temp control depends on which meat?

Getting ready fore my 2nd go round on my WSM 18.5. 1st smoke was with no water in pan, foil wrapped saucer instead. Full rack pork ribs, which came out very nice. The only concern I had was that in order to keep temp low enough I had to close all bottom vents almost 100% This didn't seem to allow enough air flow to really keep the coals going. I had to open vents every once in a while then things would get too hot and I would close again. This wasn't a smoke and go away type proposition, ok, but not expected. I figured that for my 2nd go round I am going to try starting the smoker with HOT water in the pan, trying to keep temp at 225-250, which was diffcult without water I averaged about 260 and had peaks at 280. I want to see how much more coal I consume using water. My other question is. If I find it better to not use water in the pan due to high fuel comsumption, what about putting a pan of water on the lower shelf to gererate moisture. This does not seem to me that it would act as a heat damper but still have an advatage of moisture production. Also seems to me if I want the smoker temp in the 300s say for chicken I would eliminate water in the pan but if I want lower smoke temps for butts, ribs and brisket I might want water. Well I will find out.

Mark

Water in the cooker - no matter where it is placed - will act as a heat sink.

The meats you're cooking have enough moisture. Adding water to the cooker does not generate a moist enough environment to make a significant impact.

No need to chase temps. If doing a Minion start, start closing off vents a bit when 25-35 degrees shy of your target. Allow 20-30 min for the vent change to take effect, then, if needed, make tiny changes, allowing 20-30 min for each change to be effective, noting during this period whether the rate of change is slowing or speeding (depending on whether you closed or opened, respectively). You'll get used to how vent changes affect temps in short order.

Personally, for low/slow cooking, I'd target 250-260 and be happy if the cooker settled anywhere between 245 and 270, not bothering to make any adjustments unless higher or lower than this range.

I agree with KK you should try the minion method as it doesn't seem like you used it the first time. You will also find that you will use less fuel in addition to maintaining lower temps more easily.

You will see significant increase fuel consumption using water. If it helps you cook good food it's worth it.

You can, however, control temperatures without water and do it more precisely than needed for any practical purpose. It will take very small adjustments to the vents, but you can do it.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by B Mann:
I agree with KK you should try the minion method as it doesn't seem like you used it the first time. You will also find that you will use less fuel in addition to maintaining lower temps more easily. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I did use the Minion method. About 3/4 cold lump on bottom and about 1/2 chimney hot on top. I had coals left over and all was well except that with 2/3 of the bottom vents closed and the remaining barely open, by barely open I mean I closed it all the way then opened as little as possible. I could not keep the temps as low as I wanted and when looking at the coals after a couple hours they seemed to be going out or at least starving for air. Perhaps the WSM can keep coals going with 3 bottom vents 100% closed, but I was affraid to try that. I do want to conserve fuel as much as possible but also want my temps a bit lower than 160 average.

Mark

Start with fewer lit, maybe 20. For lower temps go ahead and use water in thr pan. As noted above, start closing vents when 25-35? shy of target, maybe to 1/4 or so open.

I see no benefit in cooking lower than 250 but you can if you wish.

I just remembered that I read the smoker temp typically runs higher on new units. Perhaps that is what I am seeing. Does anyone have any data that shows how long the new unit will run hotter and by what measure, ie does it run 5 degrees, 10 degrees or 20 degrees hotter compared to a well broken in WSM?

Every unit is going to behave slightly different and it will matter what you are cooking. The idea is that after a couple runs you will have enough grease on the inside to seal up some of the gaps and take some of the "shine" off the inside surface that makes it reflect heat (as opposed to absorbing it).

I have to agree 100% with Kevin. Start with a lot fewer and just work it up to your range. I tend to start with 14-20 briqs depending on weather and I have no issues hitting my targets. Also I completely agree with just letting it ride. Don't be too picky about temps. The dry method of cooking can lead to yo-yo'ing temps if you are changing vents all the time since the pan or saucer with cause the temp to be "sticky". This usually results in over adjustment