raspberry pi problem


 

Bob Ivey

TVWBB Emerald Member
Ok so I fired up build and no display. Tried the variable pot but did not work. So I decided to log onto the rpi in stand alone to see if that told me anything. Disconnected hm4 from rpi and hooked up to a switch with a laptop with proper ip address. Was able to log on to the rpi at 192.168.200.1 then reset network on rpi to dhcp and assigned the rpi mac address to an assigned ip of 192.168.2.165. Connected rpi to my main network and tried to ping that ip. No joy. then hooked up rpi to temp switch and laptop and tried to login to the default rpi address of 192.168.200.2. Again no joy. What is required to restore the rpi network to default setting of 192.168.200.1. Once that is done, is there a trick to assign the rpi to my main network.
TIA
 
If it helps any I do have the edimax usb plug.

ifconfig
ifconfig [-a] interface [address]

Configure a network interface

Options:
[add ADDRESS[/PREFIXLEN]]
[del ADDRESS[/PREFIXLEN]]
[[-]broadcast [ADDRESS]] [[-]pointopoint [ADDRESS]]
[netmask ADDRESS] [dstaddr ADDRESS]
[outfill NN] [keepalive NN]
[hw ether|infiniband ADDRESS] [metric NN] [mtu NN]
[[-]trailers] [[-]arp] [[-]allmulti]
[multicast] [[-]promisc] [txqueuelen NN] [[-]dynamic]
[mem_start NN] [io_addr NN] [irq NN]
[up|down] ...

thats the command and the options to use it at least you can look and see what the ipaddress is
 
forgive my ignorance but I am not understanding what i should enter. if i enter ifconfig it just comes back to a prompt. If I enter ifconfig [-a] interface [address] i get back bad address 'interface' I know i am doing something wrong here but i am not sure what.
 
Maybe re-image the SD card and try again? Not sure if it will still try to install a backup config after you burn the SD card again (I think it wipes the card if I am not mistaken) If not you can see the two hidden partitions on a linux machine and delete the backup, or try a fresh SD card. Or connect a monitor and keyboard to the rPi and go through the command line to set the ip address, I think that was what anthony was giving instructions to do...
 
I have a monitor and keyboard attached but I am not sure how to enter the commands. I have reformated the sd card and then rebooted the rpi. the hm is not connected to the rpi at this time. Is there a particular format to enter the commands?
 
well, you let the rPi boot then you hit ENTER and it will enter console mode, which is where you would type the commands....
 
This is a RaspberryPi Model B with the ethernet as well correct?

The easiest way to get setup is to make sure that the ethernet port is back on the 192.168.200.x subnet:
Code:
uci set network.lan.proto=static
uci set network.lan.ipaddr=192.168.200.1
uci commit network

And then set the wifi dongle to be a client on your network:
Code:
wifi-client yournetworkname yournetworkpassword
(This assumes your wifi network is set up for WPA2-Personal encryption, if not let me know and I can adjust the command line)

Unplug the ethernet cable and reboot and wait about 30-45 seconds and the Pi should be on your wifi network
 
I am back to working on this now. I have hardwire network access to the rpi now. Not to worried about the wireless right now. When I am online over my network i log on to the rpi and I see the following message

"HeaterMeter serial communication can not be established. Configuration requires bidirectional serial operation. Possible causes of failure:

No HeaterMeter board attached
No HeaterMeter (AVR) firmware installed. See AVR Firmware
Incorrect baud rate in /etc/config/lucid
Hardware malfunction
"

Also, I should note that my heatermeter 4 line display does not even light up. I may try another display I have here. Also a 4 line but an entirely different one. My understanding is that pin 1 on the display goes to pin one on the HM4 and so on to pin 16 to pin 16? Are there any voltage checks I can make to verify operation? When I power up the system the HM4 led 2 and led 3 flash on for a moment then go out. I am showing no other activity. Since this is not a stand alone unit, MCP1700-33 is not installed.

Any thing I should check first or other idea's?
 
just did that now. stated

Update successful
Starting LinkMeter OK

system seems to be working with to 732 probes. still waiting for new probes to arrive.
No 4 line display. Changed config to 4 line display. Is there a way to check if display is getting proper voltage? Or is there something else I should look at?

