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Kyle, I had a similar problem that was caused by installing the fan diode backwards. -Brian

Shane, This is the cable I use for the fan. Monoprice Audio Cable You may want to check and see if your fan isn't drawing more current than it should in case the problem is more than thin wire.

I had the same experience with the LCD problem as Dave mentioned. I was getting garbled LCD which was resolved by switching the diode until I got one that worked. I think I ended up using a 1N4148 (or something like that).

I have my setup installed such that the only air intake is from the fan. All other openings in my fire box are "sealed".

I am using a Brinkmann Smoke n Pit or whatever they call it now. The fan doesn't very hot. I have replaced the guts of the firebox so that the grate level is elevated about 5 inches from the bottom. I have an expanded steel box that is around 12 inches by 12 inches to hold the charcoal. The...

Here is a picture of the mount. It is a large sort of round plate to cover the vent holes and another piece of sheet metal to provide the mount for the fan. I attach the fan to the mount using some machine screws. It is kind of a pain to have to screw in the fan each time I want to use it...

I am using this fan: http://search.digikey.com/us/e.../603-1571-ND/2560694 After I finished the build, I measured current draw at 100% fan and the total system draw was around 350 mA. I also have an offset smoker, and this fan does a much better job of controlling the charcoal than the fan...

Part of the reason it took long for my order was the Holiday season and there was an error in the shipping. Laen is pretty good about posting updates about delays. If you haven't already, you might want to check the dorkbot site for any updates. -Brian

When I ordered my boards, it took over a month to get them back.

The WRT54G version 4 is the same board layout as the WRT54GL, so it is a good alternative if you can't get your hands on the GL or if you want a lower cost option.

I "accidentally" let 5V touch the 3.3V serial connection on the router and I can with absolute certainty say it does kill your router. No magic smoke, but the next time you turn the router on you will have lit LEDs, but no activity.

I was able to use my 4 way switch on 0.1 inch spaced perf board. It just took some careful persuasion. You may be able to do the same thing with your protoboards.

This is why I think it will be more of a "Look what I can do" addition as opposed to an actual functional improvement. Seems only a few people have posted pictures of their build. Has anyone chosen to ditch the linksys case and make a custom enclosure?

Looks cool but does it work </div></BLOCKQUOTE> This iteration isn't functional yet. The first version I had was built with a similar look, but harcoded for the heatermeter network address 192.168.1.252. It worked great, but lacked functionality because I built it in the Android App...

Hey, new poster here... I had a working heatermeter with the wishield and have recently completed building my linkmeter. The work Bryan has put in and the collaboration that goes on in this forum is great. It is nice to see everyone help everyone. I have an offset smoker which admittedly...

Your error is not uncommon. I was having the same issues. Check out the forum post linked below. There is a bug in the bootloader that causes the upload to fail for large sketch sizes. http://www.arduino.cc/cgi-bin/...BB.pl?num=1287435600