Problem with HM v.4


 
J

Jon Comstock

New member
Must start of by say thanks to Bryan and every one else for all the hard work put in to this wonder full tool!!

I have been playing around with this for a lil bit the last few day with out any problems and all of a sudden last night after it being on for bout 2 mins this screen pop up.

3df2c105-2fce-40be-8a2c-3833b55a6e5b_zps5ea7c7a5.jpg


about a min later or so it changed to this.

eb9d4866-fe80-4865-a58f-bbe5f630710f_zps4ccfb505.jpg


Any one have an idea what is wrong??? i cant see any cold solder joints or jumps any where.

Thanks for the help in advance.
 
If it's not in an enclosure, you might have given it a static electric shock.

Have you tried to re-flash the controller?
 
I would check your connections to the LCD and the latch (IC3). It looks like you may have a bad solder joint there that could have worked initially.

dave
 
D Peart said:
I would check your connections to the LCD and the latch (IC3). It looks like you may have a bad solder joint there that could have worked initially.

dave
Click to expand...

I retouched them once b4 but did it again tonight for the heck of it. still no help...

so i let it run awhile the gibberish characters cleared up

and now it also now jumping between open lid and pit temp or it starts to cycle thru the menu and changing the different values on the different menu pages... :confused:
 
Ok so I flashed the SD card for the 4 time rebooted it via the 192.168.200.1 network.

All seems to be working good for now. not sure what happen or what i fixed lol
 
You've got a bad solder joint or power problem or short somewhere in your board. Anything you do with the SD card isn't going to fix that because the button and the LCD are completely disconnected from the software that runs from the card.

Unfortunately, I can't say where the problem is because you're just seeing a symptom of the problem. The LCD can go bonkers if one of its pins grounds causing garbage data, or if the power level drops low enough for it to switch out of 4 bit mode back to the default 8 bit. The button is analog so that's more straight forward but it can be caused by a bad reference voltage coming from the 3.3V power line, like some sort of power dip (which can be caused by a short), or one of the lines floating.

Sorry I can't be more help but it doesn't appear to be a "oh you hooked X up backward" or "the solder joint on your Y must be cold" sort of problem.
 
Been a busy morning sry i couldn't respond sooner. I thank i got it fixed. After i retouched the joints again last night It ran all night and none of the settings we changed in the morning. i was still running till a min ago when the baby ran his shopping cart over the surge protector and turn it off lol!! I will update in a few hours. Thanks for all the help you guys!! :):)
 
Ok got some more time to mess with my problem and don't seem to have a issue with the button problem any more but the lcd is now just showing the white boxes. However the unit itself seems to be operating normally. Curious if the shift registers could of been fried if i put to much heat to it while i was re-soldering the joints?
 
Hey,
I have not exactly the same problem but it could be similar to it.
I have now assembled my HM V4 standalone and flashed the ATMega with USBTiny and avrdude.
Everything seems to work fine but I can´t see anything on the LCD. When I´m pushing the button I can also see that the backlight is going on and off. The LED1 is also blinking twice when I´m starting the HM. So I Think it is working but the LCD is blank. By adjusting the trimmer I can choose between black squares and nothing. I also checked the connections at IC3 and the LCD and they should be ok.
The thing is that the LCD never worked until now. So I think my problem is another one.
Does anyone have an idea what it could be?
Or some tips what voltage has to be at some pins so I can check if my LCD is the problem?
 
Did you flash the heatermeter.hexA by mistake? If you used the right hex file, that's all I've got. I can't tell from the datasheet anything besides a basic "it possibly could work" as the pinout and votages are the same. I'm not sure about the timings though. If the timings were wrong I'd expect it would just have garbage (my experience).
 
I connected it with a wire because of the single row. So that is not the problem. I used the same display at my HM V3.2 and it was working. So I thought it should work with the 4.0 too. Ist this right?
 
As long as the part number is correct, the manufacturer doesn't matter. Did you verify that you did not use the heatermeter.hexA firmware as Bryan suggested?
 
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