When I put my hand arround pit probe temp rises. Just changes probe settings to 732 and reading is much better. Display seems to be only issue so far.
 
are you getting any display or is it just nothing...... if its nothing my guess is you have a bad solder somewhere... if its lighting up you may just need to restart the heatermeter and see what happens.

so tell us what exactly your display is doing... sometime you need to adjust the pots
 
tried a second (different) 4 line display. In config I set display to 4 line. I am getting no display at all. No back light, no nothing. Does not light up in any way. Tried adjusting the pot. No joy.

Something interesting. When I adjust the pot ALL the way counter clockwise it forces the rpi to reboot. This happens very consistantly. Does not make a difference if I am running on wall wort to HM4 or by powering via rpi usb power port.
 
hmpi-power.png

Here's some voltages to check.

Voltages for the LCD panel should be (1 to 16)
1: 0V
2: 5V
3: 0-5V depending on the contrast pot. 1.1-2V when properly adjusted
4: 0V or 5V, should flicker every second between one or the other
5: 0V
6: 0V most of the time, flickers every second but ends up 0V every time
7 - 10: not used, could be anything
11 -14: 0V or 5V, should flicker every second between one or the other
15: 5V
16: Depending on your multimeter could read anything between 0V and 5V. It is pulsed on and off really quickly continuously

Adjusting the pot all the way shouldn't reboot anything. That's indicating a short most likely between pin 3 and 5V or GND? Maybe? One of the pins on the pot is 5V the other is 0V and the third should linearly adjust between 5V and 0V depending on the pot.
 
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Found bad joint at pin 15 on display. This gives me backlight on display but it won't adjust up or down with pot. Went into config and adjusted backlight between 10% and 70%. Each change effected the backlight brightness but the voltage on pin 3 stays at about 4.7 volts referrenced to pin 1. No matter the backlight there are no words displayed. Is there a config setting that could effect this?

Checked all other voltages as specified on board picture and all were ok.
 
Not a config setting this is pure hardware. If the voltage on Pin 3 isn't below 2V you're not going to see anything. This should be pretty easy to figure out, there's only one thing connected to pin 3, which is the middle leg of the pot. The pot only has two connections, one to 5V, one to GND. You should get continuity from the GND pin to pin 1 of the LCD, and continuity from the 5V pin to pin 2 of the LCD. Pin 3 should have continuity to the middle leg, then touch every other component and see if it has continuity. If can find it connected to anything else at all, then that is wrong.
 
Bryan you are good. There was a short between pins 2 and 3 that was hard to see even with a magnifying glass and a flashlight. Now have control of back light and can see row of black squares on lines 2 and 4. Nothing on lines 1 or 2. No letters or symbols. Is this due to the 4 line display?
Have config for display set for 40% and 4 line home. When I look at the main graph display that is communicating perfectly, just not seeing anything except the two rows of black squared on lines 2 and 4.
Sorry to be so much trouble. I think the next one will be much easier.
 
Oh man that's actually a tougher one. The LED3 you're seeing lit all the time is a good sign, that means "Fan On" in Linkmeter 7. If you change the setpoint to something below room temperature it should go out, assuming you have a pit probe plugged in.

If you do have a pit probe plugged in and the LED3 changes from on to off depending on if Fan % > 0 -> The problem is between between pins 2 - 7 of the shift register (they start pin 1 on the top left then go counterclockwise down to 7 then 8 to 14 up the other side) and the LCD pins 4, 6, 11 - 14
Shift Reg 2 - LCD 4
Shift Reg 3 - LCD 6
Shift Reg 4 - LCD 11
Shift Reg 5 - LCD 12
Shift Reg 6 - LCD 13
Shift Reg 7 - LCD 14
They are 1 to 1 so check each one for continuity then make sure it doesn't touch anything else, including 5V and GND

If the LED3 does not respond to changes in set point where Fan % > 0 -> The problem is between pins 11, 12, 14 of the shift register and the ATmega 6, 17, 19. Again these are are 1 to 1 so make sure they're not contacting any other adjacent pin.
Shift Reg 11 - ATmega 19
Shift Reg 12 - ATmega 6
Shift Reg 14 - ATmega 17
 
You sir are awesome!!!! It has been a very long time since I have built a project like this. I definitely have to work on my skills. Also should work on a bench with magnifiers and better lighting. So far all is working great. Now I have to change the wire loom for the 4 line display and decide which one to use, larger or smaller. Wait, go with larger and brighter. I did not notice, but do you have a donation link on the wiki. If not you should. Thank-you so very much. I am a very happy camper.
Bob Ivey
 

 

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