Page 98 of 99 FirstFirst ... 488896979899 LastLast
Results 971 to 980 of 988

Thread: General 3D Printing Thread

  1. #971
    TVWBB Platinum Member Bryan Mayland's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    4,256
    Ooh yeah that is a pretty small nozzle. All my prints are utilitarian so I don't need any fine details so the larger nozzles are great for great for making a nice solid 2.5mm thick wall in four quick passes. The C-Bot on the left has the Volcano with 0.6mm nozzle and the i3 on the right has an E3D V6 with a 0.5mm nozzle. The C-Bot can push 12mm3/sec and still get 98% of the requested material, and the i3 can do about 8mm3/sec. That's with printing at the high end of material temperatures (250C for ABS, 230C for PLA). I'm not sure how anyone can print at like 70mm/s at 190C in PLA and actually get the right amount of material laid down. For testing, I used a 50g scale and extruded 300mm of filament at various feedrates and temperatures, weighing the amount of extruded plastic.


    My Z-Axis is a unique beast! I've got a 20T gear on the Z motor (which is the standard Z motor mount) and 40T gears on my leadscrews which are sitting in flanged bearings with my own mounts. The 2:1 gearing means I get 0.02mm per full step on the Z motor with twice the torque and no worries about the Z screws getting out of sync. Placing both Z screws at the center of gravity of the bed didn't work very well, as the bed could slightly teeter back and forth due to vibrations while printing and left artifacts on the print. Now they are placed slightly heavier on the front so it is always teetered in the same direction. There are a few closeups of them in my 3D Printing album. The model I used I sent back to Carl and he made an even swankier version I posted to the C-Bot thread. The model name is "Z bearing mount carl" if you need to google it.
    I'm that HeaterMeter guy what ruins everybody's free time.

  2. #972
    TVWBB Member
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Phoenix
    Posts
    99
    Wow! Nice work. Thanks Bryan for taking the time to give me the info. I just ordered .6mm and .8mm brass nozzles. The E3D v6 came with a .4mm brass nozzle so I should have a good number of nozzles to try out once I get the Ordbot back into shape. I really never quite fully understood the relationship between what is expected and what is extruded was so high based in part on the very small nozzle size.

    I really like your z axis setup and will shoot to mimic it on my D-Bot I will build. I really like the 2:1 gearing for the Z motor! Did you print your C-Bot structural pieces at 100% infill? i had read that suggestion by the author on the Thingiverse D-Bot model page.

    Thanks,
    Troy
    Weber Performer 02', WSM 18.5, HeaterMeater 4.0, Smokey Joe Gold, Thermapen SF

  3. #973
    TVWBB Platinum Member Bryan Mayland's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    4,256
    Thanks! On my i3, the two Z motors would need to be reset every few days because they would slowly drift away from being equally high so when I designed my Z setup, I wanted to be sure there was no way that would happen any more. It is nice because I can loosen the front motor and slide it to the middle and the belt is then loose enough that I can turn either leadscrew (with a little elbow grease) to get the bed arms level, then just side the Z motor off to the side to tighten the belt back up. Another nice thing is that the leadscrews have can be inserted far enough through the pulley to adjust their height. Right now my volcano head can run into the leadscrew tops if it goes off the side of the bed, but next time I need to take the bed off I am going to loosen the set screws on the 40T pulleys and slide them down a little further to make them sit below the bed height. It is a lot easier than cutting a hardened steel leadscrew!

    I printed my parts with 40% honeycomb infill. 4 perimeters, 4 top, 4 bottom layers, 0.24mm layer height. There's not much infill in them though, because between the perims and layers it fills most of the space solid anyway. Slic3r has the new "cubic" infill as well now, which is supposedly stronger than honeycomb for shear strength so that might be a better option.
    I'm that HeaterMeter guy what ruins everybody's free time.

  4. #974
    TVWBB Member
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Phoenix
    Posts
    99
    Those print settings are good to know! Is your build including the parts you used documented anywhere? I don't want to keep bugging you but I like a few of your mods and wouldn't mind replicating them.

    1. Did you use the BOM specified Z-screws and motor?
    2. Are your modified X-Y motor mounts posted anywhere? I saw how you adjusted them for a little extra room away from the frame. Seems like a nice mod.

