Stoker and Duracell Powerpack 600


 

Benny A

TVWBB Member
I promised to post results of my first use of the Powerpack to run the Stoker. I cooked for 12 hours with Stoker and 10cfm fan receiving power from the Powerpack 600. At the end of the cook, the Powerpack indicated 30% was remaining. It certainly is an effective way to guarantee an uninterupted power source for the Stoker and I am likely to use it even when power is available at contest sites (just in case).
Benny
 
Hi Benny,

I have the same battery pack. I used it at comps this summer and it powered 3 4 cfm stoker blowers for 20 hours with no problem. It paid for itself in 2 competitions that wanted $50 for electric.
 
Pat,

Thanks for the info. I was tempted to hook the battery from my van to the Powerpack but decided to see just how many hours I could get. Next time, I will add some flourescent lights during part of the cook.

Benny
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Benny A:
I promised to post results of my first use of the Powerpack to run the Stoker. I cooked for 12 hours with Stoker and 10cfm fan receiving power from the Powerpack 600. At the end of the cook, the Powerpack indicated 30% was remaining. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Benny, 30% left after only 12 hrs of cooking seems like a high power usage to me. Granted there's more going on with the stocker but.... I have a Guru competitor and only use a cheap 300 amp Wal Mart jumper pack and have gone over 36 hrs. without a charge.
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I really want to get one of those Duracell 600 packs.
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FWIW, I seem to end up at 30% quite often. I don't know how reliable the usage gauge is.

I'd be careful adding lights. I was going to add some rope lights but after doing the math, it was way too much pull and I can't risk running out of power at a comp. But like you said, you can always utilize your van battery if you run out. I think you just hook up the jumper cables and it feeds off of it...I should really know how to do that in case it happens.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Pat McCreight:
FWIW, I seem to end up at 30% quite often. I don't know how reliable the usage gauge is. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Indeed. The science behind battery gauges is pretty weak.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">But like you said, you can always utilize your van battery if you run out. I think you just hook up the jumper cables and it feeds off of it...I should really know how to do that in case it happens. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
If possible, I would go through the cigarette lighter socket. That way, it is fused and much safer than going through the battery cables and risk shorting something out that way. The hitch is if the socket is switched and not on when the car is off.
 
I'll have to run a test with the van. It has both a cigarette light and an accessory socket. The manual for the Powerpack is not clear about using the battery via the plugs except for charging while the engine is on. The manual is clear about using the jumper cables and a battery to run the 110v appliances. I'll contact Duracell with those questions. Anyone out there with experience using the socket while running 110v?

Benny
 
The 110 answer depends on how much power you draw from it. The box is rated at 600 watts. Assuming 90% efficiency, it would need 660 watts input which translates to 660/12 = 55 amps. I suspect the lighter socket has a fuse at 20 amps so it will surely blow if you are drawing max power. This is the reason they are not recommending using the socket.

In case of Stoker adapter and a low-wattage light though, I suspect you are well within the socket output power.
 
Amir,

Thanks for the explaination on watts/amps relationship. I'm not too technical so that was very helpful. I will try the socket out next time. There is a gauge to see one's current draw in watts on the Powerpack which showed "0" throughout the cooking session. So, assuming the guage is somewhat accurate, the Stoker was not even drawing one watt of power as it was being used. How much power do you think the Powerpack loses in cold temps?

Thanks, Benny
 
Looking at the specs, this unit uses a higher performance AGM (lead acid) battery. I don't know who makes their battery but performance of AGM batteries do drop with temp. I did a quick search and found this graph for a certain brand: http://ece-www.colorado.edu/~ecen4517/components/agmbatterycapvstemp.pdf

As you see there, at 32 degrees F, you lose 20% of capacity. You lose half the capacity around -13 degrees. At -40, you only have 30% left. I would derate these some as I supsect the battery is of lower quality than the one graphed here.

As to stoker, it pulls too little power for the meter to register. Those watt meters don't have good accuracy at low power consumption. You could plug something else in there at the same time and then test with or without stoker and see if that shows anything.
 

 

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