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Thread: HM 4.2.4 3D Printed Case

  1. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew K View Post
    Can anyone tell me which stl file I want? Just built the heatermeter with thermocouple and need a case!
    It all depends on what model Raspberry Pi you have

    RPi Model A:
    BOTTOM - 4.2.4-2L-TC-PiA-BOT-v1.2.stl
    TOP - 4.2.4-2L-TC-PiA-TOP-v1.2.stl

    RPi Model A+:
    BOTTOM - 4.2.4-2L-TC-PiAp-BOT-v1.2.stl
    TOP - 4.2.4-2L-TC-PiAp-TOP-v1.2.stl

    RPi Model B:
    BOTTOM - 4.2.4-2L-TC-PiB-BOT-v1.2.stl
    TOP - 4.2.4-2L-TC-PiB-TOP-v1.2.stl

    Hope that helps.

    For others, Tom has used a great naming convention for the source files that makes it really easy to work out which files you need for your setup:

    Example source file name: 4.2.4-2L-TC-PiB-TOP-v1.2.stl
    4.2.4 - 2L - TC - RPiB - TOP - v1.2
    HM hardware LCD Lines Pit Probe RPi Version Half Revision
    2L - 2 Lines TC - Thermocouple RPiA - Model A TOP - top
    4L - 4 Lines probe - Thermistor RPiAp - Model A+ BOT - bottom
    RPiB - Model B

  2. #122
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    Newby on the PID path here.. I have posted a question here, maybe you can take a look at it. I would like to get a case 3D printed, but i am from the Netherlands, and i don't know how long shipping takes and what it costs.

    I found this website which lists all printers for my home town, but what type of printer should i look for, what material, what accuracy? I have a Pi model B so i should go for this one if i am correct:
    RPi Model B:
    BOTTOM - 4.2.4-2L-TC-PiB-BOT-v1.2.stl
    TOP - 4.2.4-2L-TC-PiB-TOP-v1.2.stl

  3. #123
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    I am waiting on a PM from the OP. I wanted to get one printed as well.

  4. #124
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    I just had this built and the 3mm nuts definately did not fit. I had to drill bigger holes to make it work and some went to far so now I have some bolts I need to grind down. The printer is blaming the design. Have anyone else experienced the same thing?

  5. #125
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    Well M3 nuts are 6.01mm across the points, 5.5mm across the flats. The holes in the model for the nuts are 6.6mm across the points, ~5.7mm on the flats. They're designed to be a tight fit, but in the perfect world they should be fine. My printer has a hard time printing them the right size though, because the filament shrinks a little when it is laid down, and the corners bend in a little. I use a soldering iron on the nuts to warm them up a bit and they slip right in. Tom's printer is superawesomeamazing though and can print it accurately.

  6. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan Mayland View Post
    Well M3 nuts are 6.01mm across the points, 5.5mm across the flats. The holes in the model for the nuts are 6.6mm across the points, ~5.7mm on the flats. They're designed to be a tight fit, but in the perfect world they should be fine. My printer has a hard time printing them the right size though, because the filament shrinks a little when it is laid down, and the corners bend in a little. I use a soldering iron on the nuts to warm them up a bit and they slip right in. Tom's printer is superawesomeamazing though and can print it accurately.
    Hmm wish i knew this before paying for something that didn't fit to spec. Would have chose my printer from 3dhubs a little more carefully. The printer is blaming the design. This is their response.

    "I managed to get a measurement that I feel is pretty accurate from the STL file. I measured the distance across the flats of the nuts to be 5.70mm (.224"). A standard 3mm nut is 5.5mm across the flats (.217"). This should in theory give (.007") clearance for the nuts to seat in the holes. However, there are tolerance factors which can add up to the nut not fitting which is likely what happened in this case. I am a mechanical engineer and cut steel parts on multi-million dollars laser every day that usually hold right around +/-.005" or better. The average width of the human hair is about .004", very small. I think the designer of the parts may be asking for a bit much from the hardware almost everyone is using at a home use level. Some people may be get parts turn out fine because that print happened to be on the + side of the tolerance, while other people may get parts that are on the - side of the tolerance and have fit up issues. The designer could open up the distance across the nut flats another .020" and probably not have any effect on functionality of the part and guarantee fit up every time"
    Last edited by Andrew K; 05-26-2015 at 08:44 PM.

  7. #127
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    Hey everyone, sorry I have been unresponsive. I am currently living between 2 places that are 200 miles apart and have largely been out of contact. Things will be back to normal in a few weeks....

    The nut traps are designed to be tight, very tight. The last thing you want is for the nuts to slip. All you do is thread a nut onto the end of a screw and then use a hammer to gently set into place. The 2 nut traps for the through holes on the bottom of the case that don't have supports extending all the way to the top need to be supported on a wood or metal block before tapping the nuts in or else you can risk pushing them right through the plastic.

    Tom

  8. #128
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    Printed case, what machine and what settings?

    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Kole View Post
    Here is the newest release of the Heatermeter 3D printed case to complement the 4.2.4 boards. We've tried to push the design forward to parallel some of the tremendous progress that Bryan has made with the new boards. This case went through many behind the scenes revisions and we must thank Bryan for all of his help with protoype testing as well as John Bostwick for his feedback.
    What machine did you print your case on? What material and what settings?

  9. #129
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    Custom machine that I designed. I print in ABS and PLA, mostly PLA now because I like it better. Settings in 3d printing are sort of machine specific. In general, I use 0.3 mm layer heights and speeds around 100 mm/s.

  10. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew K View Post
    "The designer could open up the distance across the nut flats another .020" and probably not have any effect on functionality of the part and guarantee fit up every time"
    Or the nuts could spin every time resulting in useless prints. If the nuts couldn't be tapped in with a hammer then your printer should recalibrate his machine or reconsider using it as a retail service.

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