    BTW, thanks for your service. What branch were you in? I retired from the USAF in 2008.

    Troy
    Weber Performer 02', WSM 18.5, HeaterMeater 4.0, Smokey Joe Gold, Thermapen SF

  5. #975
    TVWBB Platinum Member Bryan Mayland's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    4,256
    I sort of documented what I did along the way in the OpenBuilds forum C-Bot thread, but stopped when they moved to a Google+ group because that is pretty unusable as a way to share information. I started with the original C-Bot BOM and started putting it all together but just kept changing things along the way as I saw things I thought could be better. It is pretty disorganized, I have mods done in 123D, Fusion 360, and all my custom from scratch stuff is done in OpenSCAD. I had to search around just to figure out where the XY Motors were (they were in both 123D and Fusion!). I am happy to answer any questions you have though, you can even email me directly heatermeter@capnbry.net if it is more convenient, it makes no difference to me.

    1. Yes I used the OpenBuilds 8mm lead screws (250mm length) if that's still what is on the BOM. My X Y and Z motors are all the Kysan 48mm long steppers which I think are specified in the BOM. I run the X and Y at 0.7A and the Z at 0.5A.
    2. I moved the motors out just a bit so they weren't pushed up against the frame in any way and thickened the support fillet to offset any detrimental effects of having the motor just dangling. I use Astrosyn dampers on the XY motors which also makes them much quieter. The E and Z I tried and didn't hear any significant difference so I removed them. The part is available shared in my Fusion 360. Let me know if that link doesn't work or if you just want STLs, I've never shared anything through Fusion so don't know if I am doing it right.

    No, thank you for your service. The Captain in CapnBry has to do with a charterboat license (OUPV) which I think we can all agree is far less beneficial to the country, but a fun way to make a little money moving boats around Florida back in college. What did you do in the Air Force? I had high school dreams of being a naval aviator and went through all the interviews, physicals, fitness tests, and academic testing to try and get into Annapolis but ultimately did not make the cut and settled for the private sector.
    I'm that HeaterMeter guy what ruins everybody's free time.

  6. #976
    TVWBB Member
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Phoenix
    Posts
    99
    I figured you used the BOM for as much as would work and then just modified after that. I am glad the BOM uses a ball lead screw. My current Ordbot just uses a regular non-ball lead screw (threaded rod, Lol!). I should be able to take those motor mounts off of the Fusion360 and pull them into solidworks. Thanks for the link!! I also like those Astrosyn dampers. From your graphs it looks like the do quiet down those motors quite a bit.

    The Charterboat license would be cool and very fun!! I was blessed enough to get to be a pilot in the USAF for 17 of the 20 years I was in. I had loved planes since I was old enough to walk!

    Thanks again!

    Troy
    Weber Performer 02', WSM 18.5, HeaterMeater 4.0, Smokey Joe Gold, Thermapen SF

  7. #977
    TVWBB Member
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Phoenix
    Posts
    99
    Hi Guys,

    I am getting my Hadron OrdBot setup to print again, mainly so I can print my own parts to build a 300x300 corexy D-Bot printer. It has been a couple of years since I was printing anything and it seems there have been some advances in filament and hotends. I was wondering if people would mind sharing a few details about their setups.

    1. What type (ABS, PETG, PLA, etc) and Brand of Filament do you use? I have printed w/MakerGeeks ABS in the past. It seemed ok but it would not fully dissolve in Acetone so I don't know if it had some fillers in it. I also ordered a couple of spools from them last year and it took almost 3 months for them to ship it. I am thinking about trying the PETG from Matter Hackers.

    2. What Extruder/hotend combo do you use and what size nozzle?

    3. What print bed/heater are you using?

    Thanks in advance for your details.

