UK WSM users - who want to reduce air leaks on their doors


 

Petroni North

TVWBB Member
I am about to fit a gasket to my WSM 57cm cooker due to the poorly fitting door which, despite a fair bit of bending still has a lot of air able to get past.

Having checked Amazon and other sites for something suitable I settled on the BBQGaskets.com product supplied by Island Outdoor shown here http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00CI6WFCU/ but it was not only unavailable but no clue was given if it would ever be restocked. At £45 it seemed expensive too for what it was.

Then I checked the U.S. supplier http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00CI6WFCU/tvwb-20 and saw it was identical kit but at a third of the price.

So I ordered one. The shipping costs are of course extra at $11.99 making a total so far of $38.99 or £27.82 once converted to sterling (current rate £1:$1.40)

Got a card through the postbox today to say I had a package waiting at the post office which had an overdue customs charge of £3.82 plus a further £8.00 for the ‘handling charge’ of the Post Office telling me about the customs charge.

Bottom line is the total cost for the as yet untried gasket set stands me a total of £39.64

I ordered this before I learned about the stainless steel aftermarket doors replacement doors (Cajun Bullet) available from UK based (Brighton) BattleBoxBBQ http://battleboxbbq.com/shop/and-everything-else/wsm-replacement-doors/ at a cost of £36.00, although shipping via FedEx adds £9.50 and you still have to transfer your existing handle/lock or buy a new one which from memory involved drilling out the lock hole a little too plus the cost of the new lock which I think was about £26 (check).

Initially, based upon what I had read online in the first few days, I had planned to seal the door and both the middle and top ‘rings’. However, now that I am assured that the ‘rings’ will self seal as the cooker gets coated in various cooking gunk, I now only plan to sealing the door.

I also have a Weber replacement door due to arrive in a month or so and have bought some Vital Red RTV Silicone Gasket Maker (650f) in preparation for that one assuming it will also have gaps that I would want to reduce. If the gaps are small, but still warrant your attention, here is another solution you might consider. Check this link for a tube of liquid paste that can be used to seal between two surfaces normally to stop oils or water leaks. In my case I plan to use it as an air tight seal. See it here http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00442KUDC/ I read somewhere on this forum that it works to seal the door gaps. I guess it can be applied either on the door or on the body of the cooker. I will apply it to the door as it will be less unsightly.

The trick, it said, is to squeeze a bead of it thick enough to deal with whatever gap you are trying to get rid of, but then to take strips of greaseproof paper and lay them onto the bead of the RTV until it is fully covered (also allowing for the spread that will happen when squeezed between surfaces). Then you push the door into place. The theory being that the paste will then spread and shape itself to whatever gap your door has but the greaseproof paper prevents it sticking the door and cooker together.

A Youtube video I watched (sealing the read differential on a vehicle) said the RTV fully cures in about 24 hours. At this point, you peel the greaseproof paper off and in theory, have a purpose made gasket exactly matching you air gap sealing needs.

So three things to share

- if like me you want to try a tighter door and remove/reduce the variable airflow into your WSM 47/57cm, then the above options might be useful links for you, if only to compare with other stuff you find

- As a result of changing my plans, I will have most of the gasket tape I bought from the U.S. available for others to use on their doors if they want to split the cost. I would sell it by the inch, i.e., total length divided into the total cost, less whatever I use for my door seal (about 20% I suspect) plus post and packing at cost. Therefore you could get a door seal at about 20% of the cost of going through the same process I did.

- And finally, for a really cheap and cheerful alternative, the RTV gasket maker might be just what you need.

My cooker is just for cooking, not a fashion statement or garden ornament so a bit of tape or gasket glue showing doesn’t bother me but these three options should provide a solution for whatever you might be trying to achieve.

If you are interested just PM me via this forum. Cheers!

Edit : a couple of pictures here https://www.flickr.com/photos/140157926@N03/albums/72157664593432711
 
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My opinion:
1) use gasket ALSO for the lid basement. Don't hope only in gunk sealing.
2) if you can buy Cajun Bandit door do it. You get a thiker door a better closing sistem and you won't need silicon gasket round the door (it will last enough but not for ever due to the high eat really near to gasket)
Just my 2 cents
 
Hi Petroni, another UK based person here, new to WSMs. Many thanks for the link to battleboxbbq, I'd not heard of them but they look interesting. I have the 47cm version and the door fit isn't bad, I'd figured on using a thin bead of heat resistant silicone as a gasket if I really felt I needed one but having not yet cooked anything I'm not in a position to judge yet
 
Hi Petroni, another UK based person here, new to WSMs. Many thanks for the link to battleboxbbq, I'd not heard of them but they look interesting. I have the 47cm version and the door fit isn't bad, I'd figured on using a thin bead of heat resistant silicone as a gasket if I really felt I needed one but having not yet cooked anything I'm not in a position to judge yet

Welcome Colin. I am an old hand now as I have been at it for almost 10 days :p but seriously I have learned quite a lot pretty quickly. I do my third cook tomorrow (two pork shoulders and 4 monkfish loins wrapped in bacon). My silicon gasket is drying/curing as I type this and should be set by the morning. I'll let you know how it turns out. Good luck with yours, shout if I can be of any help.
 
Pet / Colin.

It's widely acknowledged the door for the WSM is rubbish. Buy a CB door and all is good. No need for gaskets etc. (Unless of course you have a badly warped unit). When I first got my WSM I bought a pound of streaky bacon and cooked it high heat, without water pan. This allowed the bacon fat to fall on to the full fire ring of lit coals to get a bit seasoning going on and a bit of gunk too. Never had any issues since.
Don't over-think it mate. K.I.S.S. ;)
 
CB door on the way

Pet / Colin.

