminum. This happened to me on an old Ducane (back when they were really good not made in China by Weber products). I was trying to center punch a screw and I shattered a bit of the casting.
    You could add some metal to reinforce the area and then use a stainless steel carriage bolt. Also use some never seize and you'll never need to worry about it again. Another word of advice. If you remove the burners they slide out to the right they do not "lift" out. You'll see inside on the left side of the fire box 2 screws that appear to hold the burners down. DO NOT REMOVE THESE or attempt to. You'll only open up a hornets nest of issues.
    As for the bottom hard to tell. You may be able to salvage it but if you can get a new piece cheap grab it. I would then do rust treatment with those chemicals from Eastwood" - LMichaels
    https://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?689...l=1#post761023


    Parts List
    Weber - Caster with insert - Part #65936 $12.50 each
    Weber - 8" Wheel - Part #63050 $9.50 each
    Weber Igniter kit - Part #900 - $12.50
    Weber Rocker Switch Bracket - Part #92515 $5
    Weber Rocker Switch - Part #92510 $5
    Weber Control Knob - Part #78960 $5 each
    RCPlaneBuyer SS Flavorizers - replaces Weber #7538 $73
    RCPlaneBuyer SS Cook Grates - Replaces Weber #9930 $120
    Burner tubes - ???

    Picklist - spreadsheet of parts
    https://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?679...l=1#post766774


    Z-Bars
    If Z-Bars need replacing:
    "RC Plane Buyer sells the z brackets for the shelves, side shelf and the bottom." - Bobby Segars
    https://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?679...l=1#post754918


    Disassembly instructions
    https://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?676...l=1#post747310


    Restoration Threads
    JeffMA restoration - very detailed
    https://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?663...-started/page2

    MarkMac restoration with tips
    https://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?666...Red-1100/page3

    MarkMac's tips
    "Here are a few items I learned along the way. They may already be on the boards somewhere, but figured I'd add the here in no particular order.

    - Take pictures of everything before you start. I was constantly going back to pictures to see what was where, or what was even visible when assembled.
    - Specifically take a picture of the serial number, model number etc. he first shot of Simply Green blew them right off on mine. No wiping or smearing, they just vanished. Luckily I had already taken a picture of it.
    - If your model has the real wood, label piece as you take them off. I did not, and because each piece had slightly different screw holes, when I went to put them back on it was like a jigsaw puzzle. If the hole was too far right, or left, the next piece looked weird.
    - The wood handle is different wood than the slats. So when you stain it, the colors will be slightly different and you may have to stain one or the other a second time to try and get them closer.
    - If you sand down the frame, use 400 grit or higher. I made the mistake of doing a light sanding with 100 and that made the job a lot more work than necessary. The sanding was very visible with the high heat gloss paint. I had to sand, paint, sand, paint numerous times to get them out.
    - I used the advice here to dab loctite Anti-Sieze (I used marine grade good to 2400F) on all the bolts through the FB. However worth noting is that you should wear gloves and be very careful as its a real PITA if you get it on the newly painted/cleaned hood.
    - I was anxious to fire it up when I put the burners in. The original burners were in great shape and I cleaned them out, and scrubbed them. However when I turned them on, they were flashing yellow flames, and making an off gurgling sound. I read on the weber site that if you don't have the drip pan and FB in place, the airflow is messed up and this happens. When I put everything together it looks/works great. 600 degrees in no time." - MarkMac
    https://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?666...l=1#post739195

    DiyAlready restoration
    http://www.diyalready.com/weber-gene...l-restoration/




    I take no credit for this information. This is collected from the knowledge shared by each and every one of you on the forum. Your knowledge is much appreciated![/QUOTE]
    Summit E-470

  3. #33
    TVWBB All-Star Bruce's Avatar
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    Mark: RCPlanebuyer is a guy that sells very high quality Stainless Steel replacement parts for Weber grills, to include cooking grates, flavorizer bars, heat sheilds as well as other parts. They are much better than any of the aftermarket Stainless parts and even significantly better quality than real Weber replacement parts. He uses only 304 stainless steel which is the best as well.

    If you are interested, just shoot me a PM asking for his contact info and I will forward it to you.
    Genesis 1000-Redhead Q100 Q1400

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