Nevada > Las Vegas: John Mull's Road Kill Grill


 

Chris Allingham

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http://johnmullsmeats.com/road-kill-grill

John Mull's Meats & Road Kill Grill
3730 Thom Blvd.
Las Vegas, NV 89130
(702) 645-1200
About a 20 minute drive northeast from the Las Vegas Strip, located in a commercial/residential neighborhood.

John Mull's Road Kill Grill was featured on Diners, Drive-Ins & Dives with Guy Fieri in May 2012. I thought it would be an interesting place to check-out in Las Vegas, as it's basically an outdoor restaurant in the parking lot across from John Mull's Meats and Deer Processing.

Two big grills/smokers sit alongside a U-shaped serving area with steam trays for hot foods and iced serving areas for slaw, potato salad, and soft drinks in cans. You get in line to place your order, then continue in line to pay at the register, then on to the serving area where your order is assembled into a Styrofoam box. You eat at big picnic tables, most covered by a tent for shade, and there are a couple of flat panel TVs for watching the game. T-shirts and caps are for sale as souvenirs.

All the usual suspects were there...brisket, spareribs, rib tips, pulled pork, hot links, 1/4 chicken, and pulled chicken. Meats are served as single meat dinners, 2- and 3-meat combos, and sandwiches. Sides include potato and mac salads, coleslaw, baked beans, mac & cheese, and green beans. Dessert consists of peach and apple cobblers. Beverages are soft drinks and water, no alcohol.

I would have to say that none of what I had was spectacular. I had brisket and pulled pork. The brisket was very thinly sliced, probably on a meat slicer, and kept warm and moist in a deep pan full of broth. Either it was alright or I was starving because I ate all the brisket. The pulled pork was a bit oversauced and had OK texture. It came with a soft roll tossed on top of the meat and smashed by the Styrofoam lid that you could use to make a small sandwich. I ate about half the pork. In hindsight, I'm not sure why I didn't think to order the ribs, those might have been the best thing there and I didn't even try them. I had the baked beans and mac & cheese...nothing special there.

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I had the pleasure of sharing lunch with TVWBB member JSteffen who lives in Vegas, and we agreed that we could make BBQ that easily surpassed what we'd eaten here. However, I always acknowledge the difficulty of making decent barbecue at this scale and in an open parking lot, no less. I would not want to have that task.

After lunch, we went across the parking lot to the meat market and checked that out. It's not much to look from the outside or from the inside, for that matter...no glass case with meat inside. You place your order from a printed price list, the meat cutter brings out the meat and cuts it to order, places it in a lug that is carried up to the front counter, where it's weighed, priced, wrapped, and you pay. JSteffen ordered a slab of spareribs to cook at home the next day, trimmed to St. Louis style and rib tips. Looks like the meat market might be the strong suit of this place, as they offer a big selection of custom cuts.

Anyway, if you're looking for a funky BBQ experience and/or you like to try places featured on Triple D, give John Mull's Road Kill Grill a try.

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As a Las Vegas resident I can pretty much agree with the above review. Mulls is a better butcher than BBQ joint but its not bad just not great. Its definitely in a funky location which is pretty much a residential neighborhood. If you didnt know it was there you would never stumble upon it.
 

 

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