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Thread: HeaterMeter Hardware v4.3.3

  1. #11
    TVWBB Honor Circle Bryan Mayland's Avatar
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    What's wrong with the thermocouple input? Is it just always saying "off"? Do you have the probe type set to Thermocouple 5mv/C? Did you remember to NOT insert the 10k resistor by the thermocouple but DO insert the 100k (in their proper holes, not putting the 100k in the 10k hole)?

    All the thermocouple boards undergo the testing procedure to make sure they work properly before they are sold so it should certainly work. You can check the continuity using the same reference image from the 4.2 board in the wiki with the device not powered, however the 5-4-2 running down the left side is actually brought out to the probe expansion header above it. 5="3V3" 4="0" 2="GND". With the board powered, the voltages should be right too, except instead if it being 9V because you're testing with a 9V battery, it will be ~3.3V. If you insert a wire into the thermocouple to short the connection, the output voltage should drop to ~100-200mV depending on the temperature. If it does not, verify that you do not have that 10k ohm resistor installed. If the voltage does drop make sure you've got your 100k resistor installed and you should see the same voltage at Pin 28 of the ATmega (the microcontroller pin closest to the thermocouple jack).

    If the voltage does not drop and you do not have the 10k resistor in, you might want to try taking a dry soldering iron (no solder, completely clean) and laying the tip flat against the pins on each side of the amplifier for 5 seconds to re-flow them.

  2. #12
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    With probe0 set as thermocouple no reading at all, have tried with different k-type T/C's which work fine with my DVOM with has a mini T/C jack. With probe0 set to internal an ambient temp is displayed.

  3. #13
    TVWBB Guru Steve_M's Avatar
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    I think some high res pics of the board around the thermocouple area would help.

  4. #14
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    I found what I believe to be the self inflicted problem with the thermocouple circuit, the surface mounted 10k resistor closest to the positive lead on the thermocouple connector was damaged. I am guessing this was done during the soldering of the thermocouple lead. Thanks for your help in leading me to finding the problem.

  5. #15
    TVWBB Honor Circle Bryan Mayland's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RoyStepp View Post
    I found what I believe to be the self inflicted problem with the thermocouple circuit, the surface mounted 10k resistor closest to the positive lead on the thermocouple connector was damaged. I am guessing this was done during the soldering of the thermocouple lead. Thanks for your help in leading me to finding the problem.
    Doh! If you need to replace the 10k SMD resistor, I can mail you a new one (actually a few because they are easy to lose in singles). It isn't too difficult if you have some tweezers and align the tip if your soldering iron so it touches both halves of the pad at once or just go back and forth quickly with the tip.

  6. #16
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    Just building up the LCD board now for my 4.3.3. It looks like some of the resistor values in the Mouser order links are for the ohms values when they should be kiloohms. This applies to R2, R9 & R11 on https://github.com/CapnBry/HeaterMeter/wiki . I was wondering what the 1R8 resistor was going to be used for :-).

    I'm going to try and use a generic LCD module (Truly MCC162) I had lying around as it looks the same shape and I think it has a compatible controller. I've cut the trace that earths the backlight and was planning on adding a 15R resistor as this module doesn't have one built in.

  7. #17
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    Bryan,

    Great work on the 4.3. I bought a few boards, and plan on assembling a few this arvo. I love the 2 board design. It introduces a bit more versatility regarding where the interface sits vs. the brains/guts.

    The case I'm printing now, and although a great design, I see a flaw in the top part of the case being a bit too thick, and the "pillars" between the rPi components on the side of the case may have a tendency to snap off (don't ask me how I know). I am not against a case that's equal thickness parted, and certainly not against the 4 screw rule. I know you're busy, and if you can't do it, and if you will allow me to, I would be happy to design an alternate case.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rhys P View Post
    Just building up the LCD board now for my 4.3.3. It looks like some of the resistor values in the Mouser order links are for the ohms values when they should be kiloohms. This applies to R2, R9 & R11 on https://github.com/CapnBry/HeaterMeter/wiki . I was wondering what the 1R8 resistor was going to be used for :-).

    I'm going to try and use a generic LCD module (Truly MCC162) I had lying around as it looks the same shape and I think it has a compatible controller. I've cut the trace that earths the backlight and was planning on adding a 15R resistor as this module doesn't have one built in.
    Ah man, I just bought 100 of each of those!

    Bryan can you change the buttons to the components you have linked too. lol.
    Heatermeter Builder. Adapter Board v6.3, Heatermeter customizer.

  9. #19
    TVWBB Honor Circle Bryan Mayland's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rhys P View Post
    Just building up the LCD board now for my 4.3.3. It looks like some of the resistor values in the Mouser order links are for the ohms values when they should be kiloohms. This applies to R2, R9 & R11 on https://github.com/CapnBry/HeaterMeter/wiki . I was wondering what the 1R8 resistor was going to be used for :-).
    Whoa good catch! Sorry you've probably ordered the incorrect resistor values but you're right the links are wrong. I've updated the wiki with the correct part links. This affected 1k2, 1k8, 3k9, and 8k2 resistors used in the LCD board.

    @John Bostwick: Those are 12mm tactile buttons with 8.5mm round actuators. The HeaterMeter kits come with 7.5mm tapered round actuators but I can't find a source for those from Mouser and mine come in a giant bag from China. I spent several hours combing the search results, reading datasheets, and buying samples. None of them are what I want. The linked buttons also are off-purple color and have a hole through the center of the plunger. All the buttons I ordered were like this so I said "f--- it, I give up". eBay has them in virtually any length.

    @WBegg: What do you mean the top part of the case is too thick? Do you mean the split point on the Pi connector side isn't at the right height for your liking? It's gotta split those connectors somewhere. The largest pillar is 14.8mm tall, starts 5mm from the base, and the split is at the 9mm part. That means you get 4mm on one side and 10.8mm on the other side. Sure, that's not symmetrical but try to snap off the pillar by the ethernet jack. Was it just as easy? Well that pillar is 8mm tall, which is really darn close to what both sides of the USB pillar would be if it were split there. I don't think it matters if it is 10.8mm or 7.5mm tall, it is always going to be easy to break off. I would say be sure your slicer is generating solid pillars of plastic for these, because if they're not, they will be very fragile.

    There's really not any way to make them stronger because they have to fit the Pi connectors and the USB ports have extended edges which makes the space between them so small that I can't even really fit a rib in there that does any good. You can always just increase the wall thickness if you want to make them sturdier, but that's not going to make much difference either, especially if they're not filled by your slicer.

    There's also no room for 4 screws, thus the hinged two screw design. You might be able to squeeze in 3 screws, but the Pi is where the fourth screw would need to go. You'd have to make the whole case roughly 10mm taller to fit the posts. I also tried to get away from having screws that went all the way through and had nut traps on the back because those are always a little hit or miss unless printed really well.

  10. #20
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    I think you read my response wrong, lol. I ment that I order the 100 of each of the wrong resistors you had linked toof. So, I was wondering if you could change the software to activate on the different resistors that were mistakenly linked too.

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