1989 Red Genesis (3?) Restoration + some questions


 
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Owen J. Kelly

New member
Hello all - I purchased this Weber gas grill off Craigslist last week for $50. Unfortunately I don't have a truck, so I had to get a friend to pick it up without me and paid him $25 for his efforts. He inspected it but he missed a few issues. The biggest was that the middle burner had apparently rusted through, and Mr. Previous Owner decided a random tube (a tent pole?!) with holes poked in it would be a sufficient replacement. It works, surprisingly, bit doesn't seem very safe. Also the firebox is warped, which probably happened when the middle burner disintegrated. I managed to fix the warping somewhat with a pipe clamp.

I believe the grill is from 1989 as the serial # starts with L7. The model number printed on the sticker is 470000, which doesn't correspond with the Genesis 3, but they look the same. Any thoughts on that?

Anyway, I am pretty impressed with it. I've never owned a Weber LP grill, but my first impressions are pretty good! It's cleaning up so nicely I am questioning whether it is really from 1989.

Burners are on their way from Amazon. Already got a new thermometer and matching knobs. Still need a rocker for the ignition, and some new grates. Hopefully I can find some reasonably priced stainless that will fit it.

I have several questions:

1) Is there anything special that should be done to fix the chipped porcelain, or can I just paint over the chips with some porcelain repair paint?
2) The logo is attached with friction fit connectors. How would I go about removing them to re-paint? If I Dremel them off, what is the best way to reattach the logo?
3) Any source for catch pan rails? The previous owner drilled holes in the firebox to hold the catch pan on. The catch pan mounts look a bit questionable, though.
 
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Pretty sure that's a Genesis 3. These should work for the drip rails.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00KDNNH68/tvwb-20

Or here:

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/bottom-tray-rails-with-hardware-p-1476259.html

For the friction clips, see if you can get a razor or something under the clip and then start working/prying them loose. If that doesn't work, cut the actual clips and not the posts.

Not sure about painting the porcelain. Biggest question would be how the paint handles the heat.
 
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Congrats on that classic and welcome to the forum. If you could post some pics of the grill it would help to answer some of your questions.

See the link in red for picture instructions.

Link For Pictures
 
I bought bars fro rcplanebuyer on eBay also sales grates.
My 1999 is in good enough shape to make it my main gasser.
My red porcelain top had a few small dings & I fixed with high heat engine enamel. Sprayed a qtip & put 2-3 coats on can't tell from 2 ft away anything was done.
There are less expensive grates & bars on eBay if this is going to be an infrequently used grill. It hurt to pay more for flavorizer bars than I did for the grill!
 
Thank you all for the tips!

I ran into another problem today. The screws inside the firebox that hold the burners in place have rusted solid. Tried cutting the slot down with a Dremel but they won't budge. Would PB Blaster help?

Here are some photos - tried to add them to my original post but it wasn't working.

G9KVFto.jpg



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Of course you can't just buy a grill and not use it the same day...


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The tent pole special.


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Porcelain chipped on the catch pan.
 
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Looks to be in pretty good shape given it's age. The screws on the burners aren't supposed to come out. Remove the manifold instead and the burners should slide out through the right side of the firebox. Look at the manifold in the 2nd to last pic. See the 2 flat metal pieces that go from the manifold to the firebox? Each should attach to the firebox with a bolt and a wingnut.
 
Well, that's good to know, Dave. If I had actually read those PDFs I downloaded from Weber last week I probably wouldn't have asked... Doh!

Anyway, got the logo off after jamming a razor blade and a putty knife under the push nut. 26 years of accumulated gunk was making it hard to see what was going on there.

Does anyone know why Weber switched their center burner design to a single row of holes on top of the burner instead of a row on either side? Seems like the excess heat would cause the flavorizer bar over that burner to deteriorate faster.

Just ordered some square tubing end caps. I should have 6 extras. If anyone needs a set, PM me. I'd ask the recipient to pay for shipping, but that's it!
 
