looking for replacement dc power jack for the RCA jack


 

D Peart

TVWBB Pro
Has anyone found a replacement part for the blower RCA jack? To be honest I haven't ever used it because I can't hook my fan up to it. Not really wanting to have to create a converter cable if I don't have to.

I may just redo the board using a dc power jack instead and buy three more boards, but I'm hoping to find a drop in replacement.

thanks,
dave
 
The mouser part is a RCA jack. My fan and SSR use a DC power jack, as I use them with my BBQ Guru as well. I'm just wanting to make them all compatible with each other. The HM 4.0 looks so clean with the 3d printed case, I just hate the idea of having a big ol'dongle hanging off it. And I don't like the idea of using an RCA jack for power.

dave

What's up? Does the mouser part not work?
 
A couple thoughts, you could use the blower pin header and install a drill through barrel jack elsewhere in the case or if you want to still use the stock case location, you could epoxy a thru hole jack onto the board on its side and just solder to the blower pin header, you might even be able to solder the ground terminal directly to the board.
 
Maybe I could cut the terminals off the jack, epoxy it to the board in place, then use wire to hook it up.

I looked into putting in a new jack, rerouting, but it turns out the board seems to be too big to run in the free version of Eagle. At least that is the error I get when I try to re-route the design with a power jack on it.

dave

A couple thoughts, you could use the blower pin header and install a drill through barrel jack elsewhere in the case or if you want to still use the stock case location, you could epoxy a thru hole jack onto the board on its side and just solder to the blower pin header, you might even be able to solder the ground terminal directly to the board.
 
Yeah I ended up buying EAGLE just so I could get to 4.1" width. If the RaspberryPi was only a tenth of an inch smaller with the SD card inserted, it can be edited with the free version. I think you can edit it if you do "ripup *" on the little command edit box, which will remove all the signal traces. You'll then need to move the probe jacks inside the allowed dimensions to be able to run wires to them.
 
I looked a bunch trying to find a compatible DC power jack and couldn't find anything either. My Auber fan uses a dc connector and I'm not real enthused about cutting the end off it and putting on an RCA plug.

Here's what my "dongle" looks like. It would be nice if there was a dc adapter right on the heatermeter, but this isn't too bad.

IMG_3407Small_zps84a449bf.jpg


IMG_20130209_1302081_zpsa643f49b.jpg


IMG_3409Small-Copy_zps9ee131fd.jpg
 
I was able to swap out the jack and just manually routed it up. I have it clean, and it misses the power adapter behind it, and the header on the right and the regulator on the left. Holy crap that thing is wedged in there :)

However the jack I have is too short. I want to be able to make it work and still fit the 3d printed cases. Off to mouser to see if I can find a "taller" one.

dave

Yeah I ended up buying EAGLE just so I could get to 4.1" width. If the RaspberryPi was only a tenth of an inch smaller with the SD card inserted, it can be edited with the free version. I think you can edit it if you do "ripup *" on the little command edit box, which will remove all the signal traces. You'll then need to move the probe jacks inside the allowed dimensions to be able to run wires to them.
 
I had a DC power jack sitting around so I thought I'd try to just replace the RCA jack with the power jack and some short jumper wires. I used 18guage solid copper wire because it is somewhat sturdy.

I was able to use the jumper wire to hook up the dc power jack and if I turned the jack on its side it fit in the case perfectly. If you look at the case you'd think it was planned that way. Now looking inside the case you can see that I had to get creative with the wiring, but I"m happy to report that it works great.

The 12v supply from the linksys routers use a 2.1 mm inside diameter barrel. My fan/SSR use a 2.5 mm barrel. So by using both sizes you can ensure that no one accidentally inserts the power into the blower jack, as it just won't fit. That is why I'm comfortable having the same "looking" jack for both purposes.

dave
 
My fan/SSR use a 2.5 mm barrel. So by using both sizes you can ensure that no one accidentally inserts the power into the blower jack, as it just won't fit. That is why I'm comfortable having the same "looking" jack for both purposes.
Oh nice! I was wondering about how to prevent the wrong thing getting plugged in and I think that solves it. I think the next major HM revision will use that so folks can use an off-the-shelf blower.
 
Yeah I ended up buying EAGLE just so I could get to 4.1" width. If the RaspberryPi was only a tenth of an inch smaller with the SD card inserted, it can be edited with the free version. I think you can edit it if you do "ripup *" on the little command edit box, which will remove all the signal traces. You'll then need to move the probe jacks inside the allowed dimensions to be able to run wires to them.

FYI, you can cut the SD card down as seen here: http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=31609
 
I've got one of those adapters, and I didn't realize you could just cut most SD cards in half. Who knew there was nothing inside there? I wanted to design the board to work with standard full sized SD cards though, because that's what folks have.

How does one flash an SD card image once you've cut it in half I wonder. All my card readers are deep so the half-sized card would just go in and never come out again.
 
How about a scotch tape flag on the top? This could either be left on and will bend out of the way, or just added when you are reflashing. Confusing text pic:

Code:
     ____
 ___|__  \
|      |  |
|      |  |
|___ __|  |
    |_____|

I've got one of those adapters, and I didn't realize you could just cut most SD cards in half. Who knew there was nothing inside there? I wanted to design the board to work with standard full sized SD cards though, because that's what folks have.

How does one flash an SD card image once you've cut it in half I wonder. All my card readers are deep so the half-sized card would just go in and never come out again.
 

 

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