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Thread: INTRODUCING: the "Roto Damper"

  1. #731
    TVWBB Diamond Member
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    Since the screw rotates with the servo horn (and gear beneath) the screw will not work loose no matter how lightly you tighten it, no need for loctite. If you are concerned that it is too tight test the motion without the screw installed and see if it still sticks?
    Over the past number of years I have never had someone report a friction issue that required lubricant. Perhaps you should wash both disc's that make up the damper to be sure there is nothing sticky on there? Perhaps things tighten up after exposed to such heat? Though I have sent dampers to Arizona, Texas etc and never had anyone report an issue with the heat...
    Post a picture of the damper with the damper disc removed, I am interested in how the servo shoulder is sitting in there...
    Last edited by RalphTrimble; 07-02-2019 at 11:41 AM.
    I created the Roto Damper, RD3, HMv4.2 sliding back case, "air-burner" and the "ping-pong" valve in my quest for delicious "set and forget" BBQ.

  2. #732
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    Well the issue was not the damper plate or how tight the screw was. When I took the servo out of the case it still would stick every other time at about 25 - 30 percent.

    I replaced it with a different brand of servo that seems much, much smoother and also has not stuck once so far. Been outside in the heat all morning.

    So either the batch of two "TowerPro" brand MG90S servos were bad or that model is bad. Anyway, for me they are black-listed and the TIANKONGRC brand are on the white list.

    Thanks again and hope this helps someone.

    Thanks - Richard

  3. #733
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    IIRC, there's a post around here someplace about counterfeit TowerPro MG90S and their differences. Wonder if you got one of the problem children?

    Here we go: https://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?767...ht=counterfeit

  4. #734
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    Exactly! Yes, the two on the left are the ones that went bad. The one on the right, labelled "TIANKONGRC", seems to be much better.

    [IMG][/IMG]

    It would not fit the keyhole slot, so I had to use a small rat tail file and relieve it a bit.

    But works fine. I'll be sure and post some negative feedback to the seller on Amazon for the first two - though since I've cut then leads I probably can't return them.

    Thank you again - Richard

  5. #735
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    The two on the left are NOT towerpro servos. They are most definitely counterfeit.

  6. #736
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    Hello everyone, Iím just checking in here as Iím about to start building a HeaterMeter and hopefully an RD3. Looks like a really cool project.

  7. #737
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    Maryville, TN
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    Just wanted to say thanks to everyone, especially Ralph for sending me a copy of the STL files.

    I printed everything last week and built my HeaterMeter and RD3 last Sunday morning. I fired up the BGE a little after lunch and played with the HM/RD3 setup. It pretty much worked perfectly out of the box; all I had to change was the servo setting to get full open/close. It held perfectly at 195, 200, 225, and 250. Then I smoked some salmon for dinner using the new setup and got a text message when it was ready

  8. #738
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    I joined just to post on this thread.

    Have made a HM4.2 which appears to work fine. It's primary use is on my 55gal UDS, which has two 1.5in inlets.

    1. Will this fit "off the shelf"?
    2. Do I need to get the control board that goes with it, or can I just plug it straight into the HM?

    Can't wait to get started! Really enjoyed building the HM4.2.

  9. #739
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    I have various output adapters for the RD3 to suite many scenario's, the largest being 1" Female NPT threaded.
    You can run the RD3 with just the CAT5 jack connecting the servo and blower to the HM without the RDTC board in the RD3, the aux board is an option not a requirement.
    I created the Roto Damper, RD3, HMv4.2 sliding back case, "air-burner" and the "ping-pong" valve in my quest for delicious "set and forget" BBQ.

  10. #740
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    Thanks Ralph,

    I guess the cheap solution is to use high temp tape with the largest adaptor going until I can come up with a better way of doing it. I sent you an email - how do I get the STL files?

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