Red Weber Rescue


 
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Brian Moriarty

TVWBB All-Star
This may sound weird, but I build drum smokers and use Weber kettles for parts. And I get them from craigslist for the most part for cheap or free. You never know what you might find.
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Some are rustbuckets and others are gems. Here are a couple that may have potential.
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They all seem to rust out at the grate holder welds and leg brackets on the bowl and the rim and handle welds on the lids.
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One of them was a Master-Touch, a Bar-B-Q-Kettle with 4 hole bottom vents, a couple with no date stamps and an "A" and an "L".
A can of Dupli-Color Engine Enamel matches pretty close.
 
thanks for the tips.........I actually have a red lid that the handle came right off just like you said. Do most of the colors work or just the duplicolor red?

Adrian
 
Grabbed a can of Ford Red by mistake and it's more of an Oranrge/Red when dry and doesn't match, good base for the Red though!

I'd like to clean up the Yellow kettle, I'll get back to you on that one.

Used it on the Drums and it looks pretty good.
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You wouldn't happen to have any surplus wooden handles laying around, would you? I wouldn't mind replacing the plastic handle on my WSM with a wooden one, to match my 30+ year-old kettle.
 
Originally posted by Larry D.:
You wouldn't happen to have any surplus wooden handles laying around, would you? I wouldn't mind replacing the plastic handle on my WSM with a wooden one, to match my 30+ year-old kettle.

I wish I did Larry! I have a couple kettles with the 2 rivets handles and and they were shot, I drilled a center hole in the handle bracket and tried a couple wood handles but no matter how tight I try to get them they are really loose. Tried to use some oak, walnut and ipe, but they didn't "feel" right. I'm all for keeping them original, but sometimes the new handles gotta do it.
 
Originally posted by Brian Moriarty:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Larry D.:
You wouldn't happen to have any surplus wooden handles laying around, would you? I wouldn't mind replacing the plastic handle on my WSM with a wooden one, to match my 30+ year-old kettle.

I wish I did Larry! I have a couple kettles with the 2 rivets handles and and they were shot, I drilled a center hole in the handle bracket and tried a couple wood handles but no matter how tight I try to get them they are really loose. Tried to use some oak, walnut and ipe, but they didn't "feel" right. I'm all for keeping them original, but sometimes the new handles gotta do it. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Nice! I recently replaced the rusted ash cleaner on my old red OTS (EZ) but now the legs fall off everytime I move it. Any suggestions on how to secure the legs to the bowl? I was thinking of drilling some holes and securing the legs to the bowl with screws. What do you think?
Thanks,
Steve
 
Nice! I recently replaced the rusted ash cleaner on my old red OTS (EZ) but now the legs fall off everytime I move it. Any suggestions on how to secure the legs to the bowl? I was thinking of drilling some holes and securing the legs to the bowl with screws. What do you think?
Thanks,
Steve[/QUOTE]

I'm actually doing something with the Red 18.5". I cut some steel circles and plan to bolt or pop rivet the leg brackets through the bowl. I don't know if its worth the effort, but I'm kind of partial to red Webers and Green Eggs! I'll keep you posted on the project.


Any Mossbacks in the Seattle Sno/King area looking for one of these Reds, drop me a line!
 
Originally posted by Steve Z:
...now the legs fall off everytime I move it. Any suggestions on how to secure the legs to the bowl?
I am working on a fix for this. As soon as it warms up here, and I get a fool proof design done, I'll let you all know.
 
Brian,
very impressive... do you resell these rescued grills? interested in reselling the red or yellow 18 in ones? (or do you even have a blue or green 18?)
just thought id check....
thanks in advance
Evan
 
I would NOT recommend using pop rivits to attache the legs to the kettle. Pop rivits will loosen or oxidize over time. Use ONLY bolts.

Remember that you are flirting with a serious disaster if a leg falls off with a kettle full of hot coals.
 
Remember that you are flirting with a serious disaster if a leg falls off with a kettle full of hot coals.

Safety First is always a good rule, but in my experience the legs only fall out when you are moving the kettle. Do folks move their kettles when full of hot coals? I don't
 
Originally posted by rich langer:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Remember that you are flirting with a serious disaster if a leg falls off with a kettle full of hot coals.

Safety First is always a good rule, but in my experience the legs only fall out when you are moving the kettle. Do folks move their kettles when full of hot coals? I don't </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Rich, I said "fall off" NOT "fall out"- Huge difference! As I understood his post, he is reattaching the "leg pockets" to the bottom of the kettle and not just simply trying to attache the legs to the "leg pockets". Pop rivits will "rot" out over time and it could take something as simple as a child bumping into the grill to cause the leg to fall off. I would not put myself or others at risk of this happening to by using pop rivits.

I will repeat it again: "you are flirting with a serious disaster if a leg falls off with a kettle full of hot coals."

By the way, if your legs fall out when you move your grill, you have something wrong with it and you may want to check into it, mine NEVER do.
 
Brian - couple questions; I just bought a red 1995 Weber kettle and the bottom has a few dings that need to get repainted, and possibly pounded out. Also bought a black 1993 model - same deal - $35, and I'm thinking of converting it to a mega WSM.

1. Has the Dupli-Color Engine Enamel held up well in the base (i.e. the hottest part) of the kettle?

2. So not Ford-Red, just plain Red?

3. Have you knocked out any dents and then repainted? Any suggestions/recommendations on this process?

4. Are your conversions to a drum smoker, are those 18 1/2" or 22" models? If 22", what are you using for the middle section - do you have building plans you can share?

Eric
 
So far the Red paint has held up, I'm not expecting much other than to keep the rust to a minimum and blend the dings into the finish. I wouldn't try to pound out the dings, it'll just cause the enamel finish to chip and splinter. The drum smokers are 38" tall drums with two 22.5" cook grate capacity and the other is a 34" tall drum with one grate. If I use the the tall drums I usually cook on the highest grate. They are BDS clones and cook direct and I kind of personalize them with Performer/Master-Touch lids with the dome thermometer for Beer can chickens, ribracks or use the drum lid for brisket or thighs. I've even used a rotisserie ring and spit with them. So in a sense they are still Weber's with all the parts in them!
 
Originally posted by Mike Resler:
[ As I understood his post, he is reattaching the "leg pockets" to the bottom of the kettle and not just simply trying to attache the legs to the "leg pockets". QUOTE]

Actually, I was referring to the legs falling out of the pockets on the bottom of the kettle. The pockets are still firmly in place. Just wondering if anyone had a remedy for this. And, no, I don't move my kettle when it's loaded with hot coals.

Steve
 
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