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Thread: Finished soldering, lcd has black row of squares...

  1. #11
    TVWBB Guru Steve_M's Avatar
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    You can solder in a small jumper wire between the ones that weren't reading strong.

  2. #12
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    Bryan, rookie mistake, yes that is a anti-static bag the pics were taken on.

    I was able to run 'avrupdate' successfully. At least I don't see a 'fuse error'.



    Steve_M, looks like i'll have to look into adding a jumper wire.

  3. #13
    TVWBB Honor Circle Bryan Mayland's Avatar
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    Well that is excellent news, it means the AVR should be working properly. Sounds like you just need some jumper wires and and you should be in business to the LCD data lines. You may need to do the R/S and E lines as well to the left, which are also connected to that shift register.

  4. #14
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    Gentlemen, thanks! Steve_M, thanks for the suggestion of jumping the two bad leads - that fixed it! Bryan, thanks for the work around to test the s/w install. That gave me hope that this project could be rescued!

    I'm happy to report I'm getting the LCD to show '-No Pit Probe-'. Now to start working on getting a case, and investigating fan options!

  5. #15
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    Well, need to bring this thread back unfortunately. All is functional, but the display. I must have tweaked something when I put it in the case as its back to black squares. I checked the continuity on the ones were I had to add jumpers and all is good there. Before it went to the black squares, it would occasionally have garbled text. I would reboot it and it would be ok. However, thats not the case anymore. Any help troubleshooting would be appreciated!

  6. #16
    TVWBB Diamond Member
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    You could try reflowing the solder on the shift register IC, the LCD data passes through it on the way to the display...

    Here is a diagram showing where the LDC wires connect that I made to help someone else troubleshoot their LCD issues, perhaps it will be helpful to you.

    Last edited by RalphTrimble; 08-09-2016 at 04:33 PM.
    I created the Roto Damper, RD3, HMv4.2 sliding back case, "air-burner" and the "ping-pong" valve in my quest for delicious "set and forget" BBQ.

  7. #17
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    Thanks for the diagram. I went though and checked all the continuity between the green lines and they checked out fine. Do you still recommend reflowing?

  8. #18
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    Since those are all direct traces (with no components in between) I would say testing for continuity would be good enough, it either has it or it dont. (If there were other components connected to a trace there would be the possibility of a branch running on the other side of the board, in which case it would be possible to have continuity on the bottom but not the top of the board. In this case that shouldn't be an issue).
    Did you test continuity to the solder joints on the HM board or the LCD board itself? If you tested the HM side you should go back and test from the LCD side to make sure it is good there. If that's all good the next thing I would suspect is a bad trace on the LCD board itself, they tend to be kinda small and fragile. The LCD should have a header on both sides of the board, test continuity from header to header on the LCD, that might help you find which is the problem trace.
    I created the Roto Damper, RD3, HMv4.2 sliding back case, "air-burner" and the "ping-pong" valve in my quest for delicious "set and forget" BBQ.

  9. #19
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    RalphTrimble - thanks for the suggestion on testing the LCD Board. I did that and found no continutity on the 15 pin.



    Anyway to do a jumper on that?

  10. #20
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    Yah, jumper just like in the image you posted and hope the trace runs from the empty hole to where it needs to go and not through the broken part somehow. Most likely it will, but if not you will have to get a close look at where the broken trace goes and add a jumper to there instead.
    Although I think pins 15/16 are for the backlight so that might not be the problem if you are experiencing an issue other than no backlight....
    Last edited by RalphTrimble; 09-28-2016 at 04:42 PM.
    I created the Roto Damper, RD3, HMv4.2 sliding back case, "air-burner" and the "ping-pong" valve in my quest for delicious "set and forget" BBQ.

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