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Thread: Heatermeter Aux. Thermocouple And two probe board V6.1(Final Version)

  1. #111
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    Look at the diagram I referred to, it does NOT go to the header, goes to the switched leg(s) on the probe jacks.
    I created the Roto Damper, RD3, HMv4.2 sliding back case, "air-burner" and the "ping-pong" valve in my quest for delicious "set and forget" BBQ.

  2. #112
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    My mistake, I see that now. I think that makes it easier. Any suggestions for the best way to hide the switch and resistor, maybe a switch type I'm not thinking of?

  3. #113
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    Hide the switch? A hidden switch that you can't flip doesn't do much good!
    If you're not going to flip the switch because you plan to only use the RDTC pit probe then just eliminate the switch and jumper from pin 7 through the 100k resistor for the pit probe... The 10K resistor can be omitted in this configuration.
    I created the Roto Damper, RD3, HMv4.2 sliding back case, "air-burner" and the "ping-pong" valve in my quest for delicious "set and forget" BBQ.

  4. #114
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    Did you solve the issue with a new IC? My thermocouple was working, but stopped working when I assembled the RD3 together.

  5. #115
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    Update and odd problem. The heatermeter receives a thermocouple temp from the rdtc board if I hold the rj45 Jack and physically rotate the end of the board near the thermocouple clockwise. Is there a test procedure that I can tell where the thermocouple signal is getting held up?

  6. #116
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    If you look at post 55 in this thread here I shared a color code diagram of what pins on the TC amp should be connected to what components. You can use a multimeter in continuity mode to test of they are connected or not... However, you may put enough pressure on them with the meter lead to make the circuit (like when you twist the board)
    If the problem doesn't present itself by testing continuity I would suggest you carefully reflow the solder on resistors and caps first and see if that solves your problem, then reflow the tc IC as a last ditch effort. Use some sort of magnifying device when soldering these small parts if possible.
    I created the Roto Damper, RD3, HMv4.2 sliding back case, "air-burner" and the "ping-pong" valve in my quest for delicious "set and forget" BBQ.

  7. #117
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    Thanks Ralph. I did find post 55 before I posted, and had continuity, but I will try a lighter touch to see if I missed something. I will also reflow and hopefully that will solve it.

  8. #118
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    Well, I tried retouching the resistors and capacitors, but the problem persisted. I finally did the last ditch effort and heated up the TC IC leads on the side next to the potentiometer. That worked. I now have readings even if I flex the board. It must have broken free when the board dragged against the body of the rd3 when I first tried assembling, flexing the circuit board. Unfortunately, the yellow test location under the pot is not available when the board is assembled, so I was not able to test continuity at those locations. Thank you, Ralph for your help and for you and John answering all of my questions by email as well.

  9. #119
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    You should be able to get at that yellow test spot from the other side of the board, but none the less, glad you got it suss'd out!
    I created the Roto Damper, RD3, HMv4.2 sliding back case, "air-burner" and the "ping-pong" valve in my quest for delicious "set and forget" BBQ.

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