Stocks, broths, demi-glaces...Help!


 
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A.D.Letson

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Could someone please lay out a straight forward definition of stocks and broths? And what exactly is a demi-glace? I have looked online but I get bunches of different answers. I am wanting to make homemade chicken stock at home as well, so any recipes (are there different recipes?) would be appreciated.
 
A stock must have bones in the mix, a broth does not. In other words, a chicken or beef stock would start with bones or meaty bones, vegetables, aromatics, water, and optional other items like spices and wine. The cooked result is strained.

A broth would be the same but with meat only--no bones.

'Vegetable stock' is a misnomer but one commonly seen. (I use it myself. There is something odd about saying 'vegetable broth'.)

Stocks are usually richer in flavor and in mouthfeel because of the gelatin the bones release.

Demi-glace is made by combining sauce espagnole, a long-cooked sauce base made from a dark roux, veal stock, browned vegs, meats, seasonings, with either more veal stock or with beef stock and then reducing by half.

One often hears or sees 'demi' used in such constructions as '...finished with a mushroom demi...', and '...a blackberry-thyme demi...', and the like. Sometimes the speaker/writer means e.g., mushrooms sauteed and combined with demi-glace and, perhaps, pureed, but often what is actually being referenced is a reduction. 'Demi' seems to have come to mean a reduction, but this should at least be restricted to uses where a primary ingredient is meat stock or a stock reduction.

Give me a bit and I will post a recipe for chicken stock (I'm being called to make breakfast!). There are simple variations one can use or utilize but the process is straightforward.
 
1 (3 1/2- to 4 1/2-lb) whole chicken, cut into 8 pieces
2 celery ribs, chopped coarsely
2 carrots, chopped coarsely
2 medium onions, unpeeled, root-end trimmed;halved
6 fresh parsley stems without leaves, or 2-3 with leaves
1 bay leaf
tiny sprig thyme (optional)
6 whole black peppercorns
4 whole white peppercorns
pinch salt
4 qt cold water


Bring all ingredients to a boil in an 8- to 10-quart pot and skim foam. Reduce heat and simmer gently, uncovered, skimming foam occasionally, 3-4 hours.

Remove the chicken, then pour stock through a sieve into a large bowl and discard solids. (Taste and add a pinch or two more salt but don't make it enough salt--you want to be able to reduce it further, if needed, and not have it end up too salty.) Skim fat, if desired, or cool then chill, covered, and remove any solidified fat from the top of the bowl.

The chicken can be roasted first or par-roasted first for roasted chicken stock.

The vegs can be roasted with the chicken.

The chicken and/or vegs can be browned in fat first.

Cheap chicken parts can be used exclusively or in combination with other parts--necks and wings, e.g. I use necks, wings and a few thighs and toss them with the carrots, celery, onion and a little oil, and roast in a very hot oven, adding a splash of water here and there so that the fond does not burn. I roast till I get some good color but not anywhere near done. I deglaze with a little white wine and water then dump all into a stockpot, add the parsley, peppercorns, bay, plus a small thyme sprig, and go from there.
 
Kevin,

From the "times" listed on your posts, you were gone for breakfast fo 1 hour and 26 minutes. Did you fix something special?

Hope all is well with you.

Ray
 
All is well.

Nope, nothing special. Low/slow scrambled eggs with Aleppo, no-nitrate applewood-smoked thick bacon also cooked slow and whole-grain toast with Plu-gra butter. But I spent a little time putting away pots (and re-organizing) from last night's dinner of crab cakes atop pappardelle tossed with sauteed corn kernels, shallots, shrimp stock, wine, ajis amarillos, lemon, parsley, basil and chucks of fresh tomatoes. That was special--but I should have made a drizzle for the cakes; perhaps a basil oil or something based on the ajis. (No breadcrumbs in or on the crabcakes, btw, but cooking in a 70/30 butter:evoo mix worked well.)
 
Thanks for the explanation and the recipe Kevin. I just bought the Calphalon stock pot that was talked about in Just Conversation so when it comes in I am going to make some stock.

I was also going to say that I appreciate your recommendation of scrambling eggs slowly (saw it in some other posts you made). It yields a much better taste and texture. Also, you say to cook bacon slowly. How do you do it and why? I love bacon so any new techs are great.
 
I love the creaminess of slow-cooked scrambled eggs. I whisk them just till barely combined and toss in several shards of cold unsalted butter. Stirred and lifted gently as they start to set and gently thereafter as setting of the uncooked portions starts yields very creamy eggs with excellent volume.

Bacon I lay out in a large pan and then heat at med-low. When the bottoms get a bit colored I flip the first time (I do not move them at all till then). When that side colors I flip and then flip somewhat more frequently thereafter till they are just done. Drained on and patted with paper towels they crisp as they cool a bit. I prefer slow-cooked bacon because there is less shrinkage, less curling and, if there is sugar in the cure, less over-browning and reduced potential for burning.
 
Ok I've made the stock (was a lot of fun)...now what? lol I am looking for a good soup recipe that I can use my stock in...a good hearty soup that warms you up on the cool days we are starting to have now. Any places to start?
 
Oh and one more thing...how long does this stuff last in fridge or freezer? And how is the best way to freeze? I know I have seen tips around but can't remember where.
 
The stock will last a week or a bit more in the fridge; the flavor is best preserved if you freeze.

I usually freeze at least some of the stock in ice cube trays: Measure 2 T into one ice cube spot, eyeball the level, the pour the stock into the other spots to approximately the same level as the first one. Repeat with other trays if you wish, freeze, then remove the cubes to a Ziploc and return to the freezer. 8 cubes = 1 cup. Alternatively, measure quarter-cup or half-cup amounts into small food storage containers, freeze and leave as is, or remove the frozen stock and store together in a Ziploc.

I have made the following soup for over thirty years, in numerous restaurants and private homes, for family and close friends and for strangers. It's one of the most requested soups I make and a favorite of mine--so I always agree to make it. It is very easy to put together and takes little time. At home or at friend's, I like to serve the soup in warmed coffee mugs. It is thin so it can be sipped from the mug easily, perhaps al fresco on the deck while enjoying a fino sherry or a glass of wine and the coolness of the day, but just hearty and substantial enough to be warming.

This soup highlights a freshly made stock very well but can be made with quality store-bought stock as well.


GARLIC SOUP
Can be doubled, tripled, quadrupled

12 cloves garlic, peeled and minced or pressed through a press
1/4-1/3 large bunch parsley, leaves only, minced
1 Tbl minced fresh rosemary, do not use dried
2 tsp minced fresh thyme, or 1 tsp dried
1/2 stick unsalted butter
6 cups homemade chicken stock, or low-sodium store-bought stock
1 large russet potato, peeled and diced
3/4 cup heavy cream
salt and freshly ground pepper


freshly grated parmesan or asiago cheese


Melt butter over low heat in a heavy pot. Add garlic and reduce heat to very low. Cook, stirring frequently, at no more than a faint sizzle, 10 min. Add parsley and continue cooking until the garlic is soft and sweet, about 10 min or more. Do not let the garlic brown. Move the pot off the flame a bit if your stove's low flame runs on the hot side and stir frequently. Take your time. Garlic, cooked slowly and not allowed to brown, will sweeten nicely.

Add the stock, thyme, and rosemary and bring to a boil. Add the potato; return to a boil then reduce heat, cover, and simmer until the potato is very tender, about 15-20 minutes. Remove from heat and purée in a blender or with immersion stick till smooth. (At this point, can cool, cover, and refrigerate. Continue with recipe just before serving.)

Return soup to medium heat; stir in cream and bring to barely a simmer—do not boil. Adjust salt and add freshly ground pepper to taste. Serve with a dusting of grated cheese.
 
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