Making a standalone HeaterMeter? Get a free PCB


 

Bryan Mayland

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The v4.1.0 boards were a bit of a bust due to the a couple of my errors and a component being too large. The boards will work OK, but they'll use the RJ11 jack (v4.1.1 will use RJ45) and have different dimensions than what will be the official v4.1 boards. They'll work better as standalone boards (no wifi / Pi) due to the larger jack size. Don't expect them to fit in any official 3D printed case.

If anyone is ok with that and wants to build one, I'll send you a free PCB. Just post here and send me a private message with your address. I only have 2 so it is first come, first serve. If you're just thinking about "building a HeaterMeter someday" please state that because I'd rather prioritize someone who will definitely use it.
 
I don't know if this is of interest, but there are some very low profile RJ45 jacks that fit nicely as a shield with a motherboard. Bryan, did you need a low profile design - Matt and I can point you to the right part and dig up an eagle part design for it.
 
And they're gone. Note that I've cut the trace that goes to the "servo" output on the RJ11 jack. To get the servo to work, you need to run a wire from the ATmega pin 14 to the servo pin of the RJ11.

Dave, I'm not sure what you're talking about but I've already done the v4.1.1 board using these RJ45 jacks. I can't imagine anything being more low profile than these.
 
Oh I did see those but I couldn't find any dimensions after a minute or two of searching their site so gave up. Also they're 2x the cost of the plastic variety!

I don't run the temps out of the RJ45 jack because I think is a ridiculous idea. Wireless! You still can wire the extra RJ45 pins to be probes but I didn't bake that into the PCB because I couldn't work out the routing.
 
Ah that's it. I was searching with the dashes in the part number. Those are over 1.5mm flatter than the jacks I used. Man that's small. They're a lot deeper though. A nice thing about the jacks I picked are that they extend through the case to be flush with the exterior rather than being recessed, which I prefer.

The possibilities are still there. If you're planning on putting your probes at the end of a giant ethernet cable, soldering a jumper wire to the PCB for each probe you want there is probably the easiest part of the build. The other question would have been if I ran a trace, would it run to the probe jack BREAK connector or the TIP connector (i.e. would the RJ45 be "hot" always or just when nothing is inserted in the standard probe jack). I'm sure some might want it one way, some might want it the other way. This way, you get to decide! But I left them off principally because they couldn't be routed.
 
If you ever need that extra small profile RJ45, I have eagle parts to support it, including the cutout needed for the low profile.
 
I don't run the temps out of the RJ45 jack because I think is a ridiculous idea. Wireless! You still can wire the extra RJ45 pins to be probes but I didn't bake that into the PCB because I couldn't work out the routing.

I guess that coming from a guy living in Florida is understandable... but I just did my first "winter" cook and I must say I am quite glad to have the probes running over the CAT5 cable. The grill was covered in snow, vent was frozen, the shelves (where my HM normally sits) were covered in snow and ice which never melted during the cook. Meanwhile my HM was sitting on my kitchen counter running the pit... I really wanted WIRELESS but since that isn't doable this is what I end up with. TBHWY I kinda like running the whole thing over the CAT5 wire better than the wireless idea because with the CAT5 system I don't need any power supply outside at the grill, it all comes through the CAT5 cable from the HM safe inside. I'm not crazy damn it! LOL

I'm glad to run probe wires manually inside the HM, that's what I do now anyways, but I just wanted to try and point out WHY I run the probes over the CAT5. During bad weather you don't need to have a power supply or HM outside, I've cooked through some severe weather in the past couple weeks (heavy rain/wind/snow) with my HM and power supply safe inside, and thats nice! Also, for remote cooks it allows you to plug in your HM wherever there is power and run CAT5 to the pit rather than being limited to the length of your probe leads. So it is very useful and convenient. And BTW... I've got it working really well now with two probes, the servo and blower running over a ~50ft CAT5 cable, and loving it...
 
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I'm with you Ralph. Wired, Wireless, I'd like to separate the HM from the temp/blower/servo/Solid State Relay via some modular connectivity option.
 
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I'm with you Ralph. Wired, Wireless, I'd like to separate the HM from the temp/blower/servo/SCR via some modular connectivity option.

I had been hot after some sort of wireless system that would allow a standalone HM to be at the grill (permanently) and communicate wirelessly to another HM that is paired with a rPi. Perhaps having the standalone unit at the grill transmitting the data it would normally send to the rPi wirelessly to the second HM where it would be passed to the rPi. If this can be done there would be no worry about loosing wireless connectivity cause the HM at the grill would be capable of running the pit on its own, if the wireless connection dropped the worst that should happen is you get some blank spots on the HM graph but the pit should still be holding the set temperature...

However, since that is just a pipe dream and winter is already upon us I used the CAT5 method and it is working really well so far. I have become fond of this method because there is no need for ANY electronics out at the grill (other than the servo and blower). No HM board, no power supply, nothing but your damper and your blower. I am leaving my roto-damper, blower and pit probe out at the grill now to see how much winter they can take, so far so good, cooked on it again last night in about 30 degree weather with a wicked wind whipping, it worked great as usual. Meanwhile my HM and power supply is safe in my kitchen...
 
Hi Bryan, actually I am also planning to build the HeaterMeter but I am not in a hurry and I am planning to build it may be in 1-2 months and I will send you an email to find if these are still available.

assembly pcb
 
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And they're gone. Note that I've cut the trace that goes to the "servo" output on the RJ11 jack. To get the servo to work, you need to run a wire from the ATmega pin 14 to the servo pin of the RJ11.



Hi Bryan, actually I am also planning to build the HeaterMeter but I am not in a hurry and I am planning to build it may be in 1-2 months and I will send you an email to find if these are still available.

No need to contact Bryan, 4th post down says they are gone, you are better off finding someone with a extra 4.1.4 PCB as you had to order those in threes.
 
No need to contact Bryan, 4th post down says they are gone, you are better off finding someone with a extra 4.1.4 PCB as you had to order those in threes.

He can order 4.2.4 singles from osh for 15 dollars, going off memory. I'm receiving one today in the mail.
 
You should be building the HMv4.2.4, not the HMv4.1, that board is outdated. The HMv4.2.4 boards are available in single quantities from OSHPark now, and that is the best way to go, with or without thermocouple support that is your option. If you want the thermocouple pit probe support and the SMD soldering intimidates you, Bryan said he has a limited number of HMv4.2.4 boards available for sale with the SMD thermocouple components already on the board. If you want that you have to contact Bryan for your board, not OSHPark.....
 

 

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