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Thread: INTRODUCING: the "Roto Damper"

  1. #711
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    Quote Originally Posted by RalphTrimble View Post
    I got it from Mouser, dont have the product number off hand, will try to lookup when I have time...
    Is this it?
    https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...rrencycode=USD

  2. #712
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    THat's the right style but the wrong contact configuration, should be on-on
    I created the Roto Damper, RD3, HMv4.2 sliding back case, "air-burner" and the "ping-pong" valve in my quest for delicious "set and forget" BBQ.

  3. #713
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    Ralph, do you sell printed rd3's?

  4. #714
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    shoot me an email at rotodamper AT Hot Mail DOT com, I can help you out...
    I created the Roto Damper, RD3, HMv4.2 sliding back case, "air-burner" and the "ping-pong" valve in my quest for delicious "set and forget" BBQ.

  5. #715
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    Anyone have an opinion on this PSU? I built my meter and damper. Didn’t get the psu direct from heater meter cause the us one is out of stock. Seems to have the right specs.

    Power Adapter,12v Power Supply 2A AC DC Adapter,Switching Power Supply 12VDC Led Power Supply LED Driver for LED Strip Light 24W Max US Plug, UL Listed AC 100-240V to DC 12V Power Adapter Transformer https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0711SZCMQ/...language=en_CA

  6. #716
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    I cannot attest to the quality of this particular PSU or the fitment of the connector (though it LOOKs like the connector will fit the HM), but you do have the right specs. I recommend a 12V 2A PSU if you plan to run a blower and a damper with your HM.
    I created the Roto Damper, RD3, HMv4.2 sliding back case, "air-burner" and the "ping-pong" valve in my quest for delicious "set and forget" BBQ.

  7. #717
    TVWBB Honor Circle Bryan Mayland's Avatar
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    Yeah the plug is the right size 5.5x2.1mm, but there's no telling what the quality is. It's probably fine though because it seems Signcomplex is not just a no-name company.
    I'm that HeaterMeter guy what ruins everybody's free time.

  8. #718
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    Hey guys. Just got my HM in the mail and I'm excited to get it all put together. I've got the files for the RD3 as well and looking to get those printed up in the short term. In the top post it's mentioned that you can hand wire this together, but I don't see any info about how to do that. Is the info somewhere in this thread? I saw one post and it looked like it might as as simple as punching wires to the cat5 jack. A guide or diagram would be great though. Thanks!

  9. #719
    TVWBB Honor Circle Bryan Mayland's Avatar
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    Yup all you need to do is just punch down the wires into the ethernet keystone. It just needs to match what's on the other end coming out of the HeaterMeter.
    • Pin 3 - Servo 5V (middle wire in servo connector) - Green/White in regular ethernet cables
    • Pin 4 - Blower ground (black) and Servo ground (brown or black usually) - Blue in regular ethernet cables
    • Pin 5 - Blower 12V (red) - Blue/White in regular ethernet cables
    • Pin 6 - Servo Signal (orange or yellow usually) - Green in regular ethernet cables


    What I like to do is punch down all the wires into the jack, then plug in the ethernet cable between it and the HeaterMeter. With the power off, test continuity from the labeled pins on the HeaterMeter, to where you've punched into the jack. Make sure 5V connects to the servo's 5V, GND connects to where the servo and blower GND wires go in, etc. Once all the wires check out, you can power it up for a test. Using manual mode is an easy way to sweep through 0%-100% and test. I've tested so many I can zip through the menus lickedy split and test all the buttons, LEDs, blower and servo operation. Right -> Right -> Up -> Left -> Hold Up until I hit 100% -> Right -> Right -> Down -> Left and then Left one more time to test Lid Mode.
    I'm that HeaterMeter guy what ruins everybody's free time.

  10. #720
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    Thanks Bryan! I wasn't sure that HM was controlling the servo by default or not. Sounds like it is. So now I need to get a servo and print out this bad boy. Thanks for the help!

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