It's widely acknowledged the door for the WSM is rubbish. Buy a CB door and all is good. No need for gaskets etc. (Unless of course you have a badly warped unit). When I first got my WSM I bought a pound of streaky bacon and cooked it high heat, without water pan. This allowed the bacon fat to fall on to the full fire ring of lit coals to get a bit seasoning going on and a bit of gunk too. Never had any issues since.
Don't over-think it mate. K.I.S.S. ;)

You must have read my mind Tony as I ordered a CB door from BanditBoxBBQ earlier as I figured your "the doors are rubbish" theme would apply to the Weber replacement due to arrive in March sometime and testing with gaping holes in the door is proving inconsistent.

I also placed an order for a 1/4" (6mm) steel plate to pop into the water bowl recess (weighs 23lbs) to replace thge 11lbs of sand so as soon as they both arrive I can start having a play with larger joints and look for longer, low heat, more stable cooks. Looking forward to the next few weeks :)
 
Pet / Colin.

It's widely acknowledged the door for the WSM is rubbish. Buy a CB door and all is good. No need for gaskets etc. (Unless of course you have a badly warped unit). When I first got my WSM I bought a pound of streaky bacon and cooked it high heat, without water pan. This allowed the bacon fat to fall on to the full fire ring of lit coals to get a bit seasoning going on and a bit of gunk too. Never had any issues since.
Don't over-think it mate. K.I.S.S. ;)

Hi Tony!

I have the 18 1/2" with the smaller door, I don't seem to get much leakage, well visible smoke leakage that is. What's the big advantage of swapping the doors? Less oxygen getting sucked in?

I'm halfway through my first proper cook now, fired it up at midnight last night and still going well. Pulled pork (Butt) and a homemade ham. I bought a DX2 from Battlebox so I'm cheating but I had a good night's sleep and the temp was bang on 225F 107C this morning. All very good but it makes it hard to see where any effect from the door comes in
 
Hi Tony!

I have the 18 1/2" with the smaller door, I don't seem to get much leakage, well visible smoke leakage that is. What's the big advantage of swapping the doors? Less oxygen getting sucked in?

I'm halfway through my first proper cook now, fired it up at midnight last night and still going well. Pulled pork (Butt) and a homemade ham. I bought a DX2 from Battlebox so I'm cheating but I had a good night's sleep and the temp was bang on 225F 107C this morning. All very good but it makes it hard to see where any effect from the door comes in

Hi Colin.

To be perfectly honest, the OEM door isn't rubbish it's the handle that's cr*p! Mine rounded off in no time and I couldn't operate the lock mechanism. But saying that, the door never really sealed properly anyway, & smoke could be seen coming from around the door. So if smoke can be seen, then heat is obviously escaping. It all felt a bit flimsy compared to the rest of the unit. I tried to mould it best I could, but I wasn't happy with it. Prior to ordering the CB door I installed a simple 1/4 turn key operated camlock, (the type you would find on a petty-cash box), & it worked so much better than the OEM lock system.

http://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?55189-Another-Door-Mod-14-5-quot

If you're happy with the OEM door, stick with it mate. No hot & fast rules in this game.
 
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OK I hadn't paid any attention to the handle/lock at all, I'll have a look at it next time the WSM comes out
 
Hi Tony!

I have the 18 1/2" with the smaller door, I don't seem to get much leakage, well visible smoke leakage that is. What's the big advantage of swapping the doors? Less oxygen getting sucked in?

I'm halfway through my first proper cook now, fired it up at midnight last night and still going well. Pulled pork (Butt) and a homemade ham. I bought a DX2 from Battlebox so I'm cheating but I had a good night's sleep and the temp was bang on 225F 107C this morning. All very good but it makes it hard to see where any effect from the door comes in

I will post a pic of my OEM door soon to demo how bad the misshaping was. My Cajun Bandit door arrived today. Alas it had a small bit of damage top right but by comparison to the OEM doors its 99% better.

Hi Colin.

To be perfectly honest, the OEM door isn't rubbish it's the handle that's cr*p! Mine rounded off in no time and I couldn't operate the lock mechanism. But saying that, the door never really sealed properly anyway, & smoke could be seen coming from around the door. So if smoke can be seen, then heat is obviously escaping. It all felt a bit flimsy compared to the rest of the unit. I tried to mould it best I could, but I wasn't happy with it. Prior to ordering the CB door I installed a simple 1/4 turn key operated camlock, (the type you would find on a petty-cash box), & it worked so much better than the OEM lock system.

http://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?55189-Another-Door-Mod-14-5-quot

If you're happy with the OEM door, stick with it mate. No hot & fast rules in this game.

OK I hadn't paid any attention to the handle/lock at all, I'll have a look at it next time the WSM comes out

I transferred the Weber door handle to the CB door and only then saw how lightweight it is so I can see it might need replacing/upgrading at some future date.

It is a tighter fit now too as I used a bead of the RTV gasket mastic up both sides and across the top to provide a near perfect seal. Its curing atm so will be able to test tomorrow if is makes any noticeable difference to the very bent OEM door.
 
PetNort.

Yeah, that Weber door handle is rubbish. A SouthCo compression latch, or a simple cam-lock, will stand you in good stead for the future.
 
PetNort.

Yeah, that Weber door handle is rubbish. A SouthCo compression latch, or a simple cam-lock, will stand you in good stead for the future.

Had a quick look at the link for SouthCo compression latch, did you have a specific piece of kit in mind?
 

 

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