Ever replaced a gas crossover tube?


 

Ted from Bristow

TVWBB Member
So I bought a Genesis 310 (circa 2010ish) with the 'east/west' burner tube configuration (see my earlier post). It had been well used when I bought it and I knew I'd likely have to replace a few parts. Given the silly low price I paid, this is more than acceptable.
One issue with the grill is that burner tubes #2 and #3 won't light off of #1. I inspected the burner assembly and found the crossover tube to be completely corroded. I called Weber to inquire about a replacement part and they are sending me a new crossover tube.
So I'm curious- has anyone ever replaced 'just' the crossover tube without replacing the entire burner assembly? Is this going to be a PITA?
 
So I bought a Genesis 310 (circa 2010ish) with the 'east/west' burner tube configuration (see my earlier post). It had been well used when I bought it and I knew I'd likely have to replace a few parts. Given the silly low price I paid, this is more than acceptable.
One issue with the grill is that burner tubes #2 and #3 won't light off of #1. I inspected the burner assembly and found the crossover tube to be completely corroded. I called Weber to inquire about a replacement part and they are sending me a new crossover tube.
So I'm curious- has anyone ever replaced 'just' the crossover tube without replacing the entire burner assembly? Is this going to be a PITA?

Hey Ted-

I can't help you since I've never replaced the tube, but have you considered just biting the bullet and doing the burners now too? If the tube is toast, the burners may not have a lot of life left in them and doing it all now would save you the trouble later...

Just a thought. Easy for me to spend your money, isn't it?
 
It's simple to replace the crossover tubes and those are the first to go. Not always necessary to replace the main tubes.
 
Looks to be very similar to replacing tubes in an older Genesis B/C. Pull the control knobs. Remove the screw on back of the side control panel cover and carefully pull the cover up. Remove the igniter.

You'll see 2 brackets holding the gas manifold in place. Remove the screws and pull manifold away from the burner tubes. Remove grates and flavorizer bars. There should be a screw/bolt on the far left of the front and back burner tubes that hold the tubes in place. Loosen these if need be and slide the burner tubes towards the right. Goal here is to move the tubes far enough so that the ends clear the screw and you can raise the ends of the tubes.

Grab your new cross over tube and insert into the hole of the front burner. Slide the middle burner tube into it's slot under the cross over tube then insert into the hole in the rear burner tube. BTW, I believe the holes in the cross over tube should be pointing in towards the middle of the grill. Lower the ends of the tubes back down and slot the front and rear tubes back under the screws on the left. Insert burner valves back into the tubes. Fasten manifold bracket. Put igniter back in place. Put control panel cover back on and tighten screw at rear. Replace control knobs.



Here's a link to the user manual for a 2009 E-310.

http://c929377.r77.cf2.rackcdn.com/Genesis_310320_LP_OwnersGuide_89555_022008.pdf


Instructions and illustrations for replacing the burners start on page 19.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I recieved the new tube today and immediately began installation. I ran into some trouble as the screw that holds down the center burner was seized and the outside of the screwhead and screwdriver slot stripped out. I used a dremel with a cutting wheel to enlarge the screwdriver slot, hammered a flathead screwdriver into place, and used a pair of visegrips to break it free. Besides that, all went smoothly. I was able to move the burner tubes enough to remove the old tube and install the new without taking the manifold assempbly apart.
Its nice to no longer have to light burners 2/3 with a long-nosed lighter.
 
There is nothing holding the burners in except the valve assembly. You remove the valve assembly and slide the burners out. I think you FUBAR'd your grill
 
There is nothing holding the burners in except the valve assembly. You remove the valve assembly and slide the burners out. I think you FUBAR'd your grill

Hmmm. There are clearly three screws that hold the burner tubes in-place on the left side of the grill. No doubt there. I modified one of the screws (that was seized), so that I could break it free. I installed the new crossover tube, and put everything back together. Then I cooked 7 burgers for dinner. Everything worked as advertised. I'm not sure how I "fubar'd" anything?? But I have an open mind and am willing to learn.
 
If you notice, the burner tubes have notches (not holes) in the ends. Those notches slip into the groove/space provided by the screws you removed. What LMichaels basically stated, is there was no reason to remove those screws. Once you remove the gas manifold, each burner tube would have pulled straight out and the new ones slip right back into place.

Don't worry, I used to think I had to remove those screws also until I got into more rehabbing and realized that wasn't the case.
 
If you notice, the burner tubes have notches (not holes) in the ends. Those notches slip into the groove/space provided by the screws you removed. What LMichaels basically stated, is there was no reason to remove those screws. Once you remove the gas manifold, each burner tube would have pulled straight out and the new ones slip right back into place.

Don't worry, I used to think I had to remove those screws also until I got into more rehabbing and realized that wasn't the case.

Your right. A week earlier I had removed the manifold and attempted to remove the tubes in order to clean them. The screws were either over-torqued or corrosion had 'welded' them to the burner tubes. This is actually the point where I discovered the rusted-out crossover tube. In either case, they weren't budging. I was afraid that if I pulled and twisted too much, I'd break the burner tubes. Thus, the screws had to be removed. Well, technically not "removed". Once those were broken free, there was no need to remove the side table and manifold again to replace the crossover tube. It made more sense to remove the screws completely, which gave me plenty of wiggle room to get the new tube in place.
 
You're not supposed to remove them. But it's your time and your grill. Do as you wish. It is sooooooooooo easy to remove the manifold and slide the burners out can't see why anyone would waste their time. Even the Weber instruction manual shows them removed that way.
 
You're not supposed to remove them. But it's your time and your grill. Do as you wish. It is sooooooooooo easy to remove the manifold and slide the burners out can't see why anyone would waste their time. Even the Weber instruction manual shows them removed that way.

Correct.. remove the valves, they slide off the burner tubes. Then the crossover tube lifts out. If you removed that screw and everything, whatever you put in there? make sure it's not torqued down tight. it needs room to flex and move as it heats and cools.
 
Correct.. remove the valves, they slide off the burner tubes. Then the crossover tube lifts out. If you removed that screw and everything, whatever you put in there? make sure it's not torqued down tight. it needs room to flex and move as it heats and cools.

Good advice. I think the previous owner went overboard when torquing the screws which is why I couldn't pull the burner tubes out through the manifold holes. Thus I had to go to the trouble of breaking the screws free. At that point, it made more sense to just remove the screws, install the crossover tube, then reinstall the screws than it did to remove the side table cover and manifold. But whatever. All is well that ends well.
 
Really I am sure it was carbon build up not over torquing the screws as you could tighten them til the cows come home and they cannot tighten down on the burner. Look at how the casting is made to understand
 

 

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