The center top ported burner is much more efficient and burns more evenly. What Dave said on the burners. We see more people on here trying to get those out and there is no reason to. Go with RCPlanebuyer SS bars and you'll never buy another set....................really. Same with his grates. Best things you'll ever use
 
What LM said I have a set of RCPlanebuyers SS flavorizer bars that have been in my 1999 1000LX for about 5 years and they still look like new. The man makes some great stuff!
 
Those grates you see are stamped enamel coated steel. OK to hold the food off the fire but not much more
 
Owen J. Kelly said:
Thank you all for the tips!
Here are some photos - tried to add them to my original post but it wasn't working.

G9KVFto.jpg
Click to expand...

I have a 2004 Genesis Gold C that the bottom tray rusted out on, so all I have remaining are the two front to back support rails attached to the frame. Because that solid metal bottom tray is absurdly expensive, I was thinking of buying tubing for the front and back side to side rails, and doing wood planks like your grill has. I was hoping someone could help me with dimensions for those z brackets that sit on the square tube, and create a shelf for the wood planks, and if they happen to still be available. If not, I was planning on coming up with something myself. I've kept my eyes out on this forum and through Craigslist seeing if I could figure it out, but I haven't found any concrete details on them.
 
Shane Duff said:
I have a 2004 Genesis Gold C that the bottom tray rusted out on, so all I have remaining are the two front to back support rails attached to the frame. Because that solid metal bottom tray is absurdly expensive, I was thinking of buying tubing for the front and back side to side rails, and doing wood planks like your grill has. I was hoping someone could help me with dimensions for those z brackets that sit on the square tube, and create a shelf for the wood planks, and if they happen to still be available. If not, I was planning on coming up with something myself. I've kept my eyes out on this forum and through Craigslist seeing if I could figure it out, but I haven't found any concrete details on them.
Click to expand...


Shane, the bottom panel for a C came up in another thread recently and it got me to thinking. The shorter panel for a B is part #60426 and is only $33.08 + shipping from Ereplacements. What about buying 2 of them and going after them with a metal cutter and riveting them together ?
 
Shane Duff said:
I have a 2004 Genesis Gold C that the bottom tray rusted out on, so all I have remaining are the two front to back support rails attached to the frame. Because that solid metal bottom tray is absurdly expensive, I was thinking of buying tubing for the front and back side to side rails, and doing wood planks like your grill has. I was hoping someone could help me with dimensions for those z brackets that sit on the square tube, and create a shelf for the wood planks, and if they happen to still be available. If not, I was planning on coming up with something myself. I've kept my eyes out on this forum and through Craigslist seeing if I could figure it out, but I haven't found any concrete details on them.
Click to expand...

Here you go. Sounds like Dave's plan may be easier.

Vdb9J47.jpg
 
I believe that is a Weber 3000. I had one that was a rustbucket and salvaged parts for a 1000 restoration I was working on.

Used the remaining parts to make this.

100_3013.jpg
 
DaveW said:
Shane, the bottom panel for a C came up in another thread recently and it got me to thinking. The shorter panel for a B is part #60426 and is only $33.08 + shipping from Ereplacements. What about buying 2 of them and going after them with a metal cutter and riveting them together ?
Click to expand...

Owen J. Kelly said:
Here you go. Sounds like Dave's plan may be easier.

Vdb9J47.jpg
Click to expand...

Thank you both for the help and suggestions.

DaveW, I think my main concern is living in the Pacific Northwest, replacing the bottom tray with another solid metal variant is just going to rust out in a matter of time as the moisture collects during the winter months. So I am thinking that for the $70+ it would take to use a solid tray, I would just go with creating a tube, "z bracket" and wood slats myself for around the same cost. That's my thinking anyway, who knows how it'll work out.

Owen, thanks for the dimensions as well, that'll help get something that should work out. I like the graph paper too, it seems so official :)
 
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