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Thread: INTRODUCING: the "Roto Damper"

  1. #651
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    Thanks for the compliments. I am sure you can dial it in better than that as well, gasket help a lot... What % was your HM running through most of the cook? I like to shoot for about 30%...
    I created the Roto Damper, RD3, HMv4.2 sliding back case, "air-burner" and the "ping-pong" valve in my quest for delicious "set and forget" BBQ.

  2. #652
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    Just sharing a screenshot of what the RD3 is capable of on my smoker. I'm using the HM 4.3 with the RD3 on a FireMagix 24S-SM. You can see that I started out at 225, went to 250, then 325, then down to 275. Pretty impressed. Thanks Ralph!


  3. #653
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    Nice graph, that's solid control! Glad you're happy...
    I created the Roto Damper, RD3, HMv4.2 sliding back case, "air-burner" and the "ping-pong" valve in my quest for delicious "set and forget" BBQ.

  4. #654
    TVWBB Platinum Member Bryan Mayland's Avatar
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    Yeah, that looks perfect. Nice!
    I'm that HeaterMeter guy what ruins everybody's free time.

  5. #655
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    Thank you both for all your work on this project!

  6. #656
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    Hey Ralph, Just wanted to say thanks for the stl files and the work you've put into this. I've got it all printed out and assembled. I'll probably start a test cook this weekend. I'll also try to take pictures of everything and add them on here, so you can see it.

    I do have one question, has anyone had any issues with a jittery servo? It seems like it's getting fantom signals or something from somewhere. When I send the actual open/close it works, but when sitting idle...it has a slight jitter in it.

    Thanks again.

  7. #657
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    Glad your print worked out Victor, as for servo jitter, that's a long standing situation with a couple factors....

    First factor would be a quality servo, there are a lot of cheap bootleg Tower Pro MG90s servo's out there...

    Second factor could be resistance. If your valve is too tight the servo can struggle to move fully into position, make sure the servo is seated all the way (and not hung up on first layer squish from the print, scrape that away of necessary). Also make sure the servo isn't jammed too tighly into the hole, if you have to force it in that will probably bind the gearbox a bit. Loosening the servo screw a bit can sometimes reduce servo binding...

    Another factor is HM firmware. Initially the servo was always powered on and would move with the slightest change in HM output. Later firmware was changed to a move and rest type of action where the servo would power down after moving, and the sensitivity has been adjusted so the servo doesnt move until the HM output changes significantly. I think recently Bryan changed the firmware back to having the servo powered on all the time.

    I've been back and forth, had jitter, and zero jitter depending on the combination of the above. I had initially not been fond of the move and rest firmware because my MG90s would sometimes twitch and stick open and the HM would put the servo to rest in the open position letting my fire go out of control. Frustrated with this I changed to a Hextronik HXT900 servo which never jittered or twitched a bit, working great for a year (powered on 24/7). Recently I flashed the latest firmware which I think keeps the servo energized and my servo was dead a few days later. Coincidence? Probably... I ordered another HXT900 and am installing it tonight, guess we'll see if it takes another year to kill this one! BTw, the HXT servo doesn't fit the std RD, the shoulder is too shallow, needs a custom part.
    Last edited by RalphTrimble; 11-09-2017 at 07:03 PM.
    I created the Roto Damper, RD3, HMv4.2 sliding back case, "air-burner" and the "ping-pong" valve in my quest for delicious "set and forget" BBQ.

  8. #658
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    Quote Originally Posted by VictorPriceJr View Post
    I do have one question, has anyone had any issues with a jittery servo? It seems like it's getting fantom signals or something from somewhere. When I send the actual open/close it works, but when sitting idle...it has a slight jitter in it.

    Thanks again.
    I have found that you can get rid of almost all of the jitter by introducing a capacitor (47uF 10V polarized) across the power supply of the servo (red and black/brown wires). Ralph is correct, there are plenty of counterfeit MG90S servos out there. I buy mine directly from TowerPro and another good source is Adafruit.

  9. #659
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    Quote Originally Posted by WBegg View Post
    I have found that you can get rid of almost all of the jitter by introducing a capacitor (47uF 10V polarized) across the power supply of the servo (red and black/brown wires). Ralph is correct, there are plenty of counterfeit MG90S servos out there. I buy mine directly from TowerPro and another good source is Adafruit.
    This fix sounds like a straightforward way to "even out" the servo action. How did you reach this solution, and can you just stick the legs of that capacitor into the socket of the servo when you plug in the leads (is there enough room)? To be sure the polarity is correct, the + side of the capacitor into RED and the - into black/brown, correct? Does this act as a "buffer" to the signals to help smooth out the action?

    I'm researching options before starting construction on my own gravity feed build and will be going with the Heater Meter setup for sure. Looking forward to building it with the Roto Damper as well. I'll have to contact Ralph for those solid files - his RD design looks great!

  10. #660
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    i actually put mine in the recess of the LAN jack, and it fits nicely. There was a thread regarding same issues, and one of the remedies that evolved out of that discussion was adding a capacitor. I believe what it does (someone correct me if I'm wrong) is it prevents a supply voltage drop when a signal is sent to the servo.

    And yes, + to red, and - to black/brown.
    Something like this ...

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