Montreal - Best smoked meat in the world


 
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Hi,

The best smoked meat I have ever tasted in my life was in Montreal, Canada at a restaurant called Schwartz's Delicatessen. It looks like a small shop on St. Laurent Boulevard near Rachel. Don't be fooled by the "greasy spoon" image. This place packs them in from miles and continents around. At lunch time the line extends around the block. Even though there is only one small door and elbows are touching almost all the time whether you find a table or you are waiting for takeout, you keep coming back because the meat is awesome !

I used to work for the NDG meat market when I was 17 and I would unload an econoline van a day of briskets that came from New Zealand. BTW this meat was not injected with any saline brew or anything. I know, I used to do the injecting for some customers. 2 flights of stairs with an average of 70 lbs cardboard box on my shoulder with blood dripping. It took all morning but in the end I got a free sandwich with a cherry coke and that was fair.

My point is, how do you make real good smoked meat. No insult meant to anyone, but even people from Ontario Canada can't find decent smoked meat <and that's just 300 miles away from Montreal>. Nothing even comes close in California restaurants.

I love Montreal, where I am from, but there must be a way to make smoked meat that way here in the USA. Any ideas ???

I appreciate your ideas and if you are ever in Montreal, make sure to stop there for a sandwich. Tell them that Marc from the NDG meat market sent you <it's been closed for 15 years>. They'll pretend to remember and give you a free pickle BTW those pickles are excellent.

Read this and tell me if I can do the same with my Weber. Hope so !!!
http://www.montrealfood.com/restos/schwartzs.html

Here's the text and there is no lie!

Montreal does not have barbecue. Not like the South has barbecue or Texas has barbecue or Florida has barbecue. Down south the arguments are about dry and wet or pork and beef or pulled or sliced or off the bone. Montrealers don't argue about these things because we do not have barbecue. We have no barbecue culture and you do not get great food without a culture that goes with it. You need long slow outdoor cooking for great barbecue and hickory or mesquite or whatever. Great barbecue does not go with seven months of winter and indoor cooking. That is why we have smoked meat.

Thank god for Rumanians. They brought over brined and smoked pastrami recipes. The great meat palaces of Montreal were once East European and Jewish. Moishe's—of great steak fame—was originally Moishe's Rumanian Paradise and almost next door was Schwartz's Hebrew Delicatessen and next to that was Kravitz's (cousin of Ben's Delicatessen downtown). There are lots of great places for smoked meat left in town but the soul of the brisket—Montreal soul food if you will—is at Schwartz's.

Ask for medium. The fat feeds the flavour. Ask for some of the best fries in town.An order of pickles, and of course Cherry Cola, the only drink you should get.

Forget dessert. There isn't any. Order, eat, enjoy...Get up and make room for the next person in line..< I love this line >.

When you are standing at the counter waiting for a seat (no one gets an entire table, be happy for the seat), glance over your shoulder to the cutting counter. Look for a plate of ends to sample—smoked meat, maybe some smoked turkey or a piece of karnatzle, slightly spicy Rumanian sausage.

The charcoal grilled steaks are good—great for the price, but you've had better. The liver is excellent. But you came here for smoked meat. Black, peppery and crusty. Sliced thin. Stacked fist-high on fresh rye. Maybe the platter for those who crave a little bit more. Maybe a grilled hot dog on the side. It is hard to pay more than $10 a person.

There are tourists who hear of Schwartz's when they plan their trip to Montreal. There are Montrealers who moved out of town and dream of coming to this place as soon as they get off the plane. And then there are the rest of us and we're just smiling, or licking the tastiest grease in the world off our lips. When you come into this town remember two things: Montreal bagels and Schwartz's smoked meat. That's all. They are never as good anywhere else.

That's true also...You just can't beat Montreal Bagels. New York tries, but no chance.

Hope you enjoyed this, please let me know your smoked meat recipes !

Cheers !

Marc
 
Marc:

Most of the deli-style smoked meats are an entirely different process.

These are true cold-cured meats. Rubbed with salt and sodium nitrite and either cured with no cooking at 40 degrees for weeks or months or smoked in a large "smokehouse" where the purpose of the fire (and smoke) is simply to keep the temperatures above freezing.

An classic example of the former would be an Italian procuitto ham -- cured for two years with no heat whatsoever. A classic example of a smoke cured product would be a Virginia country ham.

Most of the cured sausages are done in one of these two ways, as well.

There really isn't a practical way to do this kind of curing on a WSM. Bar-b-q is a hot-smoked process. I would guess that your Montreal folk have a smokehouse somewhere or a large room for smoking and curing. If you want to try this sort of stuff at home, the best bet is an electric smoker like a Cookshack because you need to hold very low temperatures for days at a time. My grandfather used to do it in a dedicated "smokehouse" on his farm -- basically a small wood building with a dirt floor where they hung their hams and bacon and salt pork and sausages. I'll have to ask my father if he remembers the exact process.

