Stoker blower/probe interaction issue


 
J

Jim Smithson

TVWBB Fan
My Stoker has had the issue where the probes seem to +/- 4 Deg during use...they just switch back and forth.

I determined today, that when the blower is on the probes read the high temp, when the blower turns off, the probes drop about 4 deg....so then the blower turns on again and the temp immediately jumps up (probably driving the software crazy....if it could go crazy).

now, I have my blower/probes connection via a radio shack stereo headphone extension. I use 2 stereo splitters to combine the 2 probes and blower into the single stereo extension.

I have not tried, but will next smoke, removing these connections and seeing if this removes this issue.

Does anyone else run this setup and can verify this is what is happening? Somehow the signals are getting modifying when combining?
 
Here is the graph from the cook. I got wild oscillations this time...I decreased the top vent to about 20% at the end and you see it oscillated even more. It seems to wait until the temp drops way below the target, then cranks the fan and it overshoots..etc..



You can also see the fan on/off with the probe instability I mentioned.
 
Jim,

How long have you had your Stoker? I would like to get one but am a little apprehensive about seeing quite a few people have erratic behavior from their units. Just to clarify, were you using the radio shack connections for the chart that you posted?

Troy
 
I have had it since Jan of this year.

I do love it and any erratic behavior is not the norm...it is typically something else causing.

e.g. my radio shack extenders or I do not have the top vents adjusted correctly.

In this case, I also think the fact I have a very small fire going caused some instability.

Next time I will control without the extenders but today there was rain and I wanted the Stoker indoors.
 
Originally posted by Jim Smithson:
Here is the graph from the cook. I got wild oscillations this time...I decreased the top vent to about 20% at the end and you see it oscillated even more. It seems to wait until the temp drops way below the target, then cranks the fan and it overshoots..etc..



You can also see the fan on/off with the probe instability I mentioned.
Click to expand...

I think you need to re-examine your vent settings, voice of experience here. I experienced similar fluctuations and after speaking with John at Rock's I loaded my cooker with lump and did a dry run so I could learn how to set my vents. My cooks are much much more stable now.

If it weren't for the Stoker Log app my temp swings would probably still be all over the place and I would be none the wiser.

Troy, if I were in the position where I needed to buy a unit again I would without hesitation purchase the Stoker. Maybe the reason people talk more about Stoker fluctuations and temp swings is because we are able to log and monitor the temperatures almost instantaneously via computer, something not easily done with other units. FWIW, I am not a fanboy of any product, I own a BGE but if I were to purchase again I would get an XL Oval from the other guys. It's an all around more versatile unit.
 
Thanks Jim. I am looking forward to seeing what happens on your next test.

Joe, thanks for the advice. I think I will go ahead and get one. As I have said in a previous post, I live in about the windiest place on earth and I need some help not to mention that I am a huge geek.

Thanks,
Troy
 
Jim, are you able to temporarily test the stoker without the extensions?

Problem with using RS cables is that they are for low-level audio signals. The blower in the stoker requiers a lot of current (relatively speaking) and adding wire makes the job of stoker that much harder. It is possible that the extra load causes a voltage drop which impacts the reading from the probes.

So at least try to get rid of the extension for the blower and see if that fixes the problem. if it does, then you should make your own cables or buy one from John.
 
Troy, temp stability can be superb with the stoker and right settings. In my last few cooks I have managed +- 2 degrees! This is way better than any kitchen oven. I have a ceramic cooker so the experience may be different for others. But one can get remarkable performance with this system as the sensing gear in stoker seems far more accurate and faster than what is used in home cooking appliances.
 
Originally posted by Amir:
Jim, are you able to temporarily test the stoker without the extensions?

Problem with using RS cables is that they are for low-level audio signals. The blower in the stoker requiers a lot of current (relatively speaking) and adding wire makes the job of stoker that much harder. It is possible that the extra load causes a voltage drop which impacts the reading from the probes.

So at least try to get rid of the extension for the blower and see if that fixes the problem. if it does, then you should make your own cables or buy one from John.
Click to expand...

Yes, i will try without the extension next. If that works, I will get a 2nd extension and run the blower by itself.

thx
 
Originally posted by Troy Gamm:
Jim,

How long have you had your Stoker? I would like to get one but am a little apprehensive about seeing quite a few people have erratic behavior from their units. Just to clarify, were you using the radio shack connections for the chart that you posted?

Troy
Click to expand...

Hi Troy:

GordS here ...

Re your question about the Radio Shack connections. Because I have 3 blowers I use a series of the RS connections. I use 2 cable splitters and 9 adapters to allow me to control 3 blowers, 3 pit temperature sensors and 6 meat temperature sensors. Haven't had a problem yet with temp fluctuations. All rock solid.

Good luck with your purchase and the wind.


Gord
 
Well, it took me quite some time to test my WSM without the extensions etc.

here is my rib cook:


I do not see the back and forth oscillations. However, I am getting +/- 5F throughout the cook. I have seen this before..the fan doesnt even kick in until it gets -5F below the target. Again, using Stokerlog is probably the only way I even know this. However, I do recall much more stable runs in the past.

