Sealing access door all together


 

Brandon A

TVWBB All-Star
I was thinking, since I have used the access door maybe twice since I've purchased it, and I cant seem to bend it properly to fit, why not seal it off completely? I use the "hot squat" method if I need to access or add fuel to the bottom section. I was just wondering what I could use to seal it. Would some automotive liquid gasket maker work? Or does anyone have a better idea?

Brandon
 
Duct tape my friend, Duct tape
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I used aluminum tape. Home Depot has a small roll for about $7 if I remember correctly. It's about three inches wide.
 
I agree with Al on using the metal tape. I use it to seal two vent holes when I am using the BBQ Guru. It holds up just fine and it will come off easily if you want to open the door.

I did by a roll at HD, and it was 7 bucks for the three inch wide tape. However, I remember that they had narrow metal tape that only cost a couple of bucks, and that should be enough to seal your door.
 
I was looking for something a little more aestheticly pleasing then duct tape, Rich...
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I've seen pics of your beast. The aluminum tape is a little better. I bought a roll of 3M high temp flue tape. Its 1 1/2" and says for use up to 600 degrees F. I still would like to find a way to seal it descretely.

Brandon
 
You could just run a small bead of black high-temp silicone around the opening, then reinsert the door and latch it in place. Once the silicone cures, the door is fixed in place, the gap around it is sealed, and there's no tape to spoil the aesthetics.
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Here's the specs on this stuff: Resistant to most chemicals and solvents. Low volatility silicone fills gaps to 0.25". Tack-free in 30 minutes. Temperature range: -75°F to 625°F (intermittent). Non-corrosive. Made in the USA.
 
Hrmmm, that gives me an idea Larry. I wonder if you could put some of that high heat silicon down. Wait till its almost dry, and then install the door, then remove door to let silicon finish drying. This might be a good idea to help fill the gaps some, so that way you could still use the door, but it has more of a custom fit to it.
 
Eric,

Let me know how it turns out if you try that. I just put the aluminum tape on so I'm going to give that a try before I go spend more money on the Loctite. I really do like the idea though. Thanks Larry
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Brandon
 
Eric, maybe you should put some vasoline on the door first. It might help the silicon from sticking to it. Otherwise I think that's a great idea.
 
Good call Dave! I think with letting it sit for a bit then with the vasoline it should make a better fit.
 
Originally posted by Eric G:
Good call Dave! I think with letting it sit for a bit then with the vasoline it should make a better fit.
In situations like this I always just put a layer of wax paper between the sticky stuff and the stuff I don't want it to stick to. Vaseline would probably work, but it's kind of messy.
 
You can use the high-temp Permatex (orange) found at autoparts stores.

I'd put it on the door, then put the vasoline (or WD40) on the smoker to keep the Permatex from sticking permanently. Once it dries, pull the door back off and wipe of the vasoline/WD40.

I think the Permatex will stick to the wax paper.
 
I would think it would make the most sense to put something on the door and protect the WSM versus the other way around because you can always buy a new door of you don't like the results. I wouldn't want to scrap silicone off my WSM if it wasn't what I wanted.
 
Originally posted by Ray Ansari:
You can use the high-temp Permatex (orange) found at autoparts stores.
That would work. I only suggested the black because it won't show - or at least, not nearly as much as orange would.
 
The black might work fine, just have to check the temp range it can handle with out burning. I know the orange can take high heat.

I actually used it to make my Polder dual probe hold up to repeated use; It's the one with the oven temp and food temp in one probe. I did a search on this board AFTER I bought it and it had a bad reputation for going bad. I sealed the end where the braided cable enters the probe as well as the two seams on the fat "oven-temp" part of the probe. But I digress....sorry to wander off topic!
 
I find it useful to have a leaky door when I want to do a high heat cook. Mine lets in a relatively small amount of air when it is flipped upside down, but when it is right side up, it has a bigger gap. The latter is useful when I want to run hot for chicken or something like that.
 
I agree that having a leaky door has its advantages. However since I sealed my door using aluminum tape, I cant belive how much fuel I am saving. I recently switched to the clay saucer method also, so that may have something to do with it. But I find that I am over estimating the amount of charcoal I need for a cook by quite a bit. So for that reason, I think I will stick with a sealed door and purchase myself some of the silicone and ditch the not so eye pleasing aluminum tape. Anyone up for drilling holes in the access door and installing a damper vent
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you know for those turkey cooks. (as long as it dosent leak) then we'd be right back where we started.

Brandon
 
A little off topic but because we ae discussing the access door-I love all my Weber stuff but if I had to complain about something the access door would be it. Why they put such a cheep door on such an otherwise awesome cooker is beyond me. I wish the fine people at Weber-Stephens would have made the door a bit thicker and put a hinge on it. And the knob on the door is driving me nuts! It is constantly coming loose.
Okay, I had my rant about the ONLY thing Weber has ever made that met with my disaproval.
I Love My WSM.
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Originally posted by Steve Whiting:
And the knob on the door is driving me nuts! It is constantly coming loose.

Amen to that. The only solution I found is to always turn the knob clockwise, never counterclockwise. But you'd think Weber could come up with a better design.
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