Stoker and Network Connetion around blocked Port 80


 
G

Guest

Guest
New Stoker hooked up to network at home.
All port forwarded. All technically OK.
Can pick up the stoker on the Mac using both the house network and the outside internet IPs.
This tells me all is set up perfect.

Here is the issue that must have been talked about here:
The Stoker operates using a static, unchangable Port 80 for communication.
Unfortunately, nearly all ISPs (including mine) block Port 80.
I have spoke to my ISP (who tried to sell me a static IP for $20.00 a month that would open Port 80) and Linksys who told me in no uncertain terms, without Port 80 being open at the ISP, this unit was not going to be getting seen from anywhere but within out home network.

Rock at Rock's BBQ insists there is a workaround.

Has anyone got this figured out.

Also, when using The Stoker, what is the best position for the daisy wheel ?
I have kept it slid closed with the small holes all open but seems like I could go with half that as the Stoker is set for 235º but hasn't kicked on in hours as the temp has sat at about 255º for the last few hours.
I do understand that getting an XL to give up some heat is difficult . . .
 
Disregard the last Egg related paragraph unless you are an egger with an answer.
I have adapters for both my WSM's and XL Egg and posted this on the egg forum as well.
 
Ray,
Some of the responses I have gotten on 2 other BBQ forums include having a router with Port Translation.

There is also an add on for routers that was described here

DD-WRT

Look for my posts on the subject at either of the other two forums that would make sense to have asked at as well.

Still looking for anyone with simple work arounds here.
 
We have other experts that I am sure can walk you through it.

I have not done it but the process should work like this.

Log into the administrative port of your router (how you originally configured it).

Find Port Forwarding in there.

Tell it to add a new entry for HTTP.

Then give it a port number. You get to make up this number. If it is a range, you can pick the same number for both. For example, 7000 and 7000.

Make sure you have a static IP address for the stoker (this is good for other things anyway). Specicify this IP address in above port forwarding entry for the server address.

Then from the outside, use the above made up port number after the IP address. For example, 24.16.35.88:7000.

Your router would then take the above, map it to the internal IP address of the stoker and change the port number from 7000 to 80.
 
Amir
Have tried this (using port 8081) with no success.
When on the phone with Lynksys support it was explained while yes, you can get around to getting at the stoker by using the forwarded port number, the Stoker still wants to speak back using Port 80, which is still blocked by the ISP.
Even tried Port Triggering using 8081 and having it trigger to 80 with the same negative result.

I do have the static IP for the stoker. I can access it by both the internal and external IPs so I know the configuring is correct.

Hoping said experts do check in.
 
Ah, didn't realize that
icon_smile.gif
.

I do know that others have it working as they asked me to add the port number to stokerlog. Look in the stokerlog thread for the person who asked for it. And send him a PM.

Sure would be an easy change inside stoker to listen to a different port. Maybe I can convince them one day to do this.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Amir:


Sure would be an easy change inside stoker to listen to a different port. Maybe I can convince them one day to do this. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yes, having the ability to adjust which port it uses would solve infinite problems.
It has to be a mandatory change in upcoming software.

Also looking forwardd to the Mac version of your Stokerlog program . . .
 
You need 3 things working to be able to do this.
1. Port translation. If your ISP blocks port 80, you need this, some routers don't have it. This is a router feature that translates a port request on the outside of the home network, say 8081, and translates it to the internal network port 80.
#2 Port forwarding, When you router sees a request for port 8081, it sends it to the correct device on the network, in this case the Stoker.
#3 this was the kicker in my network. The router must see the inside device that has a static IP address. By seeing I mean, it must be identified in the client list. My router will not do it, and a bunch of other routers will not do it. If the Stoker obtained the IP through DHCP, all this other stuff will work. Some routers have a reservation feature, which will assign the same IP to a device every time based upon the mac address. On the routers that will not see these devices correctly, you can set the lease not to expire automatically, and you should only have to be concerned if you loose power to the router.

If your router does not support #1, you must find another router because the stoker will only use port 80 in the current form.

Most routers support port forwarding.
 
Is Port Triggering the same as Port Translation? My Router has something called Port Triggering, but nothing called Port Translation...
 
Thanks Ken,
As it seems all roads leading to Port Translation, which Ray is different than Port Triggering.

