Larded Grill-Roasted Pork Tenderloin w/3 sauces and grilled vegetable 'pie'
The meat:
1 1.25-1.5-lb pork tenderloin, thinnest part of the tail trimmed
lardo, enough to fill a wide larding needle [see note]
4 t minced fresh rosemary, divided (do not use dried)
4 t minced fresh marjoram, divided
Marinade:
3/4 c plain yogurt (low or non-fat or regular)
3 T evoo
2 cloves garlic, minced or pressed
sea salt
ground white or black pepper
Sauces:
Additional plain yogurt for the yogurt sauce, plus soy sauce, minced fresh mint (dried okay), sea salt, pepper, additional minced rosemary and marjoram
Mostarda di uva (grape mostarda) [see note]
Pork or beef stock or
jus, reduced to a syrupy consistency [see note]
Veg 'pie'
1 medium eggplant
1 medium zucchini
2 spring onions, for platter garnish
evoo
pine nuts, for pie garnish
fresh basil, for pie garnish
For the meat prep:
Cut the lardo into thin strips. Toss them with half the minced fresh rosemary and marjoram.
If you are familiar with your larding needle and feel confident that it can be filled from the get-go, do so: fill the needle with the herbed lardo and gently insert into the middle of the widest end of the tenderloin, extracting carefully and using your fingers (or built-on pusher if your needle has one) to apply pressure to the lardo nearest the handle so that it all stays inside the meat. (If necessary, insert the needle once, empty, then fill the needle and re-insert, following the instructions above, so that the lardo stays in place. See note below for alternatives to lardo.)
In a small bowl, mix the 3/4 c yogurt with the remaining 2 t each of rosemary and marjoram, the garlic, the 3 T evoo and salt and pepper to taste. Place the tenderloin on a plate. Scoop some of the marinade over the meat, turn the meat well in the marinade, top with the remainder; turn again so that it is evenly coated. Cover lightly with plastic and fridge for 4-6 hours, flipping it once during its marinating time. Remove the plate from the fridge about 45 min before cook time and allow the meat to come to room temp.
[Yogurt makes a terrific base for a marinade. Though slightly acidic, it does not cause the meat fibers to denature if you marinate a longer time. Feel free to do so if that is more convenient. Also, feel free to place the meat and marinade in a Zip-loc or vac bag instead.]
For the veg prep:
When the meat is coming up to room temp, meanwhile: Trim the ends off of the eggplant and discard. Remove half the peel with a peeler, alternating. Slice the eggplant into 3/8-inch slices; reserve. Trim the ends off the zucchini and discard. Slice the zucchini lengthwise into 1/4-inch slices; reserve. Trim the roots off the spring onions.
Cooking:
Prep the kettle for an indirect cook, coals on each side, and get it going. Place a foil pan in the center, under where the meat will cook. Scrape and oil the cooking grate.
Lightly spray or brush each side of the eggplant and zucchini slices with evoo; salt lightly. Lightly oil the onions. Gently shake off some of the marinade from the meat and place on the center of the grill grate. Arrange the vegs around the meat, directly over the coals. Cover the grill for a few minutes, flip the vegs, re-arranging if necessary so that they cook evenly, re-cover, then cook the vegs till just tender; remove to a plate to cool to room temp.
Continue cooking the pork till it reaches an internal of ~155; remove and rest 7-10 min before slicing and serving.
While the meat finishes cooking, cut the grilled eggplant and zucchini into a large dice and salt and pepper lightly; drizzle with a touch of evoo. If desired, lightly pack the veg into a 3- or 4-inch ring mold on the serving platter you will use for the meat; remove the mold; garnish with several pine nuts and a sprig of basil leaves. Place the rested meat on the platter, garnish with the grilled spring onions and dollops of the sauces, if desired; serve.
For the sauces:
Use purchased
grape mostarda; make the yogurt sauce out of plain yogurt, a small splash of soy sauce, minced fresh (or dried) garden mint or spearmint, a pinch each of minced fresh rosemary and marjoram, salt and pepper to taste. For the third sauce: While the meat is cooking, reduce homemade no-salt beef or pork stock to a thick consistency and reserve. When the roast is done, taste the drippings from the foil pan and, if not bitter, add a little of them to the reduced stock.
Note:
Lardo, as mentioned upthread, is pork fat (usually the fat from the back, though belly can be used) that is cured with salt, garlic, herbs and spices for several weeks or longer. It becomes very white and tender and is delicious sliced thinly and eaten on thin slices of dark bread, alone or with complementary cheese, but it can be cooked as well.
Lardo di collonata, (see an interesting story
here), a famous version of lardo, can be replaced by your own lardo or replaced with homemade lard (very well-chilled so it does not smear). Alternatively, use very thin slices of bacon fat or minced bacon fat.
Mostarda is a popular condiment for grilled of boiled meats, especially in Italy's north. It is quite similar to fruit preserves (many mostardas contain whole or large chunks of fruit) but with the addition, often, of vegetable, herb and/or spice flavorings. A liberal addition of ground mustard seed is always used in the process.
Vegetable side dishes are often served at room temp in Italy. I assume Ronnie did that there (not sure); if you like, warm the veg just before ready to platter the meat and serve.
