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Thread: HeaterMeter Build Help

  1. #1
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    HeaterMeter Build Help

    I built an HM 4.3 and am having difficulty powering up. My initial power up resulted in only the Green and Yellow LED's lighting up. The LCD did not show anything except the contrast lines. I went back through and reflowed all solder points looking for cold solder points. Tried restarting and have Green, Yellow and the RP red light illuminated and nothing else.

    I am posting images in hopes of finding an answer.



    [IMG][/IMG]







    [IMG][/IMG]

  2. #2
    TVWBB Wizard Steve_M's Avatar
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    The images are too small to be able to zoom in on them.

    Did you power it up attached to the Raspberry Pi? If not, this needs to happen as the Pi is needed to load the code onto the ATMEGA chip.

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    Yes I powered up with the RPi. I'll try and post larger pics tonight.

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    Check continuity on consecutive pins of the rPi header and the ATMega looking for shorts. Someone recently had a similar problem and it turned out some pins were shorted out by excess solder on the component side of the board (where it is hard or impossible to see).
    I created the Roto Damper, RD3, HMv4.2 sliding back case, "air-burner" and the "ping-pong" valve in my quest for delicious "set and forget" BBQ.

  5. #5
    TVWBB Wizard Steve_M's Avatar
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    I zoomed in on the images you currently have posted and it looks like you don't have the ATMEGA chip fully seated. It should be pushed all the way down into the socket.

    Last edited by Steve_M; 03-19-2017 at 06:02 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve_M View Post
    I zoomed in on the images you currently have posted and it looks like you don't have the ATMEGA chip fully seated. It should be pushed all the way down into the socket.

    Thanks. Pushed ATMEGA all the way in and got the same result.

  7. #7
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    For the HM4.3 should I have a Thermocouple Probe Jack?

  8. #8
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    Thermocouple pit probe is an OPTION on all HM builds, I dont see the SMD TC amp parts on your board so no, you shouldn't have a TC jack, you should have a standard probe jack in the probe 0 position. That is unless you plan to install the smd stuff yourself.
    I created the Roto Damper, RD3, HMv4.2 sliding back case, "air-burner" and the "ping-pong" valve in my quest for delicious "set and forget" BBQ.

  9. #9
    TVWBB Wizard Steve_M's Avatar
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    Does the RasPi boot? Have you managed to get to the web config in it or hooked it up to a TV/Monitor to see the text console output?

  10. #10
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    IDK if anyone mentioned, one common mistake that will make the ATMega not program is if you put the wrong part in the 3.3v regulator spot. You should have a MCP1700-33 in the IC4 slot. It looks just like the BS170 transistors, but the printing will show the MCP1700-33 number instead of BS170.
    I created the Roto Damper, RD3, HMv4.2 sliding back case, "air-burner" and the "ping-pong" valve in my quest for delicious "set and forget" BBQ.

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