Drunken Beans (Frijoles Borrachos)

I make one version or another of these often as we're not fans of sweet beans.

Beans aren't soaked in Mexico and I rarely soak beans either. You can shorten the cooking time a bit if you do; I just put them on while I'm doing other things.

These are good with roasted meats, smoked brisket, tri-tip--or just by themselves with hot corn tortillas on the side.



1 lb pinto beans, picked over to remove any small stones

1 1-1.5inch-wide piece of slab bacon, rind removed and reserved, remaining bacon sliced thickly into 5-6 slices then diced; or 8 thick slices bacon, 3 left whole, 5 diced; or 2 slices bacon plus 1 5-6-inch piece of smoked sausage like andouille or kielbasa, sliced lengthwise into quarters then sliced into 1/4-inch pieces

2 med onions, diced

3-5 cloves garlic, minced

salt

1 bottle dark beer

oil or lard

3 ripe tomatoes, peeled if desired (peeling is optional; I peel), chopped or 2 cans diced tomatoes in juice, drained

3-5 serranos or jalapeños (depending on your taste in heat) or a mix (ripe ones are most desireable here, imo, but hard to find so green are fine), stemmed, seeded, and min ced

2 t dried Mexican oregano

2 T finely chopped cilantro, leaves only


chopped cilantro, for serving (optional)

chopped onion, for serving (optional)

minced pickled jalapeños, for serving (optional)



Put the beans, bacon rind (or the 3 slices of bacon or the 2 if using the sausage), the onion, and the garlic in a large pot with water to cover by 2 inches. Bring to a boil over high heat then cover and reduce the heat to med/med-low and gently cook till the beans are tender. Usually this takes about 90 min but can be longer if the beans are very dry. (Check the beans periodically; add water if it falls below the surface of the beans but just add enough to barely cover at that point.)

Add a little salt to the pot--be sparing as the meat contain salt and, if using canned, so do the tomatoes. Add the beer and cook, uncovered, stirring periodically, 15 min. Remove the bacon rind or slices and discard.

Meanwhile, heat a med saute pan over med heat and add a little oil or lard (1-2 T is fine). Cook the diced bacon or sausage in the pan till browned then removed with a slotted spoon; add to the beans. To the pan add the tomatoes, oregano, chilies, and cilantro, increase the heat to high and cook, stirring, till a bit thickened--about 5 min. Add the contents of the pan to the beans. Stir well. Cook 10-15 min, adjust salt. If desired, alter the consistency by mashing the beans with a potato masher a bit (I do this).

Serve, topped with minced cilantro, onion and pickled jal, if desired, or place the toppings in bowls for the table.

Kevin made these at my house, and man, they were the best beans we've ever had. The artisan andouille he brought was the key, but any other good quality smoked sausage would do the trick. We fast 'soaked' them.

I make my beans almost exactly like this and everyone really likes them. We like them on the brothy side. The sausage variation is something I'll have to try the next time - sounds great.

One difference is that I add 1 1/2 teaspoons dried epazote to the beans as they are in the first stage of cooking.

Rita

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by K Kruger:
Bring to a boil over high heat then cover and reduce the heat to med/med-low and gently cook till the beans are tender. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I make beans very similar to the recipe above. Although I'm sure you already know it, Kevin, a great way of keeping a nice steady simmer is to do it all in a oven-proof cast iron pot and just stick the whole mess in the oven at about 300 or 325. Maintains the most perfect simmer ever.

My only question: Where is the smoked ham hock? You can't have beans without a smoked ham hock!

Somehow I missed this recipe when first posted. This takes beans to a new level and direction I have never tried. Looks great.

Question: others claim that soaking overnight and disposing of the water gets rid of 85% of the gas. What of it?

The andouille that Kevin brought from LA was the smoke content in these beans. Trust me, it was a much more superior flavor than ham hock.

Phil--

The only beans I've ever done in the oven are baked beans and since they're not high on my bean list it's been a long time. You're right, of course, that a slow simmer can be maintained easily in an oven but I cannot bring myself to hide them there where they might feel lonely and unloved. I keep them front and center where I can stir and taste frequently.

Funny that you mention hocks...I was writing a recipe last night for an Ethiopian collard dish which is a common side in their cuisine. It's a simple dish that combines the greens with dry-curd cottage cheese but no meat. It's delicious but while writing the recipe--and every time I make it--I think of smoked hocks. They really wouldn't work in the dish but they go in nearly every other collard treatment I do and it always feels strange to be tearing up collard leaves and not have the hocks simmering in a pot while doing so.

Steve--

Several beans contain carbohydrates that are not digestible in the upper intestine. These carbohydrates move on down to the lower intestine where the bacteria there start to do their thing and this causes the problem.

A way to get rid of much of these carbohydrates is to soak the beans for an hour or two, boil the beans in excess water briefly, then drain and cook in fresh water. This also, unfortunately, removes much water-soluble vitamins, some of the coloring pigments, and some of the carbs that do not cause the problem but are part of the flavor of the beans. It works but there is a price to pay. The alternative is to cook the beans longer. Prolonged cooking eventually breaks down much of the carbs responsible into digestible simple sugars.

