Wood Comparison from America's Test Kitchen


 
I thought some might appreciate reading the results of America's Test Kitchen's comparison of smoking woods.



Is Smoking Wood Just Wood?


Written: 6/2003


It's easy to find hickory or mesquite smoking wood—is it worth the bother to find something more exotic? And just what is the difference between wood chunks and chips?

When choosing your smoking wood, choices probably seem limited, as most hardware stores stock and sell only the two most popular types: hickory and mesquite. But many grilling enthusiasts swear by harder-to-find, more exotic woods. We wondered if it was worth the bother (and expense) to find these woods. We also wondered about the differences between "chips" and "chunks."

It turns out that both wood chips and wood chunks have a place in the world of barbecue. Chunks, because of their larger size, burn considerably longer. More smoke means more flavor, so chunks are our choice for a charcoal grill. We soaked the chunks in water for an hour to promote smoking and avoid flaming and then nestled them into the bed of burning coals. Unfortunately, when placed on the bottom of a gas grill, wood chunks do not get hot enough to smoke. On a gas grill, you must use wood chips, which should be soaked in water for a minimum of 30 minutes (so they smoke rather than ignite) and then placed in a disposable aluminum pan (to shield them from the lit burner).

With the basics under our belt, we turned to the type of wood. It is best to stay away from soft resinous woods like pine, spruce, and cedar. These needle-bearing trees contain too much sap, making their smoke harsh and foul tasting. We purchased eight different types of hardwood and tested them for flavor differences while barbecuing baby back ribs. The ribs had been brined for 1 hour and were coated with spice rub. We wanted to see how each type of wood smoke would stand up to these big flavors.

We must admit, before testing these woods for differences in flavor, we doubted that we would find many. Isn't wood just wood? One by one, we were proved wrong. Tasters were shocked as well. Here are the eight woods tested, with comments about their flavor.

Apple and Cherry: slightly sweet and fruity
Peach: slightly sweet and very woodsy
Hickory: strong, pungent, hearty
Pecan (the Southern cousin to Hickory): a bit more mellow but similar to Hickory
Maple: mellow, sweet
Oak: very perceptible but not unpleasant acidic note
Mesquite: tangy, but during the long, slow heat of barbecuing that tanginess turned to bitterness

In the end, tasters enjoyed ribs cooked over all of the woods tested, with the exception of mesquite. Each wood has its own personality and gives food a unique flavor; make your choice based on availability and personal preference.
 
i wonder what the real tastes would be without the brining and rub. both seem overkill with baby backs. nothing new really.
 
I know several people don't bother soaking wood chunks. I have seen videos on youtube where a guy soaks large chunks of seasoned hardwood for smoking, then cuts them in half with a band saw to prove that the water barely penetrates past the outer edge of the wood.

I can see the logic of soaking thin chips, but why not just put them in a foil pouch, and punch holes into them.
 
yea, soaking chunks does nothing. might help chips a bit. i usually foil no matter what. i throw a few dry chips on when doing a quick grill just to add some flavor.
 
Too bad they didn't try Alder also, which is readily available here in Western Washington, especially after one our famous windstorms. I have used it on ribs, briskit, and of course, salmon, as well with butts and beef roasts. Its mild tast gose with all of the above--
 
I soak my chunks ... for about ten minutes, warm water.

I know it doesn't penetrate. I think it helps with the chunks not catching fire at the beginning since I don't do minion, I'm throwing them on top of hot coals usually.
 

 

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