Could very well be:
- using clay pot base...NOT water. I think Water still gives the most stable temps
- Maybe adjust the vents more...I am at 50%...it seems if I go less, the oscillations are worse.
- hot sorta windy day...but this is my least concern.
 
I have a had a couple of cooks where the temp variations went a little bazzar on me as well. I was out checking on that very thing when I noticed that the blower should have been running but wasn't. I put my finger ont he fan blade, moved it and it started running. After that it smothed out. I don't think the fan was running when it was supposed to, but only kicked in when the temp got so low it kicked it up to a higher rate, this gave it the voltage that it needed to start it self up. It is supposed to run at a 1-10 level. When it's right, it does. The odd thing is, it's never happened again. Go figure.
 
I recently made an extension cable for the blower and temp probes. I wanted to keep my stoker in the house out of bad weather. I noticed that a get a 5 degree jump in temps from both the pit temp and meat temp. when ever the blower kick on. Is this because i'm using an extension? I have blower and temp probes on the same cable. I would remove the ext. but don't have a long network cable to test with.

Is the blower causing this? Will running a separate ext. cable for the blower fix it?

BTW, this is my first smoke using stokerlog and i only have one other smoke using the stoker.

Thanks
Kenny
 
Fixed my own problem...Blower and temp probes should be separate. I went to Radio Shack and bought the material to make a new patch cord just for the blower and now everything is ok.

Kenny
 
Originally posted by Kenny Davis:
Fixed my own problem...Blower and temp probes should be separate. I went to Radio Shack and bought the material to make a new patch cord just for the blower and now everything is ok.

Kenny
Click to expand...

Can you (or anyone for that matter) post up the Radio Shack part #s necessary to create your own cable? I have 4 of the 25' extensions, but I don't like having the connections for each cable laying on the ground (smoker is 100' from the house so 4 cables gets to be expensive). I'd rather have a single solid cable -- actually 2 cables so I can have the fan on it's own cable.

Thanks.
 
Originally posted by Steve Story:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Kenny Davis:
Fixed my own problem...Blower and temp probes should be separate. I went to Radio Shack and bought the material to make a new patch cord just for the blower and now everything is ok.

Kenny
Click to expand...

Can you (or anyone for that matter) post up the Radio Shack part #s necessary to create your own cable? I have 4 of the 25' extensions, but I don't like having the connections for each cable laying on the ground (smoker is 100' from the house so 4 cables gets to be expensive). I'd rather have a single solid cable -- actually 2 cables so I can have the fan on it's own cable.

Thanks. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

These are low voltage devices and running a long cable for low voltage devices is not a good idea. you are much better off running a long extension cord out there and weather protecting the Stoker. If the motor runs on low voltage too long, it will burn out, you can count on it. If you insist on doing it, at least check the voltage under a load with a regular cable, then with the extension cable. If the voltage drops more than 10%, you are asking for problems.
 
Steve, First off let me say I'm fairly new to the Stoker so I am by no means an expert, today's brisket is my 5th cook with the Stoker. I'm curious, have you thought about forgoing the extension cables and setting your Stoker up to work with a wireless bridge and your router? I took the advice of others here and bought a plastic tub to protect the electronics from the elements (if smoking in bad weather), cut holes on two sides to feed power and the stoker cables through and I put my Stoker, wireless bridge and power strip inside the tub.

Knock-on-wood, to date I've had very good luck connecting via my wireless bridge.

Just a thought.
 
Okay guys, you have talked me into this wireless bridge setup (also the wife likes the idea so cables don't have to be run out the back door).

So, what do I need to make this work?

My router in the house is a Linksys Wireless-B 2.4 Ghz Broadband Router. What sort of wireless bridge do I need?

Many thanks (from me and my wife)
icon_smile.gif


Could I use the Linksys router I have now? I've thought about getting a faster router for in the house to help speed up the wireless connection to the laptop.
 
Most of the Linksys routers can only be used as routers. You'll have to check your manual or on-line to see what yours can do. Look for wireless bridge, or repeater. I would look for one of those buffalo devices mentioned on this post. Just do a search, the model numbers are there to make it easier to find. You can purchase them on e-bay for a song and they are quit easy to setup. Depending on where you wireless router is located, you can count on about 100' range. Once setup, you never have to worry with it again.
 
Steve, I owned the router you list and it should work with a wireless bridge. I picked up a Linksys WET11 Wireless Ethernet Bridge for my setup on eBay for $32 (including shipping). It's B speed but for this application it's more than enough and this is all I use it for. For me it's worked like a champ with my Linksys WRT54G wireless router (G version of your unit). However, I do want to point out that someone else on this board had issues with this unit and I believe he ended up throwing it out.

I picked up a 10 foot ext. cord, a power strip and a garment tub from Wal-mart and I'm set. Here's a PICTURE of my setup. Tip, don't try and cut your holes with a knife, use one of those drill bit things.

Once I figured out what the hell I was doing setting up the bridge on my network took less than 5 minutes. My unit didn't come with an install disk so I had to configure it manually which I didn't really understand. Once I realized that I couldn't assign my computer the same IP address as the bridge and expect to access the bridge it was a snap (DOH!). If you do buy a used unit that doesn't come with an install disk I'm sure others here (including myself) would be happy to walk you through how to set it up.

Good luck!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

 

Back
Top