    TRoy
    Weber Performer 02', WSM 18.5, HeaterMeater 4.0, Smokey Joe Gold, Thermapen SF

  8. #978
    TVWBB Platinum Member Bryan Mayland's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    4,256
    1. I use ABS for things I expect to get warm, including dark colored items for use outdoors as the sun can easily heat parts to deformation temperature. PLA for everything else just because it has fewer warp issues. I'm trying to find myself a new plastic supplier. I used to use ProtoParadigm for everything I could (all PLA), as their filament was consistent in tolerance, roundness, and color between orders. However, it takes about 2 weeks to get an order from them if they had the color in stock and recently everything was out of stock for weeks at a time so I couldn't count of them to keep me stocked up. For ABS, I go with eSun and haven't had a problem. Supposedly Inland filament is also made by eSun which is stocked at MicroCenter retail stores. Hatchbox is good too, but the price varies on Amazon from like $20 to $50 a spool for no good reason. I've started using a lot of MakerGeeks, but their ABS tends to be "moist" for some reason and prints like garbage no matter how long I keep it in desiccant. Their PLA is good but I don't like that they don't describe the colors on their product page so you may be surprised with what you get (like finding out that "gray matter" is translucent and not solid gray). They have shipped my 4 orders within a day each time though.

    2. For extruders, the Titan Aero is nice but a bit on the expensive side. Just a direct drive MK8 hobbed gear is good if the tooth profile is cut well (many eBay sellers send a gear with just some scratches in it, which can't push anything), the "hobgoblin" is E3D's drive gear if you don't mind spending a couple extra bucks. The direct drive has a hard time with low layer heights (0.10mm and below) where it starts having a hard time putting out so little plastic. The hotend, I like the E3D V6 or Volcano. The only problem I've ever had with it is when the heatsink/heatbreak didn't have thermal compound in them and would jam randomly. They have since started including a packet of compound to alleviate this. If you're looking to save money, you can find really good clones of this now if you just compare the E3D official mechanical drawings to the eBay listings. Nozzle size depends on what you are printing. 0.4mm is a standard, but I prefer a little larger because I mostly make mechanical parts. I have 0.5mm on one printer, and 0.6mm on my main printer.

    3. MIC6 aluminum plate with a 120VAC silicone heating pad stuck to it through a SSR. Trying to drive like 10A+ of 12V power just to try to generate heat is a waste, and larger beds can take forever (15-20 minutes) to heat up and cause problems with cheap chinese controller boards which really shouldn't have so much current running on them. My 300mm 1/4" aluminum bed can heat to 105C in about 3-4 minutes. I have a sheet of PEI stuck on top but it grips too well, sometimes ABS sticks so well I destroy the print taking it off despite the Z height being perfectly calibrated. My favorite is borosilicate with a light wipe of hairspray or thinned out gluestick which I will switch back to when I get enough time to remove the PEI stickum.
    I'm that HeaterMeter guy what ruins everybody's free time.

  9. #979
    TVWBB Wizard
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Puyallup, WA
    Posts
    1,500
    http://myuds.servebeer.com/

    My 3d printer in action for the next few hours.

    Makergear m2e in a Ikea cabinet
    PEI on a .250 mic6
    nozzle .30
    heat bed 105C
    extruder 240c
    Black, I mainly use Shaxon from Frys, works pretty good.
    Heatermeter Builder. Adapter Board v6.3, Heatermeter customizer.

  10. #980
    TVWBB Wizard
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Puyallup, WA
    Posts
    1,500
    Plastic PET
    Nozzle size .25mm
    Print duration about 50 hours, I may run out of plastic before it's finished lol

    What I'm I printing well it's to see if I'm able to print it. It's a proto part from work in which I thermoform PET and PP plastics into container for plants and this particular print is a tray call the 1006 seedling tray

    http://myuds.servebeer.com

Page 98 of 99 FirstFirst ... 488896979899 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. General Raspberry Pi thread...
    By RalphTrimble in forum HeaterMeter DIY BBQ Controller
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 11-03-2013, 02:07 PM
  2. 3D printing of HeaterMeter enclosures and Fan mount
    By Dave Casazza in forum HeaterMeter DIY BBQ Controller
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 09-26-2012, 12:42 PM
  3. General Question using an ATC
    By Yianni in forum Automatic Temperature Control Systems
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 11-14-2011, 03:59 AM
  4. General question
    By Mark Heer in forum New WSM Owners
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 03-23-2010, 05:09 AM
  5. Printing specific posts
    By Paul G. in forum Barbecuing
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 08-19-2003, 07:34 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •