Mahlab recipe - Ka'ake or Roscas (Syrian-Style Cracker Rings)


 

Rita Y

TVWBB Emerald Member
Kevin, I've been reading your rib rub and cherry BBQ sauce posts and see that you enjoy using mahlab. I first came across it while testing recipes for Maggie Glezer's latest book and really liked what it contributed to the flavor of the ka'ake. They are great with drinks and received a "10" rating at our house.

I tried sending this to you at your iname address but it didn't work for me, so I'll post it here. I have the recipe properly formatted in a Word document; if you'd like it, email me.

Rita
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KA'AKE or ROSCAS (Syrian-Style Cracker Rings)

Makes 16 cracker rings. These crunchy, dry cracker rings can be found in many permutations in Middle Eastern communities. Usually served as a salty snack or with coffee or tea, the rings — ka‘ake (pronounced “ka-ah-keh”) in Arabic and roscas (pronounced “ros-kas”) in Spanish — are also related to bageleh (see page 249).
Most recipes use a variety of spices in the dough, such as cumin and coriander seed, anise, and mahlab (sour cherry kernels), which contribute a subtle nuttiness (find mahlab in Middle Eastern and Greek groceries; see Sources, page 326, for mail-order Information). I prefer the Syrian-style spicing, which lets the anise shine, as in the following recipe, adapted from a recipe in Grace Sasson’s Kosher Syrian Cooking and from Bella Rosenthal, whose Syrian family is a pillar of Mexico City’s large and vibrant Syrian Jewish community.
The crackers can be shaped into simple rounds, but the twisted-rope shapes described here are more ornate. I have cut down the recipe yield considerably from the original versions; it can just as easily be enlarged.

Skill level: Beginner
Time required: About 4 hours
Recipe synopsis: Make a yeast slurry, then add the remaining ingredients and mix the dough. Let the dough rise for 1 to 3 hours. Divide the dough, roll it out, and shape the crackers. Dip the crackers in beaten egg and sesame seeds and let proof for about 1 hour. Bake for about 30 minutes.

1 teaspoon (3 grams/0.1 ounce) instant yeast
2 cups (270 grams/9.5 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour
2/3 cup (150 grams/5.3 ounces) warm water
1 teaspoon (5 ml) anise seeds
1 teaspoon (5 ml) mahlab (sour cherry kernels; optional)
1/4 cup (55 grams/1.9 ounces) vegetable oil
1 teaspoon (5 grams/0.2 ounce) table salt (I tested with 6 grams salt and liked it that way)
1 egg for glazing
Sesame seeds for coating the rings

MIXING THE YEAST SLURRY In a medium bowl, whisk together the yeast and 2/3 cup (90 grams/3.2 ounces) of the flour, then whisk in the warm water until smooth. Let the slurry stand uncovered for 10 to 20 minutes, or until it begins to ferment (it may not puff up at all).

ROASTING AND GRINDING THE SPICES While the slurry is fermenting, heat a small skillet over medium heat. Add the anise and mahlab and toast until lightly browned, crackling, and fragrant. Pour the spices into a mortar and pestle or spice grinder and pulverize them into a fine powder.

MIXING THE DOUGH Whisk the ground spices, oil, and salt into the slurry. With your hands or a wooden spoon, stir in the remaining 1 1/3 cups (180 grams/6 ounces) flour all at once. When the mixture is a shaggy ball, scrape it out onto your work surface and knead until the dough is very smooth, about 5 minutes. (Soak your mixing bowl in hot water now to clean it and warm it for fermenting the dough.) If the dough is too firm to knead easily, add a tablespoon or two of water to it; if it seems too wet, add a few tablespoons of flour.

The dough should be smooth, soft, easy to knead, and not at all sticky.

FERMENTING THE DOUGH Place the dough in the warmed clean bowl and cover it with plastic wrap. (Or, the dough can be refrigerated right after kneading, then removed from the refrigerator up to 24 hours later to finish fermenting.) Let the dough ferment until it has at least doubled in bulk, about 2 hours, depending on the temperature in your kitchen. (If it has been refrigerated, the dough may take an extra 30 to 60 minutes of fermentation).

DIVIDING, SHAPING, AND GARNISHING THE DOUGH Line two baking sheets with parchment paper or oil them. Lightly flour a work surface; have more flour available. Lightly beat the egg in a shallow bowl. Put the sesame seeds in another bowl.

FOR SIMPLE RINGS Roll the dough into a long strand and cut it into sixteen equal pieces. Roll each piece into a thick strand about 10 inches (25 cm) long. Pull the ends around to form a ring and pinch them to seal the ring.

FOR TWISTED RINGS Divide the dough in half. Roll each piece into a long strand and cut it into sixteen equal pieces (I do this by dividing it in half, and then rolling each half into a longer strand and dividing it into quarters and each quarter into four, repeating with the other strand). Roll each piece into a thin strand about 12 inches (30.5 cm) long. Twist two strands together, then pull the ends around to form a ring and pinch them to seal the ring.

Dip the tops of the shaped rings in the egg, then in the sesame seeds, and arrange them seed side up on the baking sheets, leaving a little space in between to allow room for expansion.

PROOFING THE DOUGH Let the rings ferment for about 1 hour, or until they have puffed up and are soft.
Meanwhile, 30 minutes before baking, arrange the oven racks in the upper and lower third positions and preheat the oven to 325°F (160°C/gas mark 3).

BAKING THE RINGS When the rings have tripled and do not push back when gently pressed with your finger but remain indented, they are ready to bake. Bake for about 30 minutes, or until well browned and very hard and dry. After about the first 20 minutes, move the baking sheets from top to bottom and front to back so the rings brown evenly. When the rings are done, turn off the oven and let them cool in the turned-off oven to fully dry them. Store them in an airtight container.

RECIPE NOTES:
• Some recipes also include whole roasted and ground cumin and coriander seed, which you could add at the same proportion as the other spices.
• From my testing notes: The mahlab gives the ka’ake a whole additional dimension of flavor, a haunting flavor really. Makes you want to go back for another bite to see if you can define it. I definitely think it’s worth sending for the mahlab. (I tried to find it at the Middle Eastern store in Sandy Springs but they had no idea what I was talking about.)
 

 

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