Milk, for tenderizing proteins?


 
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Rita Y

TVWBB Emerald Member
Milk seems to tenderize the beef in Bolognese sauce. Will it do the same for poultry, such as ground turkey? I'm thinking turkey meatballs.

Rita
 
No.

Bolognese, correctly prepared with hand-minced meat(s) (not ground), gets its tenderness from the braising of the meat, not the addition of the milk. The milk, added after the sofrito has sauteed and the meat has grayed, actually serves to lessen the assault of the acidity the meat will shortly experience when the tomato and white wine are added afte the milk has cooked off.

If using ground meat (be it in the Bolognese or for meatballs), tenderizing isn't required as grinding accomplishes this. However, milk used in Bolognese made with ground meat can give the illusion of 'more tender'. What's happening is that the milk, its water evaporated off during the simmering stage before the acids are added, is concentrated, both in flavor and in protein/fat, especially fat. This concentration buffers the acids, as noted, but it also boosts mouth feel and richness, reading as 'more tender'.

If using ground turkey the turkey is already tender. You can, however, add milk to the mix to create a similar illusion. You can, if you wish, reduce the milk first (or use evaporated). Alternatively, you can braise the meatballs in milk much as Bolognese is prepared (don't use too much), allowing the milk to completely evaporate off its water and concentrate. You can then finish the dish, if you wish, by adding wine (or wine and stock), allowing the liquids to reduce. (You can remove the meatballs before this step, reduce, then adjust seasonings and return the meatballs; or you can do this after this step in which case be careful of liquid quantities as you do not want to take too long to reduce and overcook the meatballs.)

If you are interested in marinating an intact hunk of turkey before grinding it coarsely (or hand-mincing it finely), as opposed to purchasing already-ground turkey, for meatballs, use buttermilk or yogurt for the marinade. The acidity of either is mild, but enough to tenderize without making the flesh mushy from over-denaturing of the proteins.
 
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