RDTC boards arrived


 
T

Thomas K

TVWBB Member
9/24 I ordered a batch of three "Heatermeter Adapter Boards V6.3" from OSH Park - they ship worldwide at no extra cost - nice. Shortly after that I got an email, that my order was upgraded to super swift service at no extra cost - even nicer. Today I received the letter with the boards. Now I have to source the other parts and collect all the information available in the forum:
I can get the TC jack from here: http://de.farnell.com/newport-electronics/pcc-smp-k/thermoelementanschluss-typ-k/dp/2292982 (shipping exceeds the price of the jack)
and the Mouser components from mouser.de (though they charge €20 for shipping if the order is < €60 (which is about the cost of the parts for three boards :( - maybe I should build three of them))

But now I've got a couple of questions:
  1. I plan to connect a servo and a fan, the TC pit probe and two food probes. I have t use the 3.3v Regulator according to http://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?57901-Heatermeter-Aux-Thermocouple-And-two-probe-board-V6-1(Final-Version)&p=642282&viewfull=1#post642282 and first column of http://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?46004-INTRODUCING-the-quot-Roto-Damper-quot&p=636427&viewfull=1#post636427?
  2. I found the schematic picture, which wires have to go the the cat5 jack at the HM board (first column of http://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?46004-INTRODUCING-the-quot-Roto-Damper-quot&p=636427&viewfull=1#post636427), but did not find a photo, showing where to connect the wires exactly (or did I miss it in the huge thread?). I made one of my HM:

    Did I get it correctly?
  3. There are some notes regarding a switch, to select either internal or external TC. Unfortunately I did not find a picture, showing how to wire it (or I can not spot it right on this picture http://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?46004-INTRODUCING-the-quot-Roto-Damper-quot&p=641670&viewfull=1#post641670). Maybe somebody can mark it at my picture of the board? And how about the food probes? Do they just go in parallel to the ones on the HM board?
  4. I'm trying to get the approval for a 3D printer :) - are the stl-files available for the litte box, holding the RDTC board?
  5. If http://www.mouser.de/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=161-3403-Evirtualkey11180000virtualkey161-3403-E is available I can omit http://www.mouser.de/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=MJ1-2502virtualkey51780000virtualkey490-MJ1-2502?
  6. Did I miss something?
Thanks in advance!
 
I have all of the same questions and am glad you took the time to write this up :) I am pretty much at the same part of my build. I have to install my LCD, finish up the rest of the HM, and then get to the RDTC.
 
ExcCjyZ.jpg
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Sorry about the lack of information on the Rdtc thread. I have been wanting to update the Op with more instructions, but with a newbaby, new job for both my wife and I and moving across the US, I have not found the time. It's on the to do list though.

John
 
Gee Dave, you could at least give a guy some credit if you are going to post his work.
 
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Dave Smith said:
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@Dave, thanks for sharing!

RalphTrimble said:
Gee Dave, you could at least give a guy some credit if you are going to post his work.
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@Ralph, thanks for creating!

John Bostwick said:
Sorry about the lack of information on the Rdtc thread. I have been wanting to update the Op with more instructions, but with a newbaby, new job for both my wife and I and moving across the US, I have not found the time. It's on the to do list though.

John
Click to expand...
@John, no worries about that! New baby deserves priority!
 
Dave Smith said:
ExcCjyZ.jpg
[/IMG]
Click to expand...

I have a TC HM board with a switch with the RDTC box. So I am crystal clear on the switch wiring, can someone please confirm these steps as I work from top to bottom on the image above:

1) Wire ground from the 12V jack to pin 8 of the Cat5 jack
2) Wire pin 1 of the Cat5 jack to the offset pin of the food probe adjacent to the TC probe
3) Wire pin 2 of the Cat5 jack to the offset pin of the middle food probe
4) Wire pin 7 of the Cat5 jack to the top leg of the black side of the switch
5) Wire the middle leg of the switch to the resistor side of the 100K resistor behind the TC jack
6) Wire the bottom leg of the switch to the wire side of the 100K resistor behind the TC jack

Assuming this is correct, does it make a difference which side of the switch I wire to? I just want to make sure as I look at the orientation of the switch in relation to the pins I need to wire from as I do a test fit in the case to see what the easiest route is to wire this up.
 
That is all correct. Though on item 5-6 "resistor side"/"wire side" is a bit vague (though I think you have it right) The wire from the center lug of the switch must go through the 100K resistor and connect to the hole nearest the ATMega where that resistor is removed from. The other empty hole from that resistor gets a wire that goes to the bottom leg of the switch.
It doesn't matter which half of the switch you use, they are identical... I use a DPDT switch because the second side is needed if you have an RDTC and a Standard Pit Probe to switch in/out the 10K pullup resistor. So the DPDT switch can be used in either case, but if you have TC at both ends you only need to use half of the switch.
 