Jane--

If my fridge wasn't on the fritz I'd be stopping for more. Such good stuff.

I cooked this a few weeks ago to accompany some tri tip. Absolutely fantastic recipe. I got some great butcher made andouille, home grown tomatoes, and some guinness...excellent!

Made this tonight using Rio Zape beans (a meaty mottled red bean) from Rancho Gordo. Highly recommended.

I'm going to be making these this weekend and I have a few questions. Can I make these in the crock pot? Will one batch be enough to serve 10 people as a side dish? Getting hungry just thinking about it.

Yes. The yield should be just enough to serve ~ 10 as a side. Increase by 50% if you want generous servings.

You could probably use a CrockPot. Watch the water level during the initial cooking stage. I'd recommend still browning the bacon separately and cooking/reducing the tomato-chile mix before adding as well.

Kevin- made these beans for the first time last night, and I must say they are amazing! The kind that when they cool down, and time to put them in tupperware, I am eating more than is going in the tupperware!

Thanks. I'm glad you like them. I mage them myself last Wed night. It had been a little while.

Looks great, will definitely try this recipe. Are those your collard greens in the background or what? They also look great. Recipe??

Those are kale greens - but you can use any you wish.

For stronger flavored greens, if you wish, blanch first for several minutes in a large quantity of boiling water first, then continue as below (I did not blanch these first as they were young):

Generously salt three inches of water in a large pot and add a couple thick slices of bacon. Bring to a boil and add the greens (I usually cook 1.5-2 lbs at a time), a couple or three lightly smashed cloves of garlic (or a couple or three teaspoons of granulated) and a halved onion (or a couple or three teaspoons of granulated).

Cook at a strong simmer till tender (do not cover the pot), stirring often in the beginning till the greens wilt well into the water, then occasionally thereafter, till the greens are tender. Lift from the pot liquor (and drain or not, as you wish); serve.

Kevin...LOVED the beans!!! As did my entire family, and I'm talking in-laws, nieces, kids, and wife! My wife's family, including her, are all originally from Afghanistan, so it takes some heat and some serious spices to get them excited about a dish, but these beans definitely did the trick! I used 3 serranos and the heat was just about perfect. The only thing I would do different would be to use Guinness instead of the Oatmeal Stout I used. All in all though, wouldn't change a thing.

And now for lunch today I'm eating the leftover beans mixed with some homemade Jumbalaya I made last night. Well, I used the Zatarain's mix, but doctored it up with Andouille sausage (which I had also used in your beans), a red jalapeno, onions, and red bell pepper.

The two dishes make a fine pairing!!!

Thanks for the recipe for greens. I'm a fan and don't have a trusty recipe/guide to use.

Lastly...could you share a cornbread recipe? I tried the one from the Cooking Topics of this board and it didn't turn out properly for me. Your cornbread looks great so I'd like to give it a shot, if you dont' mind.

Thanks!!!!

Sure. Glad you like the beans.


[Just FYI - next time I'm in SD I'm finding you. I want to meet your wife and her family. Love Afghan cuisine. I cook it often.]
************


This style is better baked in a 9x9x2 pan rather than a CI skillet, imo, though that can work.



1 c stone-ground yellow cornmeal

1 c unbleached all-purpose flour

2 tsp baking powder

.5 tsp baking soda

.75 tsp fine sea salt

1.5 tbls sugar

2 eggs

2/3 c buttermilk

2/3 c whole milk

2 tbls unsalted butter, melted, plus more butter for greasing the pan

Optional:

1 c (or so) sharp cheddar cheese, grated - or use Parrano, Majon, or a combo of them; or 3/4 c of any of those alone or in combo plus 1/4 c crumbles goat cheese

2 tbls-1/2 cup minced fresh or pickled jalapeños, or a combo of both, quantity depending on your taste (if using pickled place in paper towel and squeeze out a little excess moisture)


Grease the 9x9x2 pan with unsalted butter. Make sure an oven rack in at center and heat the oven to 425.

Mix cornmeal, flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and sugar in large bowl using a whisk.

Crack eggs into a medium bowl and whisk to combine whites and yolks fairly well. Add buttermilk and milk and whisk to combine with the eggs. Add the egg mix to the dry ingredients, stirring as you go but be rather quick about it. Stir til almost combine then add the melted butter and stir till all ingredients are just combined. If using, fold in cheese and/or jalapeños.

Pour batter into greased pan. Bake until top is golden brown, lightly cracked and the edges have pulled away from side of pan, about 25 min.

Cool the pan on a rack for 5 to 10 min. Cut cornbread into squares and serve.

Thanks Kevin, appreciate it. I'm a huge fan of cornbread but have never been able to make a version that I myself like.

Stop by anytime for some Afghan cuisine! My wife isn't the greatest at it (shhh, no telling), but her mom, yummy. Her parents owned a restaurant in Afghanistan back in the day.

Thanks!

Flying in tomorrow to go to a film fest in Pasadena for a week. A music vid I co-produced was selected for screening. If I had the time I'd drop down to SD. But I do get there a few times a year!

Kevin-Do you have a preferred dark beer for this recipe? Just curious,
Dennis