Genesis Hood Dissasembly


 
B

Brian Lieder

TVWBB Member
I have a beautiful redhead, but the sides of the hood has flaking paint. I want to replace the sides, and i know that the sides come apart via 6 (i think) bolts on each side.

My question is how do you break them loose? The bolt spins with the nut, and theres no head to get ahold of on the outside, it's just round.
 
Brian Lieder said:
I have a beautiful redhead, but the sides of the hood has flaking paint. I want to replace the sides, and i know that the sides come apart via 6 (i think) bolts on each side.

My question is how do you break them loose? The bolt spins with the nut, and theres no head to get ahold of on the outside, it's just round.
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Not a direct answer to your question, but I've "restored" a good number of Genny's and have never taken the hood apart. Sand it down, mask off the lid with newspaper and painters tape and paint. Sometimes, I don't even go that far. I slide a thin piece of cardboard under the lip of the end cap and spray that area. Then, move cardboard to the next area and spray. Even with my lack of talent as a painter and generally being a clutz, I've never had a problem with either method.
 
The bolts I have removed on Genesis 1000-5500 series hoods are attached with a 'hollow' self threading sort of nut. If I cannot get them to undo, you can lever/cut them off fairly easily. But it does destroy them.

You can get a replacment set of the same bolts/nuts from the parts suppliers, but I just go to a specialist hardware shop and get some SS Allen bolts/spring washers/nuts to fit.

Adds a bit of 'bling'. (and Weber should have used SS in the first place i my opinion...)

They are easier to work on if you pull them apart.
 
The bolts are knurled, which is supposed to hold them in place. Did you clean the threads before you started turning the nuts? If not, you probably stripped the knurls. As suggested above, the nuts are hollow. You can pry them off and replace with SS. They are 1/4-20, if memory serves. No need for lock washers. Yo can probably get OEM from Weber.
 
DaveW said:
Not a direct answer to your question, but I've "restored" a good number of Genny's and have never taken the hood apart. Sand it down, mask off the lid with newspaper and painters tape and paint. Sometimes, I don't even go that far. I slide a thin piece of cardboard under the lip of the end cap and spray that area. Then, move cardboard to the next area and spray. Even with my lack of talent as a painter and generally being a clutz, I've never had a problem with either method.
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What Dave said. So easy to mask, sand and paint without dissassembly.
 
I did already try repainting it with 800 degree paint, but after the first use (then rain, forgot to put the cover back on) it looks way worse than it did before i painted it. Peeled and flaked off in spots, and i know how to paint well enough that it was done right. I think weber sells some better paint than i bought, so i could try that, but i would far prefer to just put new sides on...Im gonna go see if my hardware store has some replacement bolts, i didnt even think of that. Thanks for the advice!
 
Get Rustoleum, it is rated at 1200 deg.

And for my money, take the thing apart. There's a difference between 'restoring' and 'freshening up'. The added effort it takes to do it right is minimal.

when I took my readhead apart I found that the enamel had chipped down to the metal surface in the corners at each bend. It was all hidden behind the aluminum, but that doesn't mean it was protected. After cleaning I masked it off and sprayed it with heat paint. Now I know the metal is protected from rust.
 
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T Waite said:
Get Rustoleum, it is rated at 1200 deg.

And for my money, take the thing apart. There's a difference between 'restoring' and 'freshening up'. The added effort it takes to do it right is minimal.

when I took my readhead apart I found that the enamel had chipped down to the metal surface in the corners at each bend. It was all hidden behind the aluminum, but that doesn't mean it was protected. After cleaning I masked it off and sprayed it with heat paint. Now I know the metal is protected from rust.
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+1000 on the Rustoleum High Heat. Comes in either flat black or gloss.


And yeah, there's a difference between restoring and freshening up. OP said that his paint on the end caps was flaking. Didn't mention anything else that would indicate that a frame off, break it all down restoration was in order.
 
T Waite said:
Worth doing = worth doing right.
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If that's the case, then when paint on the end caps starts to flake, I guess that calls for a total and complete frame off restore. Remove/unscrew every single nut and bolt. Get your grinder out and take the frame and firebox completely down to bare metal. Hit both with a coat or three of primer, then paint. After applying 2 or more layers, get out the 800 or 1000 grit sand paper and give it a nice wet sanding.


Personally ? I'm just going to mask off the lid and give the end caps a light sanding followed by 2 coats of Rustoleum high heat.
 
DaveW said:
If that's the case, then when paint on the end caps starts to flake, I guess that calls for a total and complete frame off restore.
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Yes, that's exactly what I said. That's what it calls for, because everything is black and white, there's no gray. Extremes are the only way to approach anything. You must either do as little as possible or go full tilt.

If you'll read my post, you will note that I qualified my statement with 'for my money' and then explained why I felt that way. I'm sorry this doesn't agree with your assertion, but such is life. We can continue to argue the point or agree to disagree. Either way is fine by me, please let me know.
 
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DaveW said:
If that's the case, then when paint on the end caps starts to flake, I guess that calls for a total and complete frame off restore. Remove/unscrew every single nut and bolt. Get your grinder out and take the frame and firebox completely down to bare metal. Hit both with a coat or three of primer, then paint. After applying 2 or more layers, get out the 800 or 1000 grit sand paper and give it a nice wet sanding.


Personally ? I'm just going to mask off the lid and give the end caps a light sanding followed by 2 coats of Rustoleum high heat.
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It depends on the condition of the rest of the grill...

If you fix the end caps and they look great, but the rest of the grill is beat up, it could easily turn into a full resto. Just like in your kitchen, you replace the countertops with nice granite, then your cabinets look like ****. Replace those, then it's time for new tile.... You gotta pick where you're happy stopping.

Me personally, i agree with T Waite... i like to know it's done right. Painting it would leave me wondering if it's gonna peel at some time, where replacing it leaves me worry free.

Lucky for me, the rest of my grill is ship-shape. this is (probably) the only thing ill do to her and be done with it. Wait... i might be adding quick flip up side tables (took the brackets off a different weber).
 
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I just finished restoring my first Genny. And I tore it all down. I had the same problem as the OP getting the bolts and nuts loose on the hood. I used my Dremel tool with a wire wheel to clean the threads on the bolts and the nuts came off easily by hand. Looks so much better to do the job right ;)
 
T Waite said:
Yes, that's exactly what I said. That's what it calls for, because everything is black and white, there's no gray. Extremes are the only way to approach anything. You must either do as little as possible or go full tilt.

If you'll read my post, you will note that I qualified my statement with 'for my money' and then explained why I felt that way. I'm sorry this doesn't agree with your assertion, but such is life. We can continue to argue the point or agree to disagree. Either way is fine by me, please let me know.
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Just a quick reminder T,



T Waite said:
Worth doing = worth doing right.
Click to expand...


Given your position, this implies that masking off the lid and painting the end caps is somehow wrong, or not "right". So much for no gray.
 
Brian Lieder said:
It depends on the condition of the rest of the grill...

If you fix the end caps and they look great, but the rest of the grill is beat up, it could easily turn into a full resto. Just like in your kitchen, you replace the countertops with nice granite, then your cabinets look like ****. Replace those, then it's time for new tile.... You gotta pick where you're happy stopping.

Me personally, i agree with T Waite... i like to know it's done right. Painting it would leave me wondering if it's gonna peel at some time, where replacing it leaves me worry free.

Lucky for me, the rest of my grill is ship-shape. this is (probably) the only thing ill do to her and be done with it. Wait... i might be adding quick flip up side tables (took the brackets off a different weber).
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Brian, what you ultimately do is up to you of course. I'll point out that I've probably read hundreds of threads about Weber gassers being "refreshed" or "restored" and I have NEVER heard of someone ordering new end caps because of peeling/flaking paint. My disagreement with T Waite wasn't about painting itself, was what steps needed to be taken to paint the end caps. I feel safe in saying that he and I agree that painting the end caps is fine.

But again, it's your grill, your money and your call :cool:
 
DaveW said:
Just a quick reminder T,

Given your position, this implies that masking off the lid and painting the end caps is somehow wrong, or not "right". So much for no gray.
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No, it doesn't, and your reading comprehension skills are very poor. It implies nothing. It flat out states that anything worth doing is worth doing right. The issue you're having is that my 'right' is different than your 'right', which worked fine for me until you got all butt-hurt because someone on the internet had a differing opinion.
 
T Waite said:
No, it doesn't, and your reading comprehension skills are very poor. It implies nothing. It flat out states that anything worth doing is worth doing right. The issue you're having is that my 'right' is different than your 'right', which worked fine for me until you got all butt-hurt because someone on the internet had a differing opinion.
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Tom, my reading comprehension skills are just fine. So is my understanding of the English language. When someone posts a method and you reply with another method and follow that up by saying "Well, if it's worth doing, it's worth doing right", you are in fact saying that the other method is wrong. That goes beyond a mere difference of opinion.
 
I remember painting the gas tank on a 1983 Honda Midnight Maxim (4 cyl 750cc) - however you do it, I hope it turns out better than that :)

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