RalphTrimble said:
That is all correct. Though on item 5-6 "resistor side"/"wire side" is a bit vague (though I think you have it right) The wire from the center lug of the switch must go through the 100K resistor and connect to the hole nearest the ATMega where that resistor is removed from. The other empty hole from that resistor gets a wire that goes to the bottom leg of the switch.
It doesn't matter which half of the switch you use, they are identical... I use a DPDT switch because the second side is needed if you have an RDTC and a Standard Pit Probe to switch in/out the 10K pullup resistor. So the DPDT switch can be used in either case, but if you have TC at both ends you only need to use half of the switch.
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On 5/6, I was just referring to the sides that had the resistor flush with the board and then the other side where the wire was all that was going through. Are we still on the same page?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzSBmZGY0VqYXzhrVDY0V2xJTkE/view
 
Yes, the side that has the larger circle around it on the silk screen on the board is where you need to connect the center lug through the 100K resistor.

I hadn't actually noticed the board had a circle around one leg on those resistors, didn't expect or look for that since resistors have no polarity and it matters not which side you put the body or the wire other than physically where the part sits and/or the bare wire runs.

Looking at your pic, you can leave that resistor in place and lift the bare wire end from the board, solder the wire from the center lug of the switch to the lifted end of the resistor. Then solder a wire into the hole where you lifted out the resistor leg, connect that wire to the bottom lug of the switch.
 
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RalphTrimble said:
Yes, the side that has the larger circle around it on the silk screen on the board is where you need to connect the center lug through the 100K resistor.

I hadn't actually noticed the board had a circle around one leg on those resistors, didn't expect or look for that since resistors have no polarity and it matters not which side you put the body or the wire other than physically where the part sits and/or the bare wire runs.

Looking at your pic, you can leave that resistor in place and lift the bare wire end from the board, solder the wire from the center lug of the switch to the lifted end of the resistor. Then solder a wire into the hole where you lifted out the resistor leg, connect that wire to the bottom lug of the switch.
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Ah, ok. I get it now. I think the easiest thing for me to do would be to snip the wire on the resistor and wire each as you stated, leaving both holes in the board untouched. That would work fine, right?
 
yah, but you'd have to piggy back solder the wire to the piece of resistor leg that is left in the board, and I suspect when you attempt to do that the solder that holds it on the board will melt and it will come loose, making the job harder not easier... I would just remove as much solder from that leg as possible and then heat the solder joint while pulling the leg out of the board. But your call, whatever way gets it done...
 
Going to order the parts from Mouser, there are two types of 2.5mm jacks in the project (I'm going to build the board w/ two thermistors and TC):
If https://www.mouser.de/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=161-3403-Evirtualkey11180000virtualkey161-3403-E is available I can omit https://www.mouser.de/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=MJ1-2502virtualkey51780000virtualkey490-MJ1-2502 as the hint suggests?
Do they have the same layout (pictures in product page seem different, but drawings in datasheets look identical)?
 
Thomas K said:
Going to order the parts from Mouser, there are two types of 2.5mm jacks in the project (I'm going to build the board w/ two thermistors and TC):
If https://www.mouser.de/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=161-3403-Evirtualkey11180000virtualkey161-3403-E is available I can omit https://www.mouser.de/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=MJ1-2502virtualkey51780000virtualkey490-MJ1-2502 as the hint suggests?
Do they have the same layout (pictures in product page seem different, but drawings in datasheets look identical)?
Click to expand...

You want the jack with all 3 pins in line for the RDTC board.
 
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The picture on the first item you linked is wrong at Mouser. If you load the datasheet you will see that part actually looks like the part in your second link, NOT like the illustration they show on the Mouser page. One part costs about 2X the other, but they are identical in form and function. Unfortunately the less expensive type had been on back order from Mouser for quite some time, hence the link provided for the alternate part....

PS I have ordered the ones with the odd/wrong illustration and did indeed receive the correct jacks with 3 leg output on the bottom, not parts that look like their illustration. I actually emailed Mouser about the improper illustration on this item and apparently they don't care because they haven't changed it...
 
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Do they have to ship them to you from the USA? Perhaps there is a supplier in Germany that can sell you the same parts? Search local suppliers using the Manufacturer Part numbers:
Kobiconn: 161-3403-E
CUI: MJ1-2502
 
Mouser has a german website and a branch in Munich, not sure where they ship from. I already tried to find the needed parts at different german electronic suppliers, but was not successful for most of the parts :(
They charge 20€ if the order is <60€. Will try to find some tools to order with my parts to get the order >60€.
 
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