New Build Questions

Hi guys/gals,

So excited I found this solution and forum. After reading reviews of the CyberQ and Stoker units I came across a link to the Heatermeter and I'm sold. Less price and more features seem like a win win to me. Big thanks to all the people who have developed this and made it opensource! A little background on my setup. I'm running a WSM 22". Right now I've just added a Cajun Bandit SS door and I have some Nomex gasket that I have yet to install. I have found it difficult to regulate temp on WSM for long periods of time. I can get it dialed in and it'll run steady for a little while, but ultimately temp shoots up or drops down. I really want to do a Heatermeter build, but have a few questions regarding features/capabilities and how to go about build. I definitely want to go the rPi route with wireless for remote control ability.

1) I saw the sticky for the roto damper and think I would definitely want to incorporate this into the build. I love the idea of having both the fan and the the servo damper to control temps. I do not have access to a 3D printer so where/who can I order this from? How will I attach this to my WSM?

2) Related to 1), it looks like to Roto Damper uses this thermocouple developed here: http://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?579...ouple-And-two-probe-board-V6-1(Final-Version) and then connects via ethernet to the HM. I love the idea of having the probes come off this unit and then just one cord going to HM and that I can have HM in garage safely out of the elements. I was surprised units like CyberQ/Stoker don't have this ability. Is there a way to make this wireless somehow? Obviously would still need power going to the fan, but think it would be cool to have it be wireless control from HM to Roto Damper.

3) Does the HM support control over multiple pits? What changes do I need to make to standard plans if possible? Not really a big deal for me, but just thinking it would be nice to be able to run the ol kettle with this setup as well for big parties.

Can't wait do get something like this up and running. Will make those overnight brisket cooks taste even better with a good nights rest.

Thanks in advance for any help!
john

I'll try an answer these:
1 = there is a sticky about 3d printing , etc about who prints and sells what. as for connecting to WSM check for threads on burners or connecting to smokers.
2 = totally wireless is no, will still need Ethernet cable.
3 = Heatmeter will only control One smoker/bbq at a time.

Dave Smith said:

I'll try an answer these:
1 = there is a sticky about 3d printing , etc about who prints and sells what. as for connecting to WSM check for threads on burners or connecting to smokers.
2 = totally wireless is no, will still need Ethernet cable.
3 = Heatmeter will only control One smoker/bbq at a time.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the clarification! Yeah I was reading the stickys and posts a bit more and didn't see anything about the wireless capability I was referring to and controlling one pit at a time will be fine for me for now. I guess I can always build another one if I really felt the need to run two pits. I already sent an email to someone listed in the stickys about ordering some 3D printed parts. I'm not in a huge rush to build it as it will be getting pretty cold here in Wisconsin soon and my smoking will probably be rather limited until spring.

I have an additional question on the thermocouple add-on to the Heatermeter PCB. So is my understanding correct in that the thermocouple replaces one of the 4 thermistor type probe inputs on the regular board? This leaves 3 standard thermistor (Maverick) type probes and 1 k-type thermocouple probe. Is that correct? Is there a way to make it have more than one thermocouple probe or does it just support the 1? From what I've been reading it looks like just the one?

How does the Heatermeter Aux. Thermocouple (http://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?579...ouple-And-two-probe-board-V6-1(Final-Version)) attach to the board? Looks like it just connects via an ethernet port. Does this connect to the rPi or the Heatermeter PCB? Do I need to get the thermocouple board add-on if this Aux. Thermocouple already has it?

Thanks for all the help!
John

John Pie said:

I have an additional question on the thermocouple add-on to the Heatermeter PCB. So is my understanding correct in that the thermocouple replaces one of the 4 thermistor type probe inputs on the regular board? This leaves 3 standard thermistor (Maverick) type probes and 1 k-type thermocouple probe. Is that correct? Is there a way to make it have more than one thermocouple probe or does it just support the 1? From what I've been reading it looks like just the one?

Click to expand...

Your understanding is correct. Your options on the main Heatermeter PCB are either 4 x thermistor probes or 1 x TC + 3 x thermistor probes.

The Heatermeter will handle 4 x TC probes, you'll just need to find a way to add in 3 more TC amps / circuits.

John Pie said:

How does the Heatermeter Aux. Thermocouple (http://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?579...ouple-And-two-probe-board-V6-1(Final-Version)) attach to the board? Looks like it just connects via an ethernet port. Does this connect to the rPi or the Heatermeter PCB? Do I need to get the thermocouple board add-on if this Aux. Thermocouple already has it?

Thanks for all the help!
John

Click to expand...

The RDTC Aux board has 1 x TC + 2 x thermistor probes. It's got all of the TC amp circuitry on the board, so you don't need the TC amp on the Heatermeter if you plan to always use your TC probe with the Aux PCB. It connects back to the Heatermeter via the Rj45 jack on the Heatermeter PCB, not the RasPi.

You could probably design a larger Aux board that has 3 x TC amps / jacks on it.

Steve_M said:

Your understanding is correct. Your options on the main Heatermeter PCB are either 4 x thermistor probes or 1 x TC + 3 x thermistor probes.

The Heatermeter will handle 4 x TC probes, you'll just need to find a way to add in 3 more TC amps / circuits.



The RDTC Aux board has 1 x TC + 2 x thermistor probes. It's got all of the TC amp circuitry on the board, so you don't need the TC amp on the Heatermeter if you plan to always use your TC probe with the Aux PCB. It connects back to the Heatermeter via the Rj45 jack on the Heatermeter PCB, not the RasPi.

You could probably design a larger Aux board that has 3 x TC amps / jacks on it.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info! As far as me designing a larger Aux board, I think I'd have to go back to school to learn to do something like that. LOL. And although it would be very cool, I finally just recently graduated and have a job in my field of study (not in computers or engineering , I wasn't that smart), so maybe down the road. I did take Java for a couple years in high school, but sadly never kept at it.

One follow-up question to the Aux board. So can I install the thermocouple to the Heatermeter PCB to do the 1 TC and 3 Maverick configuration as well as having the RJ45 jack for the Aux board that would go in the RD3? This would allow use of HM as more of a standalone without the RD3 if I wanted to use different fan or different pit (Only have one now, but I'm looking to future-proof as much as possible and might as well add it on now during the build.)

Thanks!
John

Just ordered the HeaterMeter kit with TC and fan. Also placed an Amazon order for the following componenets:

SD Card (Checked rPi compatibility): Kingston 16 GB Class 4 SDHC Flash Memory Card SD4/16GBET-
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0021L9BKQ/tvwb-20

Wifi adapter: Edimax EW-7811Un 150Mbps 11n Wi-Fi USB Adapter-
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B003MTTJOY/tvwb-20

Power supply: iMBAPrice® 12V DC Wall Power Adapter - 5.5mmx 2.1mm plug 2A(2000MA) UL Listed -
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00GUT7FQ2/tvwb-20

Is this power supply going to work with HM? Wiki says to get "12V 1A (or greater) power adapter with 2.1mm barrel jack (tip positive)". I got a 12V 2A since it had good reviews and looked like a decent price and was UL Listed. Work with a forum member to get case and other parts.

Thanks!
John

Since the RDTC connects via CAT5 cable to the HM like any other standard setup you always have the option to use another blower just by wiring up that blower with its own CAT5 cable and plugging that into the HM instead of plugging in the RD3.

The standard (food) probe jacks on the HM have a switch built into them, so when you jumper the external (RDTC) food probes to the switched leg on the HM probe jacks the external probes will function by default but if you plug a probe directly into the HM that probe will function instead.

The TC Pit Probe does complicate things, because you can only connect one TC at a time to Probe 0 (Pit Probe) on the HM at a time because the TC jack/amp does not have a switch built into it. You can use a switch there to select between the HM TC and the RDTC TC Pit Probe if you want to have the option to plug the TC Pit Probe into either the RDTC or directly into the HM.

RalphTrimble said:

Since the RDTC connects via CAT5 cable to the HM like any other standard setup you always have the option to use another blower just by wiring up that blower with its own CAT5 cable and plugging that into the HM instead of plugging in the RD3.

The standard (food) probe jacks on the HM have a switch built into them, so when you jumper the external (RDTC) food probes to the switched leg on the HM probe jacks the external probes will function by default but if you plug a probe directly into the HM that probe will function instead.

The TC Pit Probe does complicate things, because you can only connect one TC at a time to Probe 0 (Pit Probe) on the HM at a time because the TC jack/amp does not have a switch built into it. You can use a switch there to select between the HM TC and the RDTC TC Pit Probe if you want to have the option to plug the TC Pit Probe into either the RDTC or directly into the HM.

Click to expand...

Switch route is the way I think I'd want to go then. See email I sent you with more detail. Thanks!