Community 3D Printer / Assembly / Trading Resources

[Dave Smith]

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[John Bostwick]

Ahh, you need to have a switch andvjumper wires on the heatermeter board. The only way you can see the no pit probe on the display, is if you haven't wired the heatermeter. If you had a problem on the adapter board, then you would have seen a floating pin on the atmega and would have numbers or nothing.

[John Bostwick]

Its kinda hard to see the board, but I can see some pads that dont have enough solder.

And on a side note, I will have some time in the coming weeks to update the adapter thread to include a how-to wiring for the adapter board. Ralph sent me nice picture of what is needed and will have something similar on the thread.

[Dave Smith]

oh ok will wait for that then

[RalphTrimble]

The jumpers on the HM board arent that hard to figure...

To wire the TC Pit Probe (from RDTC) here is what you need to do.

First of all, a TC does not need (or work with) the 10K pullup resistor, so remove it from the HM board. This is one of the two resistors that are standing on end behind the TC jack, it's the one that faces a different direction from all the rest. Remove it.

Second, the other resistor that is standing on end behind the TC jack (next to the cap) is the 100K resistor. You need to lift the leg of that resistor that is furthest away from the ATMega out of the board.

Now, At the CAT5 jack the pin on the lower left corner (looking at the solder side of the HM board) is from the RDTC Pit Probe. Solder a wire to this pin and run it over to the lefted end of the 100K resistor from the previous step.

The pin to the right of pin 7 is pin 8, that is the ground for the TC and probes. Solder a wire to this pin and connect it to a solid ground. The power jack above makes a good ground.

With that your TC Pit Probe from the RDTC should work.

The top two pins (1 & 2) on the CAT5 jack are for the food probes. Run a jumper wire from those pins to food probe 1 and 2. Connect the wire at the food probe jack to the leg of the jack that is in the CENTER, the one that is offset a bit from the rest. This is the switched leg of the jack. If nothing is plugged into the jack on the HM the probe from the CAT5 cable will function, if you plug a probe directly into the HM jack that probe will function instead of the probe from the CAT5 cable.

I recommend using this solid core wire for the jumpers on the HM board, otherwise it might be hard to solder to the CAT5 pins without freyed wires and shorts etc. I use the solid core wire from inside a CAT5 cable, something like the thin solid telephone wire that runs around your house is what you want.

[Dave Smith]

Thanks Ralph will work on that, also I sent you and email.

[RalphTrimble]

Hmm, don't see any email from you?

[Richard Apgood]

what 3D programs have you found to work best for you? including being able to add threads?

[Dave Smith]

For Sale: I have a Heatmeter TC and a Roto Damper I'm not using. Roto damper is wired for pit and 2 food jacks - $30.00; the heatmeter you will need the probes, and power supply - $75.00. Also on the RD the mount is made for 3/4" copper pipe, if you need a different one contact Ralph, he made the RD. Thanks
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[ChrisMueller]

For Sale: I have a Heatmeter TC and a Roto Damper I'm not using. Roto damper is wired for pit and 2 food jacks - $30.00; the heatmeter you will need the probes, and power supply - $75.00. Also on the RD the mount is made for 3/4" copper pipe, if you need a different one contact Ralph, he made the RD. Thanks

Dang, that's tempting, and I don't even need another one.