Rust on an S-310


 
C

ChrisB in FL

TVWBB Member
Picked up a used 2012 S-310. Overall it's in pretty good condition. Two biggest issues are some light rust on the frame and somewhat heavier rust on the inside bottom cabinet doors. I'm wondering if the cabinet doors can be disassembled and then treated or would it be better to immerse the bottom in Evaporust or something similar? I'm concerned I'll destroy the cabinet doors trying to take them apart.

Thanks for any advice!

Chris

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I'd drill some holes in that back side of the door at both top and bottom. Now do something to make sure they are dry and inject whatever brand of "rust converter" you like and make sure it is well coated. Then make sure again it's dry. I would then sand and paint the external rust. I would also put some kind of weep holes in the bottom of the doors
 
Thanks LMichaels! There are 2 rivets in the bottom of the door. I'm tempted to drill them out as I suspect the panels would then slide right out. I could then hopefully replace with flush mount screws. I'd really like to inspect and paint both sides of that panel. Right now I've just got it sitting in Evaporust. I'll be keeping it on a covered porch, so it shouldn't ever get wet.
 
Oh heck yeah. Drill them out. Buy a pop rivet gun and once you've fixed everything reassemble it and then make sure you put weep holes in everything
 
Going to have to pick up a good cobalt drill bit to get these rivets out. Why couldn't they have just put screws there or even aluminum rivets? 24 hours in Evaporust got ~95% of the rust I could see. The Evaporust was very black. I was a little concerned it might discolor the shiny side of the cabinet, but it didn't affect it at all.
 
Might not be a bad idea to use a rust converter like Ospho instead of Evaporust in this instance. LMichaels told me about it iirc. Basically, instead of dissolving the rusted metal away, it converts it to iron phosphate and seals it.
 
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The rivets should be aluminum. I think EvapoRust does the same thing. Converts the rust into a hard phosphate material
 
Aluminum should drill out easy. These are not drilling out easily at all. Evaporust leaves visible pits if the rust was deep enough so don't think it leaves a protective layer of anything. I plan on painting it anyway.
 
OK well I would treat it with the rustoleum rust converter afterwards then some good rustoleum paint. It seems to be about the best stuff out there
 
Cobalt drill bit made short work of the rivets other than 1 spinning for a bit. That 24 hour soak in Evaporust didn't do much of anything to the inside rust and there was plenty. When I'm ready to put it back together gonna try to use a stainless screw and nut vs. another rivet just in case I ever have to take it apart again.

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone!
 
One thing to remember about cobalt drill bits is that they are more brittle than high speed steel bits. I use them exclusively in my work so I never worry about it. Just a cost of doing business. But they are some of the best bits out there. Only thing to use on stainless steel. Sounds like you are doing a really good job.
 
Thanks! Making progress slowly but surely. I figured once I got the trim off it was just going to be 2 separate sheets of stainless that would be easy to prep and paint. It's not, so I don't really have an easy way to paint the inside. Wonder if after treating the rust, spraying the interior full of foam would be a good option? That should prevent moisture from getting in there and would also provide a barrier to direct air contact. I'll take a better look at it tomorrow.
 
Update

For anybody wondering, here's a pic of the finished product. Ended up using 2 coats of Rustoleum High Heat Grey as I was worried about proximity to heat at the top of the door. It is not the prettiest finish, but for the back of a cabinet door, it's fine. Instead of rivets, I used Weathermax Stainless Steel Pan Head Machine Screws from Lowe's (10-24 x 1/2). Didn't need to use nuts. I was careful not to over torque the screws and the trim is holding firmly in place. I probably wouldn't trust it for a ride in my trailer, but just sitting on my back porch I think it will be fine.

I'm going to hold off on weep holes. I'm certain the previous owner kept it exposed to the elements. I'm keeping it on a covered porch. I will monitor it and add weep holes if necessary.

As for treating the rust, Evaporust worked well on the panel once I got the trim off. Just had to do a little touch up with a wire brush before painting. I used bar keeper's friend on the trim. The most difficult parts were the bottom inside corners. Tried to get it all with bar keeper's but ended up using a scotch pad to get the last of it. Don't use a scotch pad on a visible surface as it will scratch.

Chris

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Even if you keep it covered on a patio weep holes will still be a good addition. If you live in a moisture prone area as you do humidity builds up and inside the doors has no place to go and no way to evaporate. I would seriously do the holes or you'll be finding rust again pronto
 
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