This is an area where you really have to do some research on curing and how it relates to food safety. Obviously, when curing raw meat with no heat, you don't want to make too many mistakes! The basic ingredients are salt, sugar, and sodium nitrite (salt peter).
 
That reminds me of when I lived over in Portugal in the early '70's. The smokehouse's in the small villages were just like that. Proscuinto, Choriso, Linguisa. They even made a sausage where the casings were just scrubbed out pig intestines filled with pigs blood and tied off and smoked. I can't remember the Portuguese name for it, but it translated to "Blood Sausage". It was almost black in color and was really quite good in bean dishes.
They also smoked alot of their cheeses: Serra, Serpa. The Serpa had a light coating of paprika on the outside. Let it get soft and put a piece on a fresh baked roll. mmmmm
 
Hi Marc!

I can 100% vouch for you on the Montreal smoked meat. It is really something to behold. Just this past weekend I had to make a trip to Montreal for a family funeral, arrived at Midnight and left at 2:30 in the afternoon, still managed to get to the deli twice for a super-size on rye.

I don't know that I completely agree with you about Scwartz's being the best in Montreal. I think they are probably the best known, but Dunn's, Ben's and Chenoy's are all time-honoured establishments and all make a beautiful product as well.

A friend of mine when I lived in Ottawa years ago actually made smoked meat at home in a stovetop smoker, which sort of looked like a steam tray with a tight-fitting lid that went over two elements on the stove. It was not 100% authentic, as it had to be 'helped along' with an injected cure, it was pretty good. My recent trip to Montreal has me thinking I should dig that recipe out and give it a go on the water smoker. If you're interested, drop me a line at darrenpjclark@hotmail.com and I'll type it out for you.

BTW, what do they put in those pickles, some kind of drugs?
 
Hi Marc,

Chris has a recipe for pastrami on this site. I haven't tried it yet but it sounds good and is probably as close as you'll get using a WSM. Whether it's as good as your Montreal Smoked Meat? You will have to let us know after you make some.

Chuck
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by DarrenC:
[QB]
I don't know that I completely agree with you about Scwartz's being the best in Montreal. I think they are probably the best known, but Dunn's, Ben's and Chenoy's are all time-honoured establishments and all make a beautiful product as well.
QB] <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Hi Darren,

I agree that the restaurants you mention make great smoked meat. However, when I worked at the NDG meat market, we sold to them as well. All their briskets were injected with a saline solution <curing liquid> before we shipped. I did it myself sometimes with a big 3 prong injector. No question the meat tastes good, but I think Scwartz's is the only one that does not inject. There is a visual difference as well as taste. All those meats are pink except Scwartz's, makes you wonder !

Please dig up your friend's recipe,I would love to try it...

Cheers !

Marc
 
Marc,

I dug up the recipe last night, scribbled down so many years ago, and found out my memory had deceived me! It turns out that the recipe does involve a brining process, but not an injected brine. I remembered that it was a bit of a PITA, that's why I had never attempted it myself, but now that I'm older and more patient I may give it a go. I hope you do too!


Bring 6 cups of water to a boil. Add and dissolve ? cup kosher salt and ? cup brown sugar. Romove from heat and stir in 2 tbsp. Whole black peppercorns, 1 tbsp whole cloves, 4 or 5 crushed bay leaves, 1 tbsp dried rosemary, 1 tbsp dried thyme, and several good generous spoonfuls of miced garlic. This is your brine. Let it come down to room temperature.

Put your brisket (anywhere from 4-6 lbs.) in a glass baking dish and pour the brine over it, making sure it’s completely covered. Cover the dish with plastic wrap. This brisket is going to stay in your fridge brining for 3 WEEKS!, make sure you go in and flip it once every day.

On smoking day (3 WEEKS LATER!) use anywhere from ? to 1 cup of cracked black peppercorns, depending on taste. Sprinkle them over the entire surface of the brisket and press them really well into the flesh.

Smoke the brisket at about 225 degrees until the internal temp. is about 170 degrees


So, that's all there is to it. Easy huh?

(edit) I posted this before I went to the site to look at Chris' pastrami recipe. You may want to check that one out first, it looks a heck of a lot easier and less time-consuming than this one, plus you won't have a big hunk of meat in your fridge for 3 weeks)

Take care.
 
Darren:

Now, that is a recipe where using some Morton's Tender Quick or Prague Powder (sodium nitrite) would be VERY good insurance. The salt alone should be sufficient to cure the meat, but I'd feel a lot more comfortable with the sodium nitrite serving as the "botulism police".

In fact, Morton has a corned beef recipe on their website using either Tender Quick or their Sugar Cure.
 
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