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Thread: 3D Printed Barrel Servo/Fan

  1. #11
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    What are you using for layer height(s) when you slice the parts? I sliced at .3 first layer and .4 on the rest and printed it up last night. I haven't completely cleaned up the parts yet, but they seem to mate with a bit of space around the barrel and the valve offers little resistance to air flow when it is closed. Not sure if it will close better when the parts are cleaned up, or sliced with thinner layers....

    When your valve is in the closed position, if you put suction on the output (grill) side of the valve, how much will air flow through the closed valve on your build?

  2. #12
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    I use 0.3 mm layer heights for everything. There is 0.25 mm space built in laterally between the base and the housing to allow for variability in print and tube accommodation. That gap closes upon tightening of the mount screw. There is also a preferred orientation of the valve, The side with the rounded edges should point towards the fan. Lastly, you need to make sure that your limits are set properly in the software. I didn't end up cleaning the parts at all with acetone because it worked so well right off the bat. I will hopefully mount it to my square tube tonight so I can answer your suction question.

  3. #13
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    If you close the valve and put the output side up to your mouth how much air can you draw through the valve?

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by RalphTrimble View Post
    If you close the valve and put the output side up to your mouth how much air can you draw through the valve?
    Like I said, I need to insert the metal tube first. It doesn't really mean anything without doing that.

  5. #15
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    The metal tube is just another place for a leak, I'm wondering how well the valve itself seals...

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by RalphTrimble View Post
    The metal tube is just another place for a leak, I'm wondering how well the valve itself seals...
    Based upon the blower test, pretty well.

  7. #17
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    Also, the metal tube is actually part if the design.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Kole View Post
    Also, the metal tube is actually part if the design.
    How so? Then I am missing that part for sure, I just converted the square output to round so I could fit it to my 3/4" copper adapter. Testing my valve by drawing air through the output (without the copper tube connected) I find it offers very little resistance to air flow when closed, that is why I am wondering if your valve is the same or if it is somehow tighter?

    The fan blow test doesn't really say much, there are lots of places for the air to go rather than through the output and the static pressure of the HM fan isn't very high to start with. A suction test is a more real world measurement of how it will perform, as the valve needs to prevent draft from the fire which is essentially a suction....
    Last edited by RalphTrimble; 09-18-2013 at 03:58 PM.

  9. #19
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    The blower test simply tests the barrel portion. You are correct in saying the real world scenario is suction. However, I think you are a bit off in your estimation of the negative pressure generated by the smoker. I designed the valve so that the metal tube is held in place by the base and the housing to create a solid conduit to the barrel valve. Without the tube, there will be leaks along the length of the device. So as I'm stating for the third time, I'll get a better idea of the performance once I mount the tube. Thank you for reminding me that I should never release anything until I've completely finished all tests.

  10. #20
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    I can't really tell from the photos Tom, but what is the slot for next to the RJ11 slot where the servo goes? I'm assuming it has something to do with the servos?

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