My Lynksys which is four years old does not have Port Translation so it is with great regret (as points 2 and 3 are met) I will not be able to show friends at cocktail parties what my cookers are doing at the moment ! :)
But I will be sure to look for that feature should a new router be in my future.
That may be the next time my network guy is nearby or when the current one goes bad, but I think this quest is nearing it's end.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Perry Bax:
I will not be able to show friends at cocktail parties what my cookers are doing at the moment ! :). </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Stokerlog can email you full graphs of the stoker in addition to temp/alarm readins. So if you are willing to fire up a PC
icon_smile.gif
, you would be good to go as far as party talk.
icon_biggrin.gif
 
Good point Amir, I get a lot of comments when I get a text message from my port butts while on the golf course, some of them not so flattering, but mostly they are very impressed.
 
And since we are talking Stoker . . .
How do you guys set the top vent when using the Stoker ?

On my Egg, and from advice from the Egg Forum (and it seems to be correct) is keeping it shut down or nary a crack at best.
I worry about the effects of no exhaust and creosote etc. but it seems to be working out on the egg so wondering how you guys approach it on the WSM.
I have yet to do a run with any of my WSM's yet, which is a shame as I was hoping to use The Stoker in Elk Grove this weekend.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Perry Bax:
And since we are talking Stoker . . .
How do you guys set the top vent when using the Stoker ?

On my Egg, and from advice from the Egg Forum (and it seems to be correct) is keeping it shut down or nary a crack at best. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I use another brand of cermaic smoker. And for that, I open the top vent at must a quarter of an inch.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I worry about the effects of no exhaust and creosote etc. but it seems to be working out on the egg so wondering how you guys approach it on the WSM. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I assume you use natural lump. If so, there is nothing to worry about there. If you are using manufactured product, then I would correct that before worrying about stoker
icon_smile.gif
.

With my ceramic smoker, a single bag lasts about 20 hours. I usually stop at 16 and have a bit left. This is at 220 to 230 degrees.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Amir:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Perry Bax:
And since we are talking Stoker . . .
How do you guys set the top vent when using the Stoker ?

On my Egg, and from advice from the Egg Forum (and it seems to be correct) is keeping it shut down or nary a crack at best. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I use another brand of cermaic smoker. And for that, I open the top vent at must a quarter of an inch.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I worry about the effects of no exhaust and creosote etc. but it seems to be working out on the egg so wondering how you guys approach it on the WSM. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I assume you use natural lump. If so, there is nothing to worry about there. If you are using manufactured product, then I would correct that before worrying about stoker
icon_smile.gif
.

With my ceramic smoker, a single bag lasts about 20 hours. I usually stop at 16 and have a bit left. This is at 220 to 230 degrees. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

So you are saying when using lump, that on a WSM you are leaving the top vent open 1/4 or is that just for your ceramic?

I use both. In fact, will use the Stoker to operate them at the same time if I need the capacity.
But am still unclear of the top vent position with the WSM with the Stoker?
 
I can't answer for the WSM but generally speaking, with a fan blown system, less is better and will produce less temperature fluctuations. A larger vent at top lets more heat escape, and causes more fluctuations but will produce more more smoke.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">And since we are talking Stoker . . .
How do you guys set the top vent when using the Stoker ? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I use my Stoker a little differently than others do; I operated with my top vent 100% open and use a clay saucer instead of just a foiled pan. Runs great in this configuration.
 
With my WSM, I run the top vent at about 25% open for cooks up to 250F. On higher temp cooks, I run 50% open. The smaller opening eliminates much of the natural draft and allows the Stoker to have more complete control over the smoker temps.

On your port forwarding question, I have a Linux computer as my home router, and simply forwarding the port I use (30000) to the Stoker on port 80 has allowed me access from outside my home network.
 
I think this software package will do what you need:
http://sourceforge.net/projects/pjs-passport/

1) Set up your router to PORT FORWARD to a windows machine on your internal network, any port you choose. You were using 8081, that will work fine.

2) On that Windows machine, install PassPort (100% free). Configure a forward that uses your Windows machine IP address and port 8081 as the source address, and the Stoker IP address and port 80 as the destination address. PassPort will do the address translation for you.

3) Start (or restart) the PassPort service. Looks like it only takes changes on a restart.

Let me know if you have any issues.

-Matt
 
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