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Thread: The Adapt-a-Damper - Open Source Project

  1. #311
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    Mr.? MR.? MISTER?!!!!!!! That's my brother you're talking about......

    Nice work.

  2. #312
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    Well, I finally anodized the AlumaDamper (again, I know. Stupid name). I'm not really happy with the anodizing job. I don't think I cleaned the parts good enough before the acid bath, but I'm OK with it. Do and Learn.

    [IMG][/IMG]

  3. #313
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    <shrug> Looks fine to me. Name fits as well.

    Now that it's anodized and not bare aluminum on bare aluminum, how's the sticktion? Even with being something like 3x heavier, I'd expect the shutter to work more freely.

  4. #314
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    Quote Originally Posted by JKalchik View Post
    <shrug> Looks fine to me. Name fits as well.

    Now that it's anodized and not bare aluminum on bare aluminum, how's the sticktion? Even with being something like 3x heavier, I'd expect the shutter to work more freely.
    Yeah, it actually moves quite freely. I did sand on the mating surface on a granite block to make sure they were really flat before anodizing. I was originally afraid the MG90S wouldn't have enough balls to move the disc freely, but it seems to have no issues.

  5. #315
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    I just got my adapt a damper! Bryanís HM site made it really easy. Iíve noticed that when itís fully closed, there is still a slight gap. I was able to lower the first servo number on HM config page but since powering it back on, it has the gap again. Iíll check the settings again, but do you have any tips for closing the gap?

    Thank you

  6. #316
    TVWBB Honor Circle Bryan Mayland's Avatar
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    The servos have a bit of mechanical and electrical slop in them so it is best to go a little extra beyond the closed position to account for the deadband and mechanical inaccuracy. Also make sure the faces of the top and the body aren't sticking such that there's an initial force to overcome before it starts moving, or the servo won't be able to make that small adjustment. The disc should move freely with no resistance at all. If there's some resistance, try loosening the servo arm screw. The parts can also be cleaned to remove any residue from the printing process and I've found that just buffing with a towel for a few minutes can also make the surface a little more slippery.
    I'm that HeaterMeter guy what ruins everybody's free time.

  7. #317
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    Hi WBegg,

    My first post on this forum. I was pointed to here when I asked about a PID controller for my Kamado Joe. I'm looking at getting all the pieces lined up to assemble the heatermeter kit and also a blower/damper. A question on the adapt-a-damper.

    I have access to a 3D printer. So I was going to just print the parts myself. I looked at the Thingiverse repo for your design files.
    To have a adapt-a-damper it looks like I need to print:

    TopCase_MG90S_Threaded.stl
    BottomCaseBox_V2.stl
    BttmCase_MG90S_Threaded.stl

    with these 3 being the newest updated STLs? Is this correct? Then print out:
    TopDisc_2Hole.stl last updated 01-15-16

    I would be using a MG90S... since it looks like the threaded design is the way to go.

    I'm assuming the 6.5CFM fan is good enough for a Kamado Joe Big Joe 2? Or should I go for a 15 cfm adapt-a-damper?

    Lastly... Can I Use a MG90D instead of a MG90S? It looks like the MG90S made by Tower Pro isn't so easy to find and many places are claiming the MG90D is the upgraded replacement version to MG90S. Else I would need to buy some offbrand one from ebay or amazon. I honestly don't know much about servos.

  8. #318
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayzon View Post
    Hi WBegg,

    My first post on this forum. I was pointed to here when I asked about a PID controller for my Kamado Joe. I'm looking at getting all the pieces lined up to assemble the heatermeter kit and also a blower/damper. A question on the adapt-a-damper.

    I have access to a 3D printer. So I was going to just print the parts myself. I looked at the Thingiverse repo for your design files.
    To have a adapt-a-damper it looks like I need to print:

    TopCase_MG90S_Threaded.stl
    BottomCaseBox_V2.stl
    BttmCase_MG90S_Threaded.stl

    with these 3 being the newest updated STLs? Is this correct? Then print out:
    TopDisc_2Hole.stl last updated 01-15-16

    I would be using a MG90S... since it looks like the threaded design is the way to go.

    I'm assuming the 6.5CFM fan is good enough for a Kamado Joe Big Joe 2? Or should I go for a 15 cfm adapt-a-damper?

    Lastly... Can I Use a MG90D instead of a MG90S? It looks like the MG90S made by Tower Pro isn't so easy to find and many places are claiming the MG90D is the upgraded replacement version to MG90S. Else I would need to buy some offbrand one from ebay or amazon. I honestly don't know much about servos.
    Yeah, the above files are correct. As far as the MG90D, it is digital, and I have had some issues running digital servos with the HM. I can send you an MG90S if you would like one. I get them directly from Tower Pro, so they are definitely genuine.

    You should have no issues running the stock Delta fan (6.7 CFM) with your Joe. Kamados are efficient enough that it shouldn't take much to get up to temp. You might want to verify that with other forum members using a similar setup, though.

  9. #319
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    one more question. Is everything just friction fit together? Or super glued together?

  10. #320
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayzon View Post
    ....... snip.............

    Lastly... Can I Use a MG90D instead of a MG90S? It looks like the MG90S made by Tower Pro isn't so easy to find and many places are claiming the MG90D is the upgraded replacement version to MG90S. Else I would need to buy some offbrand one from ebay or amazon. I honestly don't know much about servos.
    I just printed an Adapt-a-Damper and since I'm a serious RC modeler, I figured I could find a servo to fit by rooting around in my servo supply bin. I must have a hundred servos of various kinds. Surely, I thought, one will fit. Short answer, NO...... none of my servos fit the MG90 topcase.

    Rather than buy a special servo, since I have tons of them, I redrew the topcase to fit one of my existing servos of which I have plenty.

    I knew about some potential compatibility problems, such as the size of the splined drive shaft and the size/shape of the servo arm. But it turns out that the other dimensions are just enough different so that even with some sanding and carving, I couldn't make something I had on hand work. So I ended up doing some drafting and printing which was really more effort than it was worth.

    The distance from the mounting pads to the base of the drive spline is critical; otherwise, the rotating disc won't seal properly or it will have too much friction.

    My advice is to simply purchase a correct servo to match the fan/damper unit you intend to use.

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