Weber Genesis Silver B frame cross member rust restoration project


 

B Quinn

New member
shown in a current Craigslist listing, with pics and some detail. Also on the for sale board here, but the important point is that while some advocated trashing the frame entirely, it was very, very simple to cut of the offending crosspiece with a recip. hacksaw and use a steel angle piece from the local hardware, custom cut there, to complete the frame. Angle steel will not likely rust like box steel because of the necessary hole through both sides of box steel for bolt which attaches grill box to frame on left side - water likely got in through hole and couldn't get out, which can't happen with angle steel (no box to hold water, therefore no rust). Anyway, I thought I did nice work. YMMV. http://newjersey.craigslist.org/app/4912963786.html
 
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Good fix...Your grill sure did turn out good . I had to replace mine when I bought it. Got it replaced for $20....one of the best $20 ever spent.
 
Good fix...Your grill sure did turn out good . I had to replace mine when I bought it. Got it replaced for $20....one of the best $20 ever spent.

Interesting. My genesis Silver C rotted in the exact same place. Mostly underneath the cross bar. All blistered on top and a 3" gaping rot hole on the bottom. Now I'm inspired to fix it up. I was thinking I had to find a used frame or weld in a piece. I like this method. :smilekettle:
 
I had one with rust just like yours. I welded in a new piece but like your fix better as I am a bad welder. Great, easy fix anyone can do!
 
Thanks for sharing this project. That is definitely a problem area, I haven't had to replace that piece yet but may have too and this will help.
 
Hey, can I cut the cross member out with a hack saw or rotary Dremel tool? I'll get killed if I buy another power tool.
Thanks-
 
T Lucas, you realize this thread was 3.5 years old????

Anyway, it is probably easier if you simply remove the cook box before cutting that bar out. Then you can buy a piece of square stock (aluminum, stainless steel or regular steel) and get some of those grainger connectors for it and it will look like it is the original after you install and paint it.

But, yes, to answer your question, you could cut that out with a hack saw or angle grinder with a cut off disk. I don't know if I would use a dremel unless it was a high powered one.
 
T the problem with the hacksaw is it will be tough to get a close cut unless you just tried to use the blade out of the holder. Bruce's suggestion of a cutoff wheel on the angle grinder to me would be better. You could get it close then file it flat with a metal flat file.
 

 

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