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Thread: INTRODUCING: the "Roto Damper"

  1. #691
    New Member
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    Oct 2018
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    Flower Mound, TX
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    Just completed build out of HeaterMeter v4.2 w/RPi Zero W and Roto Damper RD3. Very impressed with the simplicity of build out, configuration, and operation. Thanks Bryan & Ralph for the effort put into developing, refining, and documenting this solution. Everything looks to be working beautifully!

    Couple simple questions to anyone...

    1). Am I correct to assume that when adjusting the low & high pulse values for servo operation, that I want the damper 100% open (meaning the two half moon ports are perfectly aligned to full open, max air flow) when fan is at 100% and when fan is at 0% the damper window alignment should be at that point where the port is just closed (no air flow), so that when fan goes increases from 0%, to lets say 5%, the port window just begins to open for air flow?

    2). I have an offset smoker with the firebox on the right. In most all implementations of the HeaterMeter w/Roto Damper I see people installing the unit over the air intake damper door on the right side of the firebox. Is anyone aware of any issues if one were to install the Fan/Roto Damper RD3 under the main body of the smoker chamber into the left side of the firebox and just leave the right side air intake damper of the firebox closed?

  2. #692
    TVWBB Honor Circle Bryan Mayland's Avatar
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    I don't have any experience with #2, but you've got #1 right on. Just go into the config webui and set the setpoint to "0%", which will set you to manual mode, 0% output. Then use the servo pulse duration to make sure it is just closed. The HeaterMeter can only operate in increments of 10uS so don't worry about getting it to the perfect 1uS. Then set the setpoint to 100% and do the same thing except with the other value making sure it is just fully opened at your selected pulse length.

    PROTIP: Use Alt-S (or Cmd-S on Mac?) on the webui config page to quickly "Save & Apply" the value rather than scrolling back and forth between the pulse fields and the Save button.
    I'm that HeaterMeter guy what ruins everybody's free time.

  3. #693
    TVWBB Diamond Member
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    I agree with Bryan on #1, though some seem to think setting the zero point so the damper remains slightly open is better, I prefer zero=fully closed.

    On #2, I am not sure I fully understand the question, but as long as the air is getting into the fire box it should work out ok. You want the air intake to blow as directly at the fire as possible. You want to avoid bringing the air in where it can blow right past the fire into the smoking pit, that can cool the pit initially rather than warm it, then give you overshoot when the fan slows down.
    I created the Roto Damper, RD3, HMv4.2 sliding back case, "air-burner" and the "ping-pong" valve in my quest for delicious "set and forget" BBQ.

  4. #694
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    Thanks guys for the help, much appreciated!

  5. #695
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    Jul 2017
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    East TN
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    I think with #2 heat could become an issue. Just may want to see how hot that area gets. You'll have heat being radiated from both the bottom of the main chamber and the side of the fire box. Would be easy enough to fix with a heat shield. What about the right side of the fire box instead of the back as you're facing the fire box door? Seems like where you're suggesting the blower would be competing with the draft direction. Just brainstorming.
    Become one with nature